If there was an expected parade for this week of Milanese men's fashion, it is that of JW Anderson. The Northern Irish designer, who is also artistic director of Loewe, left the Paris calendar, where he had previously shown his collections, to join that of the Lombard capital. But Omicron obliges, it's digital (once again) that this collection was revealed this Sunday. To the chagrin of the press present on site, who were enthusiastic about the idea of seeing Jonathan Anderson make his debut on the Milan scene. “
To be completely honest, the decision to parade or not was beyond my control,
explains the creator via Zoom.
The health situation made it impossible to hold the event as we had thought.
Right now, and for two years, I feel incredibly creative.
As long as I manage to have a creative vision, everything is fine!
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His creativity of the moment plays on the mixture of genres, playing with the archetypes of male clothing, such as the polo shirt, transforming them, for example into dresses worn by men. Coats fitting the size of boys and wrapped in poetic rounded shapes are appealing. All with a lot of audacity, showing a lot of skin, like on these cut-out sweaters, displaying huge knots that display the torso. "
The sight of the skin is a very modern notion, in my opinion,"
he smiles.
I've always been a bit obsessed with the way you cut the garment, where you show the flesh. I think there's something about this collection that takes me back to when I started thinking about how to carve out the idea of masculinity and femininity in the body. At JW Anderson, we have really embraced and embraced the idea of shared wardrobes between boys and girls.
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But as surprising as it may seem, the primary inspiration for this collection came from... Cristiano Ronaldo.
The footballer, who plays in England, is, for Anderson, a “
symbol of hyper-masculinity which, as such, fascinates me.
For me, the spectacle of football is fascinating, like a kind of performance, almost dancing if you take the ball away from them.
I wanted to reinforce this idea, by making sports outfits covered in sequins... A bit like if
Strictly Come Dancing (
Dancing with the British Stars
, editor's note),
met Cristiano Ronaldo.
" And why not?
