Mexico is not limited to the Yucatan Peninsula.
Once an area of intense conflict between the indigenous people and the government, the state of Chiapas is today a tourist destination that attracts history buffs, adventurers or free and creative spirits inspired by the model of self-management established in the 1990s by the Zapatista politico-military movement to rethink the society of tomorrow.
In recent years, barter, biodiversity preservation projects, sustainable agriculture... have emerged in the region, attracting committed travelers and generating a form of responsible and ethical tourism at the antipodes of the extreme industrialization experienced by Mexicans with Cancun .
Located in the south of the country, on the border with Guatemala, and spread over nearly 73,000 km2,
more than twice the size of Belgium, Chiapas has undeniable assets: crystal clear rivers, grandiose waterfalls, cenotes in the heart of the jungle, colorful cities with Spanish colonial architecture, wild Pacific coast and Mayan ruins scattered around almost everywhere in the territory.
The traditions, inherited from the local indigenous community, which represents around a quarter of the population, also attract lovers of craftsmanship.
If in recent years, Mexico has climbed into the ten most popular international destinations, Chiapas is by far the flagship region for trips off the beaten track.
Spanish colonial architecture, wild Pacific coast and Mayan ruins scattered all over the territory.
The traditions, inherited from the local indigenous community, which represents around a quarter of the population, also attract lovers of craftsmanship.
If in recent years, Mexico has climbed into the ten most popular international destinations, Chiapas is by far the flagship region for trips off the beaten track.
Spanish colonial architecture, wild Pacific coast and Mayan ruins scattered all over the territory.
The traditions, inherited from the local indigenous community, which represents around a quarter of the population, also attract lovers of craftsmanship.
If in recent years, Mexico has climbed into the ten most popular international destinations, Chiapas is by far the flagship region for trips off the beaten track.
Read alsoWhen to go to Mexico?
The best period, region by region
Natural wonders that deserve
Agua Azul, a protected site on which, thanks to the surrounding rivers, emerald-colored waterfalls form in the dry season.
Secretaría de Turismo del Gobierno de México
Chiapas is a prime exploration ground for adventurers.
Camping around the
Miramar lagoon
, going from the estuary to the ocean at
Boca del Cielo
, approaching the turquoise waterfalls of
Agua Azul
, criss-crossing the
Río La Venta
river in a canoe… The natural nuggets are well deserved often with long hikes, walls to be abseiled down or journeys aboard a fishing boat to cross the mangroves under the flights of herons.
At stake ?
The promise of preserved paradises, especially if you visit them outside the weekend.
Preserved
Mayan cities
The ancient Mayan site of Bonampak, located in the middle of the jungle near the border with Guatemala, has many temples and very well preserved murals, which make it a unique and famous archaeological site.
Oksana Belikova
Located in the heart of the Maya biosphere, an area shared between southern Mexico, Belize and Guatemala, the state of Chiapas is full of pre-Columbian archaeological sites that are much less frequented than those of the Caribbean peninsula.
Among them: the area of
Palenque
, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and renowned as one of the richest in the region for the quality of conservation of its pyramids;
the enigmatic and very little visited ruins of
Toniná
and the almost intact murals of the ancient Mayan city of
Bonampak
, located in the middle of the jungle, in an area populated by Mayan descendants.
San Cristóbal de las Casas, picturesque and activist town
The Real de Guadalupe pedestrian street, in San Cristóbal de las Casas, where a series of small typical cafes, flowery patios and shops selling local products.
Maeva Terroy / Le Figaro
Colonial city perched on the heights of Chiapas, at 2200 meters above sea level, San Cristóbal de las Casas is visited every year by a crowd of Mexican and international tourists.
Its bohemian spirit and its small cobbled streets punctuated by houses sheltering pretty patios are seductive, as are its many churches and cathedrals colored or decorated with carved motifs.
Cradle of the Zapatista movement initiated in 1994 to defend the interests of the natives against the expropriation of their lands, the city has retained a small rebellious side.
The hooded dolls, symbol of the revolutionary organization, are displayed on every street corner;
there are many murals denouncing social or ecological issues and products (honey, jams, natural medicine, etc.) labeled “Zapatista”,
Indigenous traditions still very present
Woman selling her community's embroidered clothing, pillowcases and table runner.
Maeva Terroy / Le Figaro
Impossible to visit the villages around San Cristóbal de las Casas or selva
Lacandona
without being captivated by the colorful traditional clothes of the local populations.
The fabrics, embroidered with designs varying from one community to another, are made by hand from wool that is dyed naturally, with minerals, seeds or lemon juice.
Certain rituals inherited from the Mayas are also observed among the indigenous Chiapanecas communities.
This is the case of religious rituals with a backdrop of sacrifices: in the
church of San Juan de Chamula
, filled with thousands of incandescent candles, there are no priests but shamans appointed to animate ceremonies punctuated by the sacrifices of live chickens. A puzzling visit!
A typical gastronomy
To taste the real local cuisine, nothing better than the popular canteens of the covered markets.
Maeva Terroy / Le Figaro
Renowned for its coffee, whose fincas are accessible by hiking or cycling via a dedicated road, Chiapas is also one of the three main Mexican cocoa producing states.
Hot chocolate, a drink consumed in Mayan times, is prepared with water and spices and very often goes well with coffee accompanied by a dry biscuit prepared not with butter but with pork fat.
The cocoa even covers the filling of the
tamales
, portion of corn topped with meat or vegetables wrapped in a banana leaf and then steamed.
As in all of Mexico, meat holds an important place in the local gastronomy.
In Chiapa de Corzo, it's hard to miss the salted beef then grilled and topped with a pumpkin seed sauce.
In Upper Chiapas, where the winter evenings are cold, the pork shoulder is braised in the oven for hours in a broth seasoned with cinnamon and chilli, then served
pulled pork
style , in tacos, covered with a little drippings.
Read alsoTaco, the full Mexican pancake
SEE ALSO -
Mexico: discovery on a Mayan site of a "scientific treasure"
Practical notebook
Go
From Paris CDG, Air France offers direct flights to Cancún.
From there, take a domestic flight to Tuxtla de Gutierrez then, ideally, rent a car to explore the region: public transport is not always practical.
Inquire
http://www.turismochiapas.gob.mx