48 hours in Lisbon, for its clean air and relaxed lifestyle

Full south but full west, let it be said in the preamble Lisbon is not a Mediterranean.

It is she, in Europe, which first receives depressions from the Atlantic.

It is beaten by the winds, whipped by the waves and copiously watered by the rain.

From this invigorating cocktail – a sort of southern Brittany – is born a singular, dazzling light whose brilliance cannot leave anyone indifferent.

A vibrant light that clicks blindingly on the small white cobblestones lustrous by time of the famous

, the signature of the Portuguese capital.

And even if Lisbon is riddled with trendy vibes that have been shaking it up and messing it up in recent years, it remains resolutely nonchalant.

A tempo that could be called sweetness of life because it annihilates any manifestation of stress.

What is the best season to visit Lisbon?

All!

The city offers an easy and local change of scenery.

Summers are hot and windy (a thermal rises in the afternoon and strengthens throughout the day) with cool evenings.

Spring begins early in February (blooming almond trees, jasmine etc).

Spring and fall can be very rainy.

The winter is mild and wet.

Read alsoFrom the Jerónimos monastery to the castle of Saint George, the unmissable sites of Lisbon

The arrival

The airport is in the city. Built in the 1940s at a time when Lisbon was confined to its historic center, the airport was then outside the capital. Today Lisbon has expanded and the low-lying landing above the roofs makes some passages shudder. Because we literally fly over the capital to the point of being able to count the green spaces and almost spot the rooftops of the first aperitif. The advantage of this thrill of welcome is that in a few tens of minutes (20 to 30) you will have returned to your hotel or Lisbon pied-à-terre. The

gives unlimited access to public transport (metro, tram, bus, elevators, train included to go to Cascais or Sintra) and to museums or historical monuments, i.e. about twenty places.

This sesame exists in version, 24, 48 or 72 hours (20 €, 34 €, 42 €).

You can get it online or in the metro stations (including the one at the airport), at Pal

cio Foz (Praça dos Restauradores) and at the Lisbon Welcome Center (Praça do Comércio).

What to do in Lisbon right now?

TO HAVE

Discover the Maria Eugénia and Francisco Garcia collection at the MNAC (museum redesigned by Jean-Michel Wilmotte).

The couple of collectors have brought together drawings, paintings and engravings covering five decades of national production, mainly between 1950 and 1970. The opportunity to take an overview of Portuguese art at a time also, that of the dictatorship, when culture was at the forefront of protest.

Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporâneo do Chiado, Rua Capelo 13, until May 29, 2022. Tel.

: +351 213 432 148.

AT TABLE

Feitoria is a gourmet restaurant with an exclusive author cuisine distinguished by a star in the Michelin Guide.

Joao Bessone

Feitoria

, by João Rodrigues, crowned with a Michelin star.

With his Caminho menus, the brilliant chef pays a vibrant tribute to Portugal, an oceanic land.

He works with products like materials.

Food for thought.

A work of exploration and maturation underpinned by high standards.

Everything takes place on the banks of the Tagus in the district of the Great Discoveries.

Feitoria

Read alsoRestaurants in Lisbon: affordable and inventive, our best addresses

THE HOTEL IN VIEW

Recently reopened after a renovation and above all a substantial extension, the Hotel Bairro Alto now occupies an entire block in the heart of the historic center.

Discreet charm and elegance.

But above all there are two sublime terraces, one of which is occupied by the restaurant of Nuno Mendes, the Portuguese chef who distinguished himself in London and made Portuguese cuisine travel and known.

A savory interpretation of Lusitanian gastronomy which one cannot get tired of as the view of the Tagus and the roofs of the city is hypnotic.

Great novelty: a second terrace with an equally enchanting view, that of the new restaurant, is now open to the public.

Bairro Alto Hotel

Read alsoOur 10 favorite hotels in the heart of Lisbon for less than 150 euros per night

Day 1: along the Tagus

Morning

And why not take advantage of the morning to enjoy a terrace in Alfama?

adobe isotck

We will be awakened by the chirping of birds or roosters! Because Lisbon is full of small city gardens hosting all kinds of birds. Hence its village air. With the tourist tidal wave, Lisbon is witnessing a phenomenon: the proliferation of addresses for breakfast and brunch to accommodate tourists who have opted for a rental (therefore no morning snack) or those who like prolong or repeat the delights of the first meal of the day. The Lisbon has also converted to this mode. Even if traditionally he will take a strong coffee or a

(coffee served with lots of milk in a large glass) at the counter, all accompanied by a p

o de Deus (bread of God), large coconut brioche served sliced ​​in half with a slice of cheese, or of course a famous pastel de nata (that iconic cream tartlet).

café

, for its shaded patio under a bougainvillea or its masonry benches on the inside covered with ethnically woven cushions.

