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Two days in Avignon, divine theater for a getaway

2022-02-17T05:14:13.067Z


CITY GUIDE - On the banks of the Rhône, between the Alpilles, the Luberon and Mont Ventoux, the Palais des Papes defies the sky of Provence. At its feet, a maze of narrow streets punctuated by religious buildings, mansions and plane trees entwined by a medieval rampart. A masterful setting...


If the Romans and the merchants of the Middle Ages left their mark on this site bordering the Rhône, it was above all the installation, even intermittent, of Pope Clement V that changed the destiny of the town of Avignon at the beginning of the 14th century. century.

Soon, around the Palace of the Popes flourish residences of cardinals, churches and convents.

From this religious century, which will see nine popes (including two antipopes) succeed one another, the city has kept the memory.

The visitor is struck by the number of bell towers springing from the tiled roofs and the facades of chapels which so often appear at the bend of a street.

In 1947, Jean Vilar imagined a theater festival there which gives the city a joyfully acrobatic face every July.

But all seasons lend themselves to a stopover in this historic city with popular accents.

SEE THE FILE -

Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur: the

Figaro travel guide

The arrival

By train

From Paris, the train is essential for its direct connection by TGV in 2h40.

Count one hour from Lyon.

From Avignon TGV station, a TER train or bus link reaches the historic center in about ten minutes.

By plane

The closest and best served airport is Marseille-Provence, accessible by car in around 45 minutes or by shuttle.

By taxi, allow 170 € from the airport (taxis-aeroport.com).

The city center of Avignon (intramural) is easily explored on foot, but you can also get around on two wheels with the Velopop self-service bicycles (velopop.fr) or by taking the La Baladine electric scooter (ticket: €0.5).

By car

For people in a vehicle, it is better to park outside the ramparts, in the Île Piot car parks or the Italians car park, connected by free buses.

Ask about

The Avignon tourist office offers a 24 or 48 hour pass giving access to the main sites of the city and Villeneuve les Avignon, on the other side of the Rhône.

Price: €21 and €28 respectively per person.

Right now

TO HAVE

The Fossil Ray exhibition, Abdelkader Benchamma, at La Collection Lambert

Initiatory journey in the work of Abdelkader Benchamma, at La Collection Lambert.

Gregoire Edouard

The contemporary art museum in Avignon, housed in two 18th century mansions, invites visitors on an initiatory journey through the work of Abdelkader Benchamma.

In black and white, sometimes in color, his drawings sketch out a dreamlike universe with a powerful vocabulary of forms.

A doubly remarkable exhibition: by the number of works presented (covering a period of fifteen years) and by the way in which the artist invests the premises with creations made for the event.

The Lambert Collection, Rayon Fossile exhibition, Abdelkader Benchamma, October 29, 2021- February 20, 2022. Price: €10.

5, rue Violette, 84000 Avignon.

Phone.

: 04 90 16 56 20.

THE GOOD TABLE

Pollen

The new light wooden setting of the Pollen restaurant.

Photo press / Pollen

Starred in 2021 and installed in a new setting, in light wood with an open kitchen, Mathieu Desmarest signs a simple and sincere score nourished by his childhood gastronomic memories and his favorites of the moment.

Its surprise menu amazed us with its airy mushroom mousse, roasted hazelnuts and pickled mustard seeds or its crispy beef chuck, strong juice with red wine and pink radishes from Barthelasse.

Mainly organic and biodynamic wine list.

At lunch: 3 sequences at €35 (€55 with food and wine pairing) or 6 sequences at €80 (€120 with wines).

At dinner: formula with 6 sequences only.

Pollen, 18 rue Joseph Vernet, 84000 Avignon.

Phone.

: 04 86 34 93 74.

THE HOTEL IN VIEW

Hotel Bristol Avignon

The Bristol Hotel in Avignon has benefited from a successful renovation.

Photo press / Hotel Bristol

At the southern entrance to the old town, this historic address has been given a makeover by adorning itself with Art Deco trappings which have earned it a fourth star.

