Reviving a disappeared jewelry house, how does it work?

Raising a great name from the ashes that now belongs to the past is a risky exercise that is well known to the fashion sector, which has sometimes taken the risk in recent decades.

With the key to resounding failures like Vionnet, new attempts (Patou in the lead) or surprising

like Schiaparelli who, under the leadership of the talented Daniel Roseberry, regains his brilliance of yesteryear.

In jewellery, the starting bet and the cards given are on the other hand very different from those found in couture.

If we were to simplify, we could say that jewelry, which has constantly mutated over the past five years to reinvent itself, can be summed up in two strengths, which can also become weaknesses.

On the one hand, the attractiveness and current profitability of a sector in full post-health crisis rebound.

On the other, the saturation of a market where the big names of Place Vendôme reign supreme.

However, it is still possible to carve out your place in the sun.

The solution ?

Weaving a new story in tune with the times.

New shine

High jewelry Ginkgo ring in recycled white gold, white laboratory diamonds and a blue laboratory diamond of 2.26 carats, Vever, price on request.

Information about Vever.com

Vever / Photo press

This

work is precisely the role of the company Luximpact, founded in particular by Frédéric de Narp, ex-Cartier and CEO of Harry Winston, and Coralie de Fontenay, former general manager of Cartier France. Their first mission will have been to guide Camille and Damien Vever, heirs to the star family house of Art Nouveau, to give a new impetus to Vever using only recycled gold and laboratory diamonds. Less than a year after the reboot, the house already displays a clear identity and even offered a remarkable return to the Biennale des Antiquaires last September.

While all eyes are focused on the next stages of development of Vever, Luximpact chooses to start the year by unveiling its next project: relaunch Oscar Massin in all ethics. A major challenge because here there are no heirs around which to center the narrative. The house died out at the beginning of the 19th century, seeing its reputation gradually disappear. We therefore know little about this jeweler to whom we owe the signature of several pieces for the Empress Eugénie in particular. A detail that could prove to be an advantage for Luximpact, which therefore has everything to do.

So little information has leaked on the project for the moment, the artistic direction spotted on the brand's brand new Instagram account seems to point to a repositioning à la Paco Rabanne, between arty and futuristic influences.

But that, only time will tell.

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