From the ocean, surfers have a breathtaking view of the snow-capped peaks of the Pyrenees.
Moreover, they are the envy:
"Here, you surf in the early morning and you ski in the afternoon"
, they boast to anyone who wants to hear them.
It's not false.
Moreover, the westernmost Pyrenean mountains give the impression of plunging into the ocean.
If the Rhune, the nearest, is rarely snowy because of a too maritime climate, it is enough to sink into the depths of the green Basque valleys on sunny days and to climb a little in altitude to find what you are looking for.
On the edge of the Spanish border but also straddling the two countries, the Nordic spaces offer enchanting scenery that looks like the far north: centuries-old pine forests, valleys, frozen waterfalls, clearings... Iraty, Somport and Issarbe, the most more natural, there are no ski lifts.
Read alsoCross-country skiing: our 10 favorite resorts in France
As for La Pierre-Saint-Martin and Gourette, the two main alpine ski resorts in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, they have developed beautiful routes as well as fun activities of sled dogs, fatbikes or biathlon-style rifle shooting which will also delight both beginners and experts.
Read alsoOur 2022 ranking of French ski resorts
Basque Country: the Nordic area of Iraty (1300 m)
The hamlet of 40 chalets of Iraty.
Bruno Lab
Famous for its immense beech forest, the Iraty forest is the largest in Europe, with its 17,300 hectares spread over Spain and France, framed by the summit of Okabe and the peak of Orhy.
Located in a very sparsely populated area, it has kept a wild and mysterious aspect, fueled by many Basque legends.
When the area is very snowy, Iraty looks like the Far North: no village, no wifi, absolute calm, just this little hamlet of scattered chalets dedicated to seasonal rental.
An area that has nothing to envy to more mountain resorts with 23 km of marked trails for snowshoeing (four circuits from 3.5 km to 8 km for the longest) and three cross-country ski loops totaling 26km.
Something to delight the most demanding.
Read alsoMinichalets, the mountain in small groups
The cross-country ski trail.
The "Uthurcharre" black run, a beautiful 15 km loop with a panorama of the peaks of Haute-Soule, including the emblematic Pic d'Orhy which culminates at 2017 meters, one of the highest peaks in the Basque Country.
If the 15 km frightens you, an 11 km variant will save you your strength.
The snowshoe walk.
Track n°2 "Iraitzabaleta", a nice 5 km walk within everyone's reach.
You will venture into an area renowned for wood pigeon hunting, recognizable by the hunting shelters located at the passes, and you will discover lovely viewpoints over the Haute-Soule.
You are here in a wild animal reserve.
With a little luck, you will see roe deer or even stags or at least their tracks in the snow.
The heartbeat of winter.
Snowshoes in the moonlight.
On the program, a walk on the crests of Orgambidexha, mulled wine in a cayolar and a snack at the Iraty restaurant.
Tel: 05.59.28.51.29.
Prices.
The price of a day pass is €7 per day.
Equipment rental on site at the Chalets d'Iraty.
Phone.
: 05 59 28 51 29 or chalets-iraty.com
Barétous valley: the Nordic area of Issarbe (1450 m)
Snowshoeing in Issarbe.
Bruno Lab
Issarbe means “under the stars”.
This intimate Nordic resort lives up to its name.
Its snow-capped peaks touch the sky.
Issarbe is the most unknown resort in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, and therefore the least frequented.
It enjoys an exceptional panorama of the Pic d'Anie massif.
Eight trails totaling 31 kilometers welcome both cross-country skiers and snowshoe walkers, offering pretty walks that are fairly easy thanks to slightly uneven terrain.
The snowshoe walk.
The 9 km long route first takes the green track of Issarbe then joins the ridges.
At the very top, a 360° panoramic view of the resort of La Pierre-Saint-Martin on the Béarn side and on the other side of the Basque Country.
In good weather, you can see the city of Pau in the distance.
The cross-country ski trail.
The 2.2 km long Bénou track is very easy but it follows a magical route which is that of the road which connects St Engrâce to La Pierre-Saint-Martin.
Beautiful in summer, this road is closed in winter.
You will have the feeling of being alone in the world, and this will certainly make you want to come back in the summer to admire the green valleys where herds of sheep graze.
The heartbeat of winter.
Participate in the Trail Blanc which will take place on March 6, 2022. On the program, two races, one of 9 km for novices and 14 km for the most experienced.
www.trailblancdissarbe.jimdo.com
Prices.
€5.50 entry for snowshoe walkers and €6 for cross-country skiers.
Phone.
: 05 59 36 00 26 and communedelanneenbaretous.jimdofree.com/.
Equipment rental on 06 77 93 44 84. Take-away sale at the Grand Tétras restaurant on 05 59 36 00 26 or 07 80 46 53 52.
Barétous Valley: the Nordic area of Braca (1450 m)
Dog sledding in La Pierre-Saint-Martin.
Astrid Taupin
Between the small town of Arette, sadly famous for having been 80% destroyed in 1967 by an earthquake, and the alpine ski resort of La Pierre-Saint-Martin is a pretty Nordic space with an enchanting setting of pine forests. and clearings. A multitude of activities are offered apart from cross-country skiing and snowshoeing with dog sledding, fatbiking and laser rifle shooting. The station, labeled Station Verte since 2016, is committed to ecological actions with reforestation and the improvement of links between public transport. A varied area with 13 cross-country ski trails totaling 12 km and 9 km of marked and groomed paths for snowshoes and hikers.