The successful renovation mixes graphic wallpapers, a vibrant palette of blues and greens and stylish furniture that dresses the beautiful volumes of the lobby.

The most popular rooms have an unobstructed view of rue Jean Jaurès.

In these comfortable units, the bathrooms have been kept quite simple.

Quality buffet breakfast.

An address with good value for money.

Hotel Bristol Avignon, 44 Cours Jean Jaurès.

Phone.

: 04 90 16 48 48. Double room from €80.

Breakfast: €15.

DAY 1: DIVE INTO THE HISTORIC HEART

The Pont d'Avignon, whose real name is Pont Bénezet.

Adobe Stock / pszabo

Morning

Start your visit with the cradle of the city, the

Rocher des Doms

, overlooking the Rhône and covered with a garden.

On the other side,

Fort Saint-André

and the

Philippe-Le-Bel tower

in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon are striking.

To the north,

Mont Ventoux

peeled, often capped with snow in winter, watches over Provence.

Nearby, the

Doms cathedral

, crowned with a golden Virgin, adjoins the Palace of the Popes, the largest Gothic monument in Europe.

High facades pierced with machicolation, crenellated walls and towers, pepperbox or square, watch over the cloisters and gardens.

These have just been opened to the public and bring a pleasant breath of fresh air to an unmissable visit.

The highlights?

The chapels and painted rooms as well as the loggia overlooking the main courtyard.

The large chapel hosts exhibitions.

Salgado Amazônia

, bringing together works by the famous Brazilian photographer, will be presented from June to October 2022. If you want to linger in the monument, know that in summer, a prestigious hotel in the city (

La Mirande

in 2021) is fitting out a bedroom at the top of one of the towers.

For 2022, inquire at the Tourist Office to book.

Leave the palace to approach the river.

You can take a few steps on the

Pont d'Avignon

, whose real name is Pont Bénezet.

Four arches still span the Rhône, vestiges of a structure battered by the floods whose maintenance was stopped in the 17th century.

A moment of daydreaming before sinking into the maze of intramural streets for the lunch break.

Breakfast

Not far from the bridge, rue Vernet, chef Mathieu Desmarets officiates in his now starred restaurant Pollen and has opened, in a completely different register, the

Moloko

, a "friendly canteen" with a dish of the day at 15€.

You have to come early because there are few tables.

To reconcile shopping and a lunch break, head to

Tulipe

, the café restaurant of the Le Nid boutique which serves ethical and local cuisine near Place Saint-Didier.

This concept store offers locally or French-made products, often eco-designed, around tableware, furniture and textiles.

Finally, in this city marked by the religious presence, it is also possible to have (very good) lunch in a tiny chapel, near the Saint-Lazare gate where the chef Adonis Gana signs a cuisine of naturalness.

The Chapel

also includes a craftsmen's shop and pleasant exteriors.

Afternoon

It's time to stroll and get lost in the labyrinth of alleys of the old center.

You always end up in a delightful square flanked by a church like

Saint-Pierre

, near the Palais des Papes,

Saint-Didier

or

Les Corps Saints

further south.

You quickly fall under the spell of rue des Teinturiers, in the south-east quarter, a picturesque cobbled lane with its large paddle wheels on the Sorgue evoking working-class times.

Nearby, rue de la Bonneterie and rue des Fourbisseurs bring together local craftsmen-creators united under the Les Fabricateurs banner.

In the neighborhood, you should also discover the baroque universe of

Vox Populi

where the designer Pascale Palun exhibits her decorative works on concrete blocks under the glass roof of a 19th century bourgeois house.

During your walk, do not forget to look up to discover details on the facades: virgins carved in niches, wrought iron balconies, stucco foliage and monumental doors.

They indicate these private mansions which hatched in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Rue du Roi René, two palaces with the flavor of Italy stare each other down.

The ceremonial staircase decorated with paintings of

the Hôtel Berton des Balbes de Crillon

(a private condominium) is revealed during private visits organized by the Tourist Office.

Several hotels house cultural spaces.

Among them, visit the

Angladon museum

located near Place Saint-Didier, to discover little-known works by Van Gogh, Cézanne or Picasso.