Marquise embodies a south-facing art of living with its decorative corner.

Ceramics, small furniture, textiles staged as in a house.

And next door is the bakery area, the house's official supplier.

Another 100% Lisbon option: take your coffee in one of the many 1900 kiosks that brighten up the squares (Praça das flores, Príncipe Real, Praça Luís de Camões, etc.).

Open-air micro cafes precursors of street food and other food trucks, they are an unmissable meeting place for locals.

Lunch break

MAAT is the new cultural project of the city of Lisbon which focuses on three areas: art, architecture and technology. Hufton+Crow

Breathing the sea air and taking a breath of salty air is undoubtedly one of the greatest joys of this stay. We get on a bike rented from

a stone's throw from Cais do Sodré station and we go nose to the wind on the banks of the Tagus! Direction Belem. Along the way, an arty stop at

(Museu de Arte, Arquitectura e Tecnologia), a sublime white wave designed by British architect Amanda Levete. Then we will settle down with our feet in the water on the terrace at

, in this glassed-in and stylish container for a fresh salad, a platter of charcuterie or cheese, or a dish of cod – our first encounter with a classic. It is above all an opportunity to contemplate at leisure what is called the Sea of ​​Straw, to watch the sailboats pass by and the

soaring over the river, with its airs of Golden Gate Bridge of which it is the little brother.

The

is at the end of the quay and the

a few steps away.

We will first take the time to stop in front of the

, an immense sculpted caravel, a hymn to the past grandeur of Portugal.

Because on the ground a planisphere pavement puts your ideas in order.

A world tour at a glance for a small express review of the Portuguese maritime epic.

The opportunity to realize how much this people of navigators have discovered the whole world!

Galvanized by this spirit of adventure, we set off to explore the

, a tropical immersion in this conservatory of species brought back from the former colonies.

Read alsoWhat to do and what to visit in Lisbon, from the Jeronimos Monastery to Saint George's Castle

Afternoon

Pastéis de Belém, the obligatory gourmet break of the day in Belém.

Pasteis de Belem

Leaving this botanical expedition, we head for the

a few meters from the garden gate.

Here since 1837 thousands of tarts are made every day according to a secret recipe.

In these first 24 hours we will have known the call of the sea and the call of the sugar!

We will therefore have sailed in the footsteps of the Portuguese who brought back sugar and cinnamon from the other side of the world, the two major ingredients of pastéis de nata.

Aperitif and dinner

With its breathtaking view, the Park is the ideal bar during a getaway to Lisbon.

Park / Facebook account

Two places are essential for the aperitif: the

, so named because on the top floor of a car park. A hanging garden as a rooftop and a breathtaking view: the 25th of April bridge, the Christ, the Tagus. And

which agitates the first parts of the evening with its circular terrace at the top of the former headquarters of the Post Office. Two incomparable vantage points from which to see Lisbon bathed in pink at sunset, watch the swallows twirl in the sky and breathe in the scent of eternity. We could nourish ourselves with love and fresh water, so much the contemplation of all this beauty is a source of contentment. But the cocktail menu will bring you back to more earthly considerations. It is also time to sit down to eat. And for your first dinner, a local color table is a must. Choice:

, a century-old restaurant reopened under the leadership of a young man under 30 who handles the national repertoire with a modern twist.

The cocktail bar allows you to wait before a table becomes available, because there are no reservations and Faz Frio is taken by storm.

, 100% typical, offers an overview of Portuguese gastronomy - meat (black pork) and fish, seafood (sea bream, bass, cod, octopus etc).

Evening

It's time to answer the call of the night! Lisbon is a party capital. A good-natured party, democratic beyond all codes, sectarianism and other simpering. In other words, go out in the outfit you want with whoever you want! Infinitely restful lightness and tolerance. We can have a drink under the stars at

in the Intendente district. A vast private house with terraced roofs and a patio under the arbor, open to everyone by two girls of the night who cut their teeth in London at the Favela Chic and the Saatchi Gallery. We go to the living room converted into a dance floor for swaying Brazilian and Cape Verdean sounds tinged with electro. Closing at 2 a.m., right on time to go to

, unbeatable temple of the night on the banks of the Tagus for more than 25 years.

This is where the best international DJs perform.

And this is also what makes Lisbon said to be the “new Berlin”.

On these considerations, we will watch the sun rise from the roof.

Read alsoSeven tascas where to eat in Lisbon

Day 2: wanderings, prayers and pastries

Morning

Miaroduro da Graca.