The cross-country ski trail.
That of Beeches (3 km).
Although it is blue, considered easy, it is quite hilly with descents and a few tight turns that spice up the ride.
The snowshoe walk.
Le Soum de Soudet, this 4.5 km long groomed track goes deep into the forest and rises gently, which allows you to warm up.
Half an hour later, it leads to a huge plateau revealing a breathtaking panorama over the Soule valley.
You can see the Atlantic Ocean on very clear days.
The heartbeat of winter.
Sleep at the "Black Rock", a tiny lodge that can be reached by snowmobile.
On the program: snowshoeing, Nordic bath under the stars, dinner and breakfast.
€395 per night for two people.
Tel.: 06 95 56 24 49. www.atipiclodge.fr
Prices.
The package is €8.50 per day, also a 4-hour package at €5.50.
Rental of snowshoes and cross-country skis on site.
The Stone House: 05 59 66 20 09 or n-py.com
Ossau Valley, Gourette (1500 m)
The brave will go around Lake Bézou, which adds an hour to the ride.
Gourette Epsa
One morning in November 1903, a certain Henri Sallenave, originally from Pau, attached to his feet the two long ash planks he had just received from the Manufacture in Saint-Etienne. It soars on the snowpack of the Plateau du Bézou where only a few roofs of shepherds' huts and the mine workshops emerge. Skiing was born and will revolutionize the economy of the Pyrenean mountains. In the 1930s, Gourette became the first resort in the massif and the favorite vacation spot for wealthy Bordelais. A stone's throw from the Col d'Aubisque, it is also an essential place for cyclists in summer. If Gourette is renowned for the quality of its alpine ski slopes, it is less so for its Nordic area. This winter,the resort has reinvented itself to welcome tourists by opening its area to snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.
The snowshoe walk.
This route runs along the Esclops track to reach the Bézou plateau. A good hour and a half of walking uphill in the fir trees with about 300 m of elevation gain, the climb can also be done by the Bézou gondola. It is also a geocaching route with the Terra Aventura application to download before leaving which spice up the walk. The climb will be more fun for children because they will have to find clues to (perhaps) win the treasure at the top! The brave will go around the lake of Bézou, which adds an hour to the ride, before descending either by the same route or by the green track of La Balade or the blue of Rhododendrons.
The heartbeat of winter.
The station inaugurates this season the After Ski Nature.
Between 5:30 p.m. and 7 p.m., skiers can go up the green La Balade run to Espace Bézou, a 3 km climb in the Bois Noir forest and then descend via the slopes.
Every Tuesday and Thursday except school holidays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., the Haut Préhistoire blue run is reserved for ski touring from the Cotch chairlift.
Prices.
Pedestrian pass for the ski lifts.
€6 per day.
Tourist office on 05 59 05 12 17 and gourette.com.
Equipment rental in resort.
Read alsoSki touring in the Pyrenees: from Font-Romeu to Hautacam, our selection of routes
Aspe Valley: the Nordic area of Somport (1600 m)
Skating at Somport.
Bruno Lab
In the heart of the Pyrenees park, this Franco-Spanish resort is the kingdom of cross-country skiers and walkers, but also of pilgrims who connect Santiago de Compostela in summer. In the past, the Col du Somport was one of the most popular passages for soldiers and merchants on their way to the province of Aragon. Since 2003, a tunnel has made it possible to connect the two countries easily. The Espace du Somport is the Nordic area of the Western Pyrenees which offers the greatest variety of cross-country ski trails for all levels, from white to introduce beginners to black for the most experienced with an area totaling 34 km including 27 km from the French side - the Spanish side being closed this winter. Walkers will have plenty to do with 17 km of marked snowshoe trails, including 4.5 km of groomed trails.
The cross-country ski trail.
The blue lake run (2200 m long) offers a varied landscape with a first part in the forest and then a plateau on the ridges from where you take the time to admire the panorama. An hour and a half of quiet climb, no more than 100 meters of elevation gain and a return while descending.
The snowshoe walk.
The R3, the route of the Isards.
This walk is for walkers who have snowshoeed before as it is marked but not groomed, which means that after a snowfall you have to make your mark.
Of the 9 km that this walk represents, it must be admitted, it is exhausting.
But the effort is worth it because the route is largely in the forest and little frequented.
Three-quarters of the way, it joins a picnic area with tables just a stone's throw from the blue cross-country ski run.
The heartbeat of winter.
The Nordic ski school offers the discovery of the laser biathlon activity.
Prices.
€5 for the ski pass for snowshoe trails and €10 for cross-country skiers.
Rental of equipment on site.
Family day pack: passes + equipment for two adults and two children at €25 for the day.
Tel: 05.59.36.00.21.
lesomport.com
Practical notebook
HOW TO GET TO THE MOUNTAINS IN BÉARN BASQUE COUNTRY?
By train
Pau is the main TGV station which gives access to Haut Béarn.
Allow two hours from Bordeaux or four and a half hours from Paris.
By plane
Pau airport is the closest with daily flights from Paris-Orly, Roissy Charles de Gaulle and Lyon.
By car
Access is via the A64.
For Iraty and Issarbe, exit n°4, Urt, Bidache, St Palais, Remember to take a pair of chains in the trunk.
For La Pierre-Saint-Martin and Le Somport, exit n°7 (Salies de Béarn, Mauléon, Oloron-Sainte-Marie).
For Gourette, exit E7 Zaragoza/Pau-Ouest, Lescar.
