Halfway between Rio and Sao Paulo, in the south-east of Brazil, Paraty is a sumptuously preserved small port.
This village is often recommended as a pleasant stopover.
In reality, it is worth every detour, and a stay there is never long enough.
In addition to its historical charm, it is an ideal starting point to access the natural splendors of the Costa Verde, a unique ecosystem classified as a UNESCO heritage site, combining tropical mountains, dream beaches and breathtaking waterfalls.
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Brazil: the
Figaro travel guide
Its old town, heritage of the golden age
Whether you stroll along the always lively port or in the pedestrian center paved with round stones, you are immediately seduced by this city which has kept the magnificence of its colonial past.
In the 17th century, Paraty represented the last stage of the gold route, and wealthy merchants had tall houses built there, structured with woodwork, with beautiful interior gardens.
This heritage being preserved with the greatest care, the walls are flamboyant white, and the multicolored wooden doors follow a skilfully codified palette, with shades of blue, yellow and red which give an elegant gaiety to the slightest touch. alley.
To structure the walk, find the four Baroque churches of the city.
Originally, each corresponded to a caste (white settlers, slaves, freedmen, etc.) Along the way, don't miss the low-cost weaving, gemstone and craft shops.
Its bay, its beaches and its islands by boat
Sunset at Ponta Negra.
Judith Sibony / Le Figaro
The town of Paraty has two beaches a few minutes from the center, but head straight for those that are only accessible by boat.
The bay has no less than three hundred islands around which you swim with colorful fish, starfish and turtles.
For 30 € per person in a collective schooner or 200 € per group in a privatized boat, we go in less than half an hour to enchanted beaches.
With or without coconut palms, with or without waves, rocky or sandy, there is something for everyone.
One of the most popular is Praia Vermelha.
Early in the morning, it is absolutely quiet.
You can also discover the islands by kayak (Araujo, Malvao), passing through the mangroves in the shade of the mangroves.
Unreal experience of calm and fusion with nature.
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Its jungle towards Praia do Sono
Praia do Sono beach is one of the most beautiful on the peninsula.
Judith Sibony / Le Figaro
As its name suggests, the Costa Verde is a "green" paradise, a reference to its emerald waters, but also to the omnipresence of a tropical forest unique in the world.
Before the arrival of Europeans in the 16th century, it extended along the entire Brazilian coast.
Now Paraty Bay is one of the last strongholds.
All the sumptuous beaches of the Joatinga peninsula are only accessible by boat or on foot, passing through this incredible jungle.
The first of the course, one of the most beautiful, is called Praia do Sono - beach of sleep.
It is one hour from Laranjeiras, the last point accessible by road (50 minutes by bus from the center of Paraty).
We think very strongly of Tarzan while walking on this steep path, eyes wide open in front of the century-old trees covered with vines, tropical flowers and giant butterflies.
At the bottom of the path, Praia do Sono awaits you with its warm waves, its fine sand, its rocks on which it is good to lie down to meditate on so many beauties, and its very friendly bars.
For the return to Paraty, you can take a boat for 10 €, or simply return to Laranjeiras through the forest at dusk.
The path is safe, and the twilight exalts the scents, the songs of birds and the enchanted atmosphere.
If you push the excursion until nightfall, fireflies will illuminate the ride for a moment of pure magic.
The melody of its waterfalls
The waterfalls are so numerous that you often enjoy them alone.
Adobe Stock/Leonardo
The hills and mountains surrounding Paraty are home to dozens of waterfalls - in Brazilian
cachoeira
.
They are so numerous that very often, we find ourselves alone, or almost.
Most of the beaches overlooked by the jungle are surrounded by streams, and when you go up them a little, you come across one of these idyllic waterfalls.
On the way to Praia Brava, a wave beach located just before Trindade (30 minutes from Paraty), just follow a small fork and the sound of water to find yourself in the middle of the Jungle Book, and relive the scene where Baloo boasts of the simple life by diving into crystal clear water.
Departing from Ponta Negra (one hour from Paraty by boat), a beautiful walk in the jungle leads to Saco Bravo, an unreal place where the waterfall and the sea meet.
You bathe voluptuously in a small natural pool carved in stone, contemplating the ocean.
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Her earthly delights
We make good food in Paraty.
Adobe Stock / Feomir
Back in town, we regain our strength thanks to the countless trailers that offer sweets for a few reals.
Coconut sweets, chocolate or maracuja (passion fruit) mousse cakes, tapioca pancakes.
For a feast, book an evening at Yara Castro and Richard Roberts (€50) in the historic center.
With typical and delicious dishes, these flamboyant retirees, who receive guests in their elegant interior, tell you about the history of the region: Indian influences (herbs and spices), African heritage (exotic fruits and vegetables) and European contributions (especially cheese).
Alongside Yara, her husband, originally from New York, will teach you how to make the best caipirinhas in town, with the precision of a chemical engineer (it was his job).
Intoxicating evening,
Practical notebook
GO
Paraty is equidistant between Rio and Sao Paulo, but prefer the second airport, more accessible by highway.
Then, count five hours by bus (Costa Verde company) or 3h30 by car (taxi: 60 €).
ASK ABOUT
For hiking or kayaking: paratyexplorer.com
For schooner excursions: choose your boat directly on the port, by negotiating a little.
OR SLEEP
Pousada Pardieiro (80 to 120 €) or this beautiful townhouse (350 € for 6 to 8 people)
GOOD TABLE
Dinner at Yara and Richard: chefbrasil.com/