Tourism of Lisbon

What to do after a short night and an intense first day? Recharge. Practicing contemplation in high doses, an essential activity to which Lisbon invites. We will sit on the terrace at the kiosk of the

We will order a coffee and a

(small cake with rice flour) and we will plunge our eyes into the Tagus which extends below or into a sweet reverie. And we will then decide to stroll by pushing the door of churches and convents: the

that of

with its cohort of angels or the

, a little confidential gem from the 17th century which withstood the earthquake of 1755. Its chapel is of incredible splendor.

Gold and azulejos galore.

We will continue this stroll from miradouro to miradouro, these esplanades offering breathtaking views of the city.

On the way to the

we will stop at the

which houses a series of Fables by La Fontaine in azulejos.

We will climb on the roof to gain height and fly over the Tagus.

Lunch break/Afternoon

The Lx Factory district in Lisbon is a former large Portuguese fabric factory that has been redeveloped into a small village.

Fernando Mendes

Change of scenery ! Farewell to gold, splendor and historical monuments! Let's take the pulse of another Lisbon, post-industrial at

Lx being the abbreviation of Lisbon, to pronounce L chiche. On either side of an alley are warehouses and factories converted into cafes, restaurants, bars, concept stores. We will have lunch in a former workers' canteen

before entering the temple of reading, the

bookshop housed in a former printing works. Or a cathedral of books from floor to ceiling in the middle of the presses.

Snack break to savor the famous chocolate cake from

, a successful mono-product of this tea room café.

We will finish in style on the side of the Basilica da Estrela at a table at

a top-notch vegetarian wine bar that embodies all of Lisbon's current movement: bistronomy, locavore cuisine, seasonal, natural wines and sustainable agriculture.

In the kitchen and in the cellar, a couple of Canadians, Marc Davidson and Stéphanie Audet, who came to try their luck in Lisbon.

An ultra-talented youth who serves high quality small dishes at honest prices (which is becoming a rarity in Lisbon).

Creativity to spare!

Our address book in Lisbon: restaurants, accommodation and shopping

GOOD DINING

In Margem, Avenida de Brasília, Doca do Bom Sucesso.

Phone.

: +351 918 620 032.

Cantina Lx, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103. Tel.

: +351 21 362 8239.

Landeau Chocolate, Lx Factory, Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103. Tel.

: +351 917 278 939.

Marquise

Rua Nova Piedade, 29/33

Pastéis de Belém, Rua de Belém, 84-92.

Phone.

: +351 213 637 423.

Faz Frio, Rua Dom Pedro V, 96. Tel.

: + 351 215 814 296.

Senhor Uva, Rua de Santo Amaro 66 A. Tel.

: +351 213 960 917.

Alfaia, Travessa da Queimada.

Phone.

: +351 21 346 1232.

GO OUT, HAVE A DRINK

Park, Calçada do Combro, 58, 6th floor.

Phone.

: +351 215 914 011.

Java, Praça Dom Luis I, 30.

Casa Independente, Largo do Intendente Pina Manique, 45,

Tel.

: +351 218 872 842.

LuxFrágil, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém A, Cais da Pedra a Santa Apolónia.

Phone.

: +351 218 820 890.

OR SLEEP ?

Facade of the Verride Palácio de Santa Catarina.

Verride Palácio de Santa Catarina / Photo press

Memmo Alfama Hotel Lisboa, Travessa Merceeiras, 27. Tel.

: +351 210 495 660.

Verride Palácio de Santa Catarina, Rua de Santa Catarina, 1. Tel.

: + 351 211 573 055.

Valverde Hotel, Avenida da Liberdade, 164. Tel.

: + 351 210 940 300.

Pestana Palace, Rua Jau, 54, Santo Amaro.

Phone.

: +351 213 615 600.

The Vintage Hotel & Spa, Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 2. Tel.

: +351 210 405 400.

SHOPPING

D'Olival, selection of olive oils and derived products, Rua Poiais de São Bento, 81. Tel.

: +351 963 374 811.

At Vida Portuguesa, the best of Portuguese craftsmanship.

Rua Anchieta 11. Tel.

: +213 465 073

Ler Devagar bookstore, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103. Tel.

: +351 21 325 9992.

Lx Factory, Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103. Tel.

: +351 213 259 992.

Embaixada, THE concept store in Lisbon housed in a Moorish palace, Praça do Príncipe Real, 26. Tel.

: +351 965 309 154.

TO KNOW

Slip into your suitcase a windbreaker, sunscreen (sunburn even in the middle of winter), a little wool (cool summer evenings, thermal shock guaranteed after hot days) and a pair of sneakers (ban heels under penalty to end up in the emergency room with a sprained ankle because of the steeply sloping streets and the ultra-slippery cobblestones).

GO

With Tap (0820.319.320).

7 daily flights from Paris, 3 from Lyon, 2 from Marseille, Toulouse and Nice, 1 from Bordeaux and Nantes.

The main tourist offices in Lisbon.

[Originally published in June 2020, this article has been updated.]