Along with its evolution and constant space for imagination, the expressiveness of its time and context, as well as being a fertile ground to suggest ideological and cultural transformations, haute couture has served as a niche where fashion serves as a pretext for
freedom .
without limits
, regardless of whether its outlandish appearance and its crazy shapes can be worn on a day-to-day basis or not.
For decades, prior to the era of shows that border on disruption and performance such as those of brands like Supreme, Vetements or Balenciaga, haute couture was the world of the perfect, the impeccable, the most elegant edges and the impression of the unattainable.
However, generational changes, geopolitical uncertainty, as well as technological vertigo have given rise to fashion lovers incorporating the imaginary of the anomalous, the oblique, the informal and the unimaginable to achieve one of the constant imprints of fashion. fashion: be genuine.
Today it is not strange to see that fashion, especially in the field of the highest luxury and haute couture, undermining the prevailing forms is practically a rule for the youngest haute couture of the moment.
From the always soapy aesthetics proposed by all the evolutionary designers behind a no less controversial figure such as rapper Kanye West, passing through the garish outfits of Duran Lantink, or the surprising eccentricities of the MET Gala, these are six faces within haute couture that speak to us of
vigor, courage and transformation
.
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1. Duran Lantink
This young Dutch designer based in Amsterdam has not only caught the attention of celebrities from the world of music such as Amandititita or Billie Eilish for his wide cuts, untimely in appearance, playful, daring and always colorful, but also for using fashion as a discursive vehicle to talk about what is happening in the world.
Lantink also produces sustainable, ethical and innovative collections, having worked with diverse communities, such as the homeless community in Amsterdam and sex workers in Cape Town.
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2. Mowalola Ogunlesi
Throughout his career, the always controversial and loved or criticized producer, rapper, actor and also fashion designer, Kanye West, has used a group of visionary collaborators, almost always young, with a completely asymmetrical look at the prevailing trends in the fashion industry, undermining conventions in an always ambiguous terrain that navigates between play, daring and wearable artistic gesture.
For her most recent collection, inspired by multiple cultural references, cuts and the presence of oversized, the 25-year-old Nigerian-British designer Mowalola Ogunlesi is the "secret weapon" of the controversial Yeezy.
Mowalola has already designed custom pieces in previous years for distinguished celebrities such as Drake or Naomi Campbell.
3. Vidhi Karva
After presenting her collection at Dubai Fashion Week 2020, through the international catwalk for children and teenagers, this designer from Pune, India, caught the attention of the industry to officially become the youngest fashion designer of the world.
While still studying at Indus International School in Pune, India, Karva sent out a collection of evening gowns, which focused on sheen and volume encrusted with jewels.
The designer even walked the runway with one of her models, showing off one of her own designs and surprising more than one.
Now there is only a promising future.
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4. Andrea Brocca
Sensuality, color and boundless elegance are the seemingly classic elements to reinvent dress imagery by Andrea Brocca, a relatively new face in the fashion industry.
Fresh from graduating from iconic Central Saint Martins, London, last spring, Brocca had already caught her eye after opening her own boutique in Dubai at just 16 years of age.
In 2020, her still-post-grad collection launched online last spring, through a variety of voluminous, form-fitting and anything but coy dresses, all of which struck a chord with Lady Gaga herself.
He is currently one of the recurring names in the haute couture trend so far this year.
5. Daniel W. Fletcher
The freshness and classic sense of the lines, two elements that he uses with relative simplicity, are not impediments to reimagining and enhancing sober but hypnotic designs, earning the odes of celebrities, brands and designers.
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins, London in 2015, Daniel W. Fletcher cut his teeth under the rigors of Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Lanvin before launching his own namesake brand, which counts Tommy Dorfman and Harry Styles as obsessive fans of her contemporary unisex pieces, which were key in Next in Fashion alongside Minju Kim.
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6. Peter Do
Various publications have called it the new benchmark for New York fashion, and although Peter Do is understood as a group of daring and elegant designers based in the North American capital of fashion, behind this brand is its creator, Biên Hòa, a Vietnamese designer who emigrated to the suburbs of Philadelphia at the age of 14 and today is recognized, thanks to his coveted designs that give life under the name of "clean tailoring" traveling between the idea of gabardine and pajamas, sensual fabrics and attractive colors that are today's obsession of personalities like Zendaya, Solange and Beyoncé.