Omicron does not do the business of the Galette des Rois.
Cooled by the spread of the virus, the French celebrated the Epiphany much less than before the health crisis.
According to the Gospel of Saint Matthew, the presentation of Jesus to the Magi took place 12 days after his birth, that is to say on January 6th.
But you can now find the galette on the shelves and in some bakeries, from November.
And this until the end of January.
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"We can't wait for this season to end,"
says Stéphane Louvard, Parisian baker and restaurateur known for his frangipane pancakes, among the best in Ile-de-France.
In his shop in the 9th arrondissement – a business district in lack of frequentation because of teleworking – the atmosphere is not to draw the kings.
“Since the introduction of paid tests for the non-vaccinated, the customers are not there”,
deplores the craftsman.
Thursday, January 6, the day of Epiphany, he only sold a third of the 1000 cakes he normally sells on D-Day.
Cancellations
Between an unfavorable calendar (the first Sunday of January falling on the 2nd, the French were reluctant to chain a hearty delicacy the day after New Year's Eve) and health restrictions limiting galettes in communities (companies, associations, friends, etc.), sales galettes in France, have fallen sharply this year.
"Because of the cancellation of vows in companies, we can estimate that it sold 10 to 15% less than two years ago
"
,
advances Dominique Anract.
The president of the National Confederation of French Bakery-Pastry, also owner of several Parisian bakeries, saw two cakes for a hundred people canceled, out of the three that had been ordered from him.
Because of the imposed gauges, his clients from La Défense, Les Halles and other office districts in Paris had to give up their ceremonies.
At System U, as many cakes were sold as last year, which had already been disrupted by the Covid.
"Honourable, given the context,"
said the brand's spokesperson.
Read alsoGalettes des rois, croissants, pain au chocolat... Why prices will increase
Soaring butter prices
Nearly 50% of the 30 million cakes sold each year (before Covid) are purchased from artisans, according to the Federation of Bakery Manufacturers.
The rest being sold for a third in supermarkets and for 20% homemade.
It is still too early to establish a definitive assessment.
Last year, it was less bad than expected: the few orders from companies had almost compensated by the cakes between friends and at home.
“Instead of making one big one, people had made two or three in smaller groups,”
recalls Dominique Anract.
This is less the case this year.
For professionals (bakers, supermarkets, etc.), the disappointment is all the greater since the galette is one of the cakes guaranteeing them their best margins.
This year, they are doubly losing: in addition to selling less, soaring butter prices are weighing on profitability like never before.
