Forests of towers as far as the eye can see, ubiquitous traffic jams, a permanent cloud of pollution… The postcard of São Paulo, a priori, does not make you dream.
Economic capital of Brazil, it has the rhythm of business in the skin, well before that of the samba.
We live fast in an incessant chaos on land and in the air – the ballet of helicopters is impressive.
And yet "Sampa", as it is called here, has something to seduce with its vibrant cultural scene and its tables which are the best in the country.
Sprawling, its size of 1521 km (against 105 km for Paris) belongs to the world of giants.
This is perhaps what fascinates so much.
How do we live in the midst of more than 20 million inhabitants?
French entrepreneur Alexandre Allard does not have the answer, but gives some ideas for the city of tomorrow.
His latest project, the Cidade Matarazzo, is a modern-day madness.
Inhabited by the urgency of preserving the planet, it stages the Brazilian green jewel, reconciling nature and the urban jungle.
From the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, 21st century version.
Ten thousand trees and shrubs will be planted in this former maternity hospital, long abandoned, which will house nearly 30,000 m² of offices, a recording studio, a cinema, a cultural center, shops and a multitude of restaurants.
For now, only the Rosewood Hotel, the first in South America, is open.
It was fitted out by Philippe Starck.
From marquetry to marble, everything is local.
I'
Brazilian art is omnipresent and blends subtly with architecture.
This is the case with the minimalist intervention of the carioca Daniel Senise, who celebrates memory and the passage of time: sections of old walls covered in graffiti, whose outdated beauty he has preserved – and underlined – appear as a surprise in one of the hallways.
Read alsoWe pushed the doors of the Rosewood São Paulo, a hotel homage to the Atlantic Forest
In the Cidade Matarazzo, the Mata Atlântica tower by Jean Nouvel is part of the new Rosewood São Paulo hotel.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
But it is the Mata Atlântica tower, by Jean Nouvel, currently being finalized, which attracts all eyes, with its trees over 14 meters tall that dress it and the wood suggested in the cladding.
"
It was not possible to use it on the facade of a building of this height, so I integrated metal in the color of wood, a little ambiguous, allowing me to achieve harmony with the environment
" ,
explains the architect.
Its tower adjoins another building, signed by Rudy Ricciotti, enveloped by roots-trunks and baptized Ayahuasca, a psychotropic plant used by Indian tribes.
Vertical and vegetable utopia
Paula Raia's boutique-workshop by architect Isay Weinfeld.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
Nature reigns supreme at the Cidade Matarazzo as it is a stone's throw from the famous Avenue Paulista, the local Champs-Élysées, power 10. It is best explored on Sundays on foot – before it is returned to cars at 16 hours.
There then floats a joyful air of popular celebration between the smell of grilled corn and guitar chords.
The MASP art museum is the symbol of the avenue.
Perched on concrete piles, it was designed by the Italian Lina Bo Bardi in the 1960s, thus creating visibility on the neighboring park and a place of exchange in the public space.
An architectural gesture, but also a political one after the military coup of 1964 which muzzled freedom of expression.
Further on, stand the Japan House cultural center, recently designed by architect Kengo Kuma, and the
“
São Paulo is a chaotic city.
It lacks personality, but that's precisely what makes its personality
,” remarks Paulista Isay Weinfeld, one of Brazil's best-known contemporary architects.
Many buildings are secure.
They are surrounded by walls and devoid of open gardens.
Inspired by cinema (Tati, he says, is his “master”), his name is associated with the famous Fasano restaurants he designed (the last one was in New York).
We also owe him one of the Livraria bookstores (about to close) with giant windows, serving as a mobile library and entrance door at the same time, as well as the sublime boutique workshop of designer Paula Raia.
The city where concrete is king
Designed by the architect Rudy Ohtake, the Tomie Ohtake Institute offers rich exhibitions.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
Without the Ohtake family, São Paulo would not be the same.
The mother, Tomie (1913-2015), emerged as an artist at age 40 and achieved phenomenal success.
His colorful paintings and sculptures adorn the city.
His son Ruy (1938-2021), architect, is the author of the
Hotel Unique
, the Tomie Ohtake Institute, with high-flying exhibitions, and the marvelous Studio Tomie Ohtake, which can be visited by appointment via the 'Institute.
Rodrigo, his son in his late forties, also immersed himself in architecture: “
I had no choice.
I grew up eating concrete!
he said, laughing.
His uncle Ricardo, who became an exhibition curator after studying architecture (he too!), adds: “
Concrete is a material widely used here for its flexibility.
Le Corbusier had a great influence in Brazil.
Our architects are all his children
.
»
Signed by Ruy Ohtake, the Hotel Unique is an architectural experience to live.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
Not quite.
Eduardo Longo does not claim any school.
Barely visible from the street, his Casa Bola is a curiosity hailed by Rem Koolhaas.
This 1970s sphere, placed on the roof of the house, unrolls interiors all in roundness, white from floor to ceiling.
It has the sweetness of a utopian dream just like its twin, painted red which can be rented by the month.
Finally, a haven of coolness among the spears of concrete and glass, you have to discover the Parque do Ibirapuera, the local Hyde Park, which, on weekends, is invaded by locals who ride mechanics, gently flirting.