At the end of the day, for some chic shopping, go up Rue Vernet which lines up the brand name boutiques and finish your walk on

Place Crillon

, near Porte de l'Oulle.

You will love its romantic atmosphere with its old theater (housing The next door, a trendy street wear boutique) and its leaning plane tree.

Aperitif and dinner

In the summer season, take advantage of the city's countless terraces for an aperitif.

Our favorites for tasting hand-picked nectars in the city's most pleasant and festive squares?

Those of the wine bars

Le 17

, place des Corps Saints, or

Marions-nous

, place des Carmes, For a breathtaking view of Avignon, wines, planchas and a holiday atmosphere, head for the

Vinotage

barge , moored on the île Piot (south of the island of Barthelasse) to the west of the city.

If you like the unusual, go to the

Maison des Fogasses

, an extravagantly decorated intramural private mansion where Corinne Chicheportiche entertains with whimsy in her shaded garden or in one of her lounges.

Call in advance, the opening dates are variable (cocktails, dinners, brunch are offered depending on the period).

Finally, gourmets will dine at

L'Agape

to discover the generous cuisine of chef Julien Gleize with his star-studded career.

It magnifies local products through revisited classics and more daring dishes.

Evening

For a cozy atmosphere, have a drink at the bar of

La Mirande

, a 5* hotel located in a 14th century residence at the foot of the Palais des Papes.

We sit in the patio, the garden or in one of the lounges richly decorated in an 18th century spirit for a trip back in time.

Fans of musical evenings will bet on the

Délirium

, an artists' residence, or the

Ajmi Jazz Club

which offer a few concert dates during the year (check their website).

And why not an evening at the theatre, at the

Chêne noir

for example, when quality programming keeps the art of comedy alive all year round in Avignon?

DAY 2: GETAWAY TO VILLENEUVE-LÈS-AVIGNON

The streets of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Adobe Stock / barmalini

Morning

It's time to cross the Rhône to explore the architectures seen from the Rocher des Doms.

To gain strength before this cultural outing, which can be done on foot or on two wheels (our preference), have an intramural brunch at the

Café Roma

, in the former stables of the Palais des Papes.

Then hop on a self-service bicycle to take the

Edouard Daladier bridge

to the northwest of the ramparts.

A few pedal strokes and you are in the countryside, on the

island of Barthelasse

, the largest river island in Europe, with a sumptuous view of the city of the popes.

You can easily drive two hours between cultivated fields and stop at Maison Manguin, a distiller that stands out for its amazing olive spirits.

You can also reach Villeneuve les Avignon directly, where the imposing Philippe-le-Bel tower once marked the entrance into the Kingdom of France.

The hill crowned with ramparts shelters the

Saint-André abbey

.

Of the religious building, only vestiges remain, but the owners have wonderfully laid out the premises with Italian gardens and host exhibitions.

An inspiring stop.

We continue the walk in the heart of this chic suburb of Avignon discovering one of the largest monasteries of the Carthusian order, founded by Pope Innocent VI in 1356. Today an artists' residence, La Chartreuse shows the typical architecture, made up of cells, cloisters and gardens of these medieval hermitages.

Breakfast

The Charterhouse.

Alex Nollet

Near

La Chartreuse

, settle down for brunch in the courtyard of a former cardinal's livery, at La Divigne (Villeneuve les Avignon was very popular with high dignitaries in the time of the popes).

Want a real lunch?

Return to the historic center of Avignon for a gourmet stopover in the town halls, Place Pie.

Smell the scents of Provence in front of the stalls of local producers and artisans before sitting down to eat at Cuisine Centr'Halles.

In a corner, the American-born chef Jonathan Chiri executes delicate cuisine with accents from the South, as well as a Cajun dish that has ensured his fame.

Afternoon

Continue your stroll through the alleys of the old town that you will not have had time to explore the day before.

Place des Carmes

for example (which hosts a flea market until 1 p.m.) or place

Pignotte

, both very pleasant, in the northeast quarter of the city.

For a cozy break, punctuate your stroll with a tea in the gardens of La Mirande or the Hotel d'Europe.

