The second day of the 75th edition of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Madrid (MBFWM) has been marked by the presence of Queen Letizia, who has returned to the Spanish fashion event held at Ifema, 12 years after her previous visit, still a princess
While walking through the corridors of the space, the catwalk has started with the proposal of Andrés Sardá, whose founder recently received the Gold Medal for Merit in Fine Arts posthumously.
The model Andrés Velencoso has been in charge of opening the parade, giving way to the first part of the collection, starring the play of textures and the
denim fabric
.
The volume of the music has been raised and a psychedelic print on the background of the catwalk has introduced the second part of the collection, with night designs that manage to blur the line that separates lingerie pieces from outer garments.
Sardá was followed by Isabel Sanchís, with a collection that honors the cultural diversity of the firm's clients.
“We wanted to be inspired by them.
Create garments that bring together everything that our faithful look for in our firm”, says the designer, moments before the parade.
The proposal has been carried out by chains, feathers and bright appliqués that decorate fluid silhouettes in delicate fabrics, where, in addition to black, always present in the firm's collections, browns, oranges, greens and pinks have taken center stage.
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Queen Letizia revolutionizes the Madrid catwalk on her first visit in 12 years
XL floral prints, stripes and sixties-inspired psychedelic patterns have starred in the Hannibal Laguna parade, with a vibrant collection that recovers the retro essence and puts neon tones in the spotlight.
Delicate and fluid fabrics such as crepe and organza shape sophisticated long dresses that sculpt the woman's silhouette.
Noteworthy are the puffed sleeves and asymmetrical designs, as well as the plunging necklines and voluminous skirts.
Beyond prints, she has also presented monocolor dresses, as well as midi pieces, elephant-leg pants and mini dresses.
Sobriety has made its way on the catwalk with the presentation of Roberto Torretta, where mid-calf silhouettes, satin fabrics, tailoring and neutral tones have prevailed, contrasting with garments in bright colors such as pink and green and a line of evening dresses in black with transparencies and metallic fabrics.
This sobriety has also been present in the Teresa Helbig parade, which has presented a collection full of details.
Colors such as black, pink and military green have colored the flowing silhouettes, the mini skirts, the tailored pieces, the shorts and the midi dresses that have stood out in the collection.
A proposal that pays homage to emblematic women writers and feminist icons such as Virginia Woolf, Toni Morrison or Joan Didion, with silhouettes that seek to empower women.
A model parades for Roberto Torretta at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week on March 11, 2022. Antonio Gutiérrez (Europa Press)
Arriving at the end of the day, a heartbreaking flamenco song has accompanied the yellow and blue styling that has opened the parade of Jorge Vázquez in honor of Ukraine, one of the few references to the invaded country that have been seen during the parades this Friday.
After the tribute, nostalgia has made its way on the catwalk, with a proposal that runs through the Spain of the seventies, stopping at the eternal nights of the Chicote Museum, which brought together aristocrats, artists, bullfighters and all kinds of celebrities.
A universe full of light, color and movement, which has been reflected in the light silhouettes that the designer has presented, with drapes, adjustments at the waist and brushstrokes of volume.
In the vibrant color range that breaks with the black and white of the time and is combined with the classic floral prints of the house,
paisley
.
These patterns have decorated fabrics such as velvet,
tweed
, lace, alpaca wool or silk.
The day has ended with Brain & Beast, who has returned to the catwalk after a season of rest.
“Not everything is so important.
Neither work is so important, nor being here”, defends the designer, who wanted to make an allusion to the passage of time in his presentation, projecting a countdown timer on the background of the catwalk, which has ended at the same time that the parade.
The collection is full of apparently unconnected prints, colors and figures, which question beauty and highlight virtue from mistakes, a concept on which the collection is based.
“We are like a puzzle, a combination of inherited DNA fragments, in which errors sometimes occur.”
Fabrics of all kinds are mixed creating groundbreaking pieces that reflect a new concept of beauty.
“We work with beauty, but not looking for it,
A model during the Teresa Helbig parade. OSCAR DEL POZO (AFP)