There, as if echoing the sensuality of the body, we appreciate the sharp lines of the Biennale, the auditorium and the curves of the Oca, the exhibition center of Oscar Niemeyer, the Brazilian master.
Practical notebook
TO SEE
Pinacoteca of Sao Paulo
Pinacoteca de São Paulo is the oldest art museum in the city.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
Founded in 1905, it is the oldest art museum in the city.
In the late 1990s, architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha brilliantly renovated the building, leaving exposed brick walls while creating steel walkways.
Astonishing as the exhibitions centered, mainly, on Brazilian artists from the 19th century to today.
Next door, the extension, Pinacoteca Contemporânea, should open at the end of 2022.
Pinacoteca.org.br
House of Vidro
Casa de Vidro, the first project of star architect, designer and scenographer Lina Bo Bardi.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
The first project of the star architect, designer and scenographer Lina Bo Bardi was her own house, mixing modernist and vernacular elements.
Today overgrown with vegetation, the floor once opened up to the sky, responding then to the blue tiled floor and welcoming the furniture she had designed.
Phone.
: + 55 11 3744 9902.
portal.institutobardi.org
TO STROLL
SESC Pompeia
SESC Pompeia, a factory transformed into a center for leisure and culture.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
There is something theatrical and rough in this factory transformed into a center of leisure and culture.
The architect Lina Bo Bardi has kept the original buildings, adding an impressive eleven-storey reinforced concrete tower, where exhibitions are held (
Amazonia
by Sebastião Salgado until July 31), readings, workshops, etc.
Tel.
: +55 11 3871 7700;
sescsp.org.br
Paula Raia
Paula Raia's workshop and boutique in a concrete cube.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
At the request of his fashion designer client, the architect Isay Weinfeld brought the workshop and the boutique together under the same roof in an elegant concrete cube.
Take the opportunity to stroll along the street which has daring boutique architectures.
paularaia.com
TO TASTE
The Dengo Chocolates factory
The Dengo Chocolates factory has set up a shop on the ground floor, along with a delicious hot chocolate bar.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
The Matheus Farah e Manoel Maia Arquitetura agency has set up a shop on the ground floor, coupled with a delicious hot chocolate bar.
There is no better place to observe the refining of the beans which arrive through transparent conduits in a central atrium.
On the first, we produce our personalized tablets and, on the second, we have lunch on a charming terrace.
2-course menu from €13.
Phone.
: +55 11 91018 9842;
dengo.com.br
Aizome
Aizomê, the restaurant of chef Telma Shiraishi.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
After the spiritual foods of the exhibitions at Japan House follow the foods of chef Telma Shiraishi.
Its contemporary cuisine is also a way of paying homage to the Japanese community in São Paulo, the second largest outside of Japan.
Main course from €12.
Phone.
: +55 11 2222 1176 (extension 2);
japanhousesp.com.br
DREAM
Unique Hotel
The Unique Hotel and its 7.5 meter door opening onto a 25 meter high space.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
It bears its name well.
This building, in the shape of an inverted arch, offers an architectural experience signed Ruy Ohtake.
You enter through a 7.5 meter door opening onto a space 25 meters high.
The elevator ?
As dark as the corridors that lead to the bright and well thought out rooms.
The roof terrace is topped with a bar and a swimming pool adjoining the restaurant, which offers one of the most beautiful views of the city.
From €360 per double room.
hotelunique.com
Rosewood Sao Paulo
The Rosewood São Paulo celebrates Brazilian culture, from nature to contemporary art and craftsmanship.
Eric Martin for Le Figaro
Barely opened, this hotel has become the darling of the city.
Everything here celebrates Brazilian culture, from nature to contemporary art and craftsmanship.
A subtle luxury dresses the rooms with sublime bathrooms in local marble.
Among the restaurants, we will happily dip into the dishes to share at the Taraz table with the flavors of South America.
From €500 per double room. Phone. :+55 11 3797 0500;
rosewoodhotels.com
Read alsoWe pushed the doors of the Rosewood São Paulo, a hotel homage to the Atlantic Forest
GO
LATAM Airlines, the largest South American airline group, operates 6 direct flights per week between Paris (Charles de Gaulle) and São Paulo (Guarulhos).
Round trip from €703 in Economy and €2,655 in Premium Business offering 180° reclining sleeper seats.
Good to know:
the company's VIP Lounges are accessible to LATAM Business and First Class passengers or Oneworld members.
In addition, a day pass (paid on site) allows other passengers to enter several LATAM lounges for 24 hours.
Open 24 hours a day, the one in São Paulo offers different spaces for eating, having fun, relaxing, sleeping and working.
It also has showers.
A specialist in trips to Brazil,
Les Maisons du Voyage
(Figaro group) celebrates its 30th birthday this year.
The agency offers a combined Rio & São Paulo around design and art.
The visits, accompanied by a French-speaking guide in São Paulo, offer the discovery of the MASP, the building of the architect Lina Bo Bardi (housing a rich collection of Brazilian artists of the 20th century).
In Rio, they include the MAC, the contemporary art museum with vertiginous and futuristic curves, imagined by Oscar Niemeyer.
“City break: Rio & São Paulo design”, tailor-made trip of 9 days / 6 nights, flights, accommodation and transfers from €1,990.
Info and reservations on maisonduvoyage.com