Then set off to discover

the Lambert Collection

, Avignon's top contemporary art museum.

Between the temporary and permanent exhibitions, regularly renewed from works in the background, you can easily spend two hours alone with pieces by Buren, Sol LeWitt and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

The religious heritage is not the only richness of this atypical city of Provence.

End of the day

If you leave the city late, in summer, complete your stay with a descent of the Rhône by canoe at nightfall.

Departing from Barthelasse Island, your boat glides over the water, brushing against wild shores dotted with ash trees and willows.

Then it is wonder when the illuminated city appears at dusk.

The Bénezet bridge and the silhouette of the Palais des Papes create a majestic setting for the last act of your Avignon getaway.

Address Book

GOOD DINING

The Agape, 21 Place des Corps Saints.

Phone.

: 04 90 85 04 06.

The Chapel, 14 rue Saint Bernard.

Phone.

: 06 68 32 91 56.

Tulip, 7 rue des Trois Faucons.

Phone.

: 04 90 01 70 64.

Centr'Halles kitchen, les halles d'Avignon, 18 place Pie.

Phone.

: 06 46 89 85 33.

Café Roma, 4 rue des stairs Sainte Anne.

Phone.

: 04 90 86 86 77.

In the Jardin des Carmes (reopening March 2022), 21 place des Carmes.

Phone.

: 09 54 25 10 67.

Moloko, 47 rue Joseph Vernet.

Phone.

: 04 65 87 63 41.

La Divigne, 57 rue de la République, 30 400 Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Phone.

: 04 90 22 00 00.

GO OUT, HAVE A DRINK

17 Place aux Vins, 74 Place des Corps Saints.

Phone.

: 09 84 47 43 39.

Let's get married, 1, place des Carmes.

Phone.

: 04 90 14 20 20.

Vinotage, Chemin de l'île Piot.

Phone.

: 04 65 81 16 55.

La Mirande, 4, place de l'Amirande.

Phone.

: 04 90 14 20 20.

The house of Fogasses, 37 rue des fourbisseurs.

Phone.

: 06 63 80 03 37.

Ajmi Jazz club – La Manutention, contemporary music scene dedicated to jazz and improvised music.

4, rue des stairs Sainte-Anne.

Phone.

: 04 13 39 07 85.

SHOPPING

Vox Populi, 35 bis rue Bonneterie.

Phone.

: 04 86 65 59 08.

The Nest, 7 rue des Trois Faucons.

Phone.

: 09 63 61 70 64

The Next Door Baroncelli, concept store.

5 rue Folco de Baroncelli.

Tel: 04 90 82 36 97.

Manguin Distillery, 784 Chemin des Poiriers.

Phone.

: 04 90 82 62 29.

MUSEUMS

Palace of the Popes, Place du Palais.

Phone.

: 04 32 74 32 74.

The Saint-Bénezet bridge, rue Ferruce.

Phone.

: 04 32 74 32 74.

Angladon Museum, 5 rue Laboureur.

Tel: 04 90 82 29 03.

La Chartreuse, 58 rue de la République, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Phone.

: 04 90 15 24 24.

The Abbey of Saint-André, rue Montée du Fort, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Phone.

: 04 90 25 55 95.

EVENTS

The Avignon Festival, one of the biggest international live performance events.

Every year, in July (in 2022: from July 7 to 26).

GETAWAY

Canoe Vaucluse, Antoine Pinay driveway, Barthelasse island.

Tel: 04 28 70 27 27/06 11 52 16 73.

OR SLEEP ?

In the historic center, the rooms with terrace (or in the Privilege and Suite category) at the Hôtel de l'Horloge offer good value for money in a 4* address with a warm atmosphere with its wooden doors, its parquet or seagrass floors. One of them enjoys a view of the Palais des Papes.

The only downside in terms of decoration is the breakfast room with its slightly outdated glass roof.

From €115 per double room for the recommended categories.

Buffet breakfast: €18.

Hôtel de l'Horloge, Place de l'Horloge.

Phone.

: 04 90 16 42 00.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2022-02-17

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