Dining cellar
• THE STOLEN GLASS
Twenty years later, a generation later, the lair still appears as the model of a genre that he largely contributed to installing, namely the now famous dining cellar.
And to find between the tourists (well, what's left of it) and the ailments (they are still present), this bric-a-brac in the room where the bottles, if they adorn the walls, are far from being decorative.
A defense and illustration of the living vine and the libertarian label to which the small dishes of the day offer what is needed in relief.
An appetite from the corner of the table that continues to emerge from a tiny kitchen.
Need we also remember that odors (book the laundry) are now part of the banter of the place?
FOR WHEN?
Sunday night to heal the blues.
THE DISH YOU CAN'T MISS OUT.
The other lunchtime, an alluring puff pastry with ham on the bone.
67, rue de Lancry (10th). Tel.: 01 48 03 17 34. Daily. Menus at €19 and €21 (weekday lunch), à la carte approx. €30. Metro: Jacques-Bonsergent.
Le Verre Volé restaurant.
Sebastien SORIANO/Le Figaro
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Author table
• CHEWED UP
Chew: is said…
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