It is one of the star anti-aging active ingredients.
As proof, it is the most searched for face care ingredient of the year 2021 on Google in France, according to a study by the SkinHero(1) site (a platform bringing together the research of beauty and health experts .) For a long time, this derivative of vitamin A belonging to the family of retinoids has been particularly renowned in the cosmetics industry for slowing down the signs of skin aging (such as wrinkles, spots, loss of firmness or complexion). dull).
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So why is he suddenly back in the spotlight?
“Because research and innovation have worked hard to make its application easier and to improve its tolerance,” explains Dr. Marie Jourdan, dermatologist in Paris.
Although it suffered for a while from its high concentration and its powerful effects that can irritate the most sensitive skin, it is coming back to the market with new improved formulas that have every interest in entering our beauty routine.
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A multifunctional treatment
“Retinol accelerates cell renewal.
It tightens pores, refines skin texture and restores radiance,” explains the dermatologist.
“It is interesting to use it from the age of 35, when you start to have small wrinkles.
As it helps the skin to renew itself in depth, it boosts the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid.
It is even effective against age spots: “In addition to targeted care, retinol helps eliminate spots caused by the sun,” confirms Dr. Jourdan.
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The expert warns about the level of retinol concentration in products which can prove to be aggressive on sensitive skin (the European Cosmetics Regulation authorizes its use in leave-on cosmetics at a maximum percentage of 0.3%).
Hence the importance of spacing out the applications.
A gradual application
“At first, all skin types should apply it sparingly, once a week in the evening on clean, dry skin, avoiding the eye area.
Then, gradually we can go to once every three days, then every two days.
Some skins will be able to tolerate it every night, while others won't.
You have to adapt the frequency to your skin type", recommends the dermatologist, specifying that "the use of retinol is recommended in the evening, because it refines the texture of the skin and therefore makes it more sensitive to the sun", which would risk to cause damage during the day without SPF protection.
Cream or serum version, everyone has to find the formula and the sensoriality that corresponds to it, only the galenic is different.
Our pick of the best anti-aging retinol facials
Our pick of the best retinol-based anti-aging facials - Patyka Pro-Collagen Lift Mask
Lift Pro-Collagen face mask with vegetable Retinol-like extract from Vigna Aconitifolia, Patyka, €72.90.
For sale on www.eu.patyka.com
Patyka
Our selection of the best retinol-based anti-aging facials - Retinol B3 from La Roche-Posay
Retinol B3 serum, La Roche-Posay, €35.
On sale in pharmacies and parapharmacies.
La Roche Posay
Our Pick of the Best Anti-Aging Retinol Facials - Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream
A-Passioni retinol cream, Drunk Elephant, €71.
On sale at Sephora and on www.sephora.fr.
Drunk Elephant
Our pick of the best anti-aging retinol facials - Noble Panacea Intense Renewal Serum
Intense renovating serum based on retinol, Noble Panacea, €436.
On sale at Bon Marché in Paris and on www.noblepanacea.eu.
Noble Panacea
Our pick of the best anti-aging retinol facials - Retinol 0.2% in Squalane by The Ordinary
Our Pick of the Best Anti-Aging Retinol Facials - 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment Clinical Paula's Choice
Our selection of the best retinol-based anti-aging facials - L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser Night Press-Cream Retinol + Nicinamide
Our Pick of the Best Retinol Anti-Aging Facials - Kiehl's Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Our pick of the best anti-aging retinol facials - Ren's Organic Retinoid Youth Serum
Our selection of the best retinol-based anti-aging facials - Smoothing Care Retinol Correxion Night Serum Capsules by RoC
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The next morning, “the addition of an anti-aging or anti-oxidant active ingredient such as hyaluronic acid or vitamin C will be all the more beneficial.
The treatment will be much better absorbed since there will be no more dead skin on the epidermis thanks to the action of retinol the day before,” adds the dermatologist.
Regulars can even treat themselves to retinol-based peeling sessions in an institute from time to time, whose formulas reserved for professional use contain a higher dosage than in cosmetics and make it possible to restore the skin to new.
Only contraindications: retinol is not recommended for very sensitive skin (which tends to have redness and suffer from erythrosis, rosacea or rosacea) as well as those following anti-acne treatments based on of retinoids.
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The Most Searched Skincare Ingredients Worldwide
study by SkinHero, based on the analysis of data and volume of international searches on Google between October 2020 and October 2021.
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