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From Metzgorno to Azrieli: Southern Italy on the Plate Israel today

2022-05-19T11:15:33.377Z


From the tortellini, through the risotto to the classic tiramisu - the passion that fills the southern Italian cuisine creates a "joy of eating" that is not found elsewhere • A visit to the street food kingdom of the boot country


Italy is one of the countries with the most diverse food in the world, and the food in the south of the boot country is not at all similar to the food in the northern provinces.

Each province in southern Italy has its own delicacies, and southern Italy can be defined as the region with the most joy of life and passion, creating what I call "eating joy".

In the south, which is considered a poorer region compared to northern Italy, the lifestyle is simple and the dishes are not particularly complex, but no matter how you look at it - Italian food just makes you happy.

To bring something of this joy of eating here, a "DNA" complex was recently opened in the Azrieli Mall, where there are four street food stalls, each with its own uniqueness and chef.

One of the stalls is "MEZZO PORTO" by Jonathan Sharvit, with whom my connection was born in "Chef Games".

Dreaming in Italian.

Yossi Sheetrit and Jonathan Sharvit, Photo: Assaf Carla

Jonathan was in my group and we have been in touch ever since, as my work as a mentor for the contestants in my group in the program continues long after the cameras are turned off.

Jonathan offers a concept of flavors from the southern cuisine, or as the sunny part of the boot country is called - "Muzgorno".

Jonathan's knowledge and experience produce dishes that represent the street food kingdom of southern Italy.

Moist tomato tomatoes

A ball of rice from Naples.

Moist tomato tomatoes, Photo: Assaf Carla

Suffle is a stuffed rice ball, which is deep-fried and comes all the way from Naples.

This version is a ball of risotto coated in bread crumbs.

Materials:

  • 100 grams chopped leeks

  • 100 grams of chopped shallots

  • 3 cloves chopped garlic

  • 2 tablespoons tomato concentrate

  • 150 grams of butter

  • 200 grams of tomato sauce

  • ½1 liter vegetable stock for cooking (hot)

  • 50 grams of round rice

  • 2 sage leaves

  • ½ A glass of white wine

  • 100 grams of Parmesan

  • 200 grams of grated mozzarella cheese

  • Salt

For frying:

  • Frying oil

  • White flour

  • 1 beaten egg

  • Breadcrumbs

Heat a medium saucepan over low heat, add a little butter and sauté the leeks and onions lightly.

Add the garlic and sage, mix, and after 3-2 minutes add the wine and sauté.

Add the rice, tomato concentrate and tomato sauce and mix lightly.

Sprinkle the hot stock until the rice is covered, stirring constantly.

When the rice is cooked almost until it is ready (about 80-70 percent) add the rest of the butter, parmesan, mozzarella and sage leaves, and adjust the salt seasoning if necessary. When everything is melted to a uniform mass, refrigerate it for about three hours and prepare equal balls weighing 100 grams each.

Flour each ball with white flour, dip in the beaten egg, coat with bread crumbs and deep fry in oil in a preheated pan to 165 degrees, until golden.

It can be served with any "sauce" you like, even old-fashioned sour cream.

Ricotta tortillas in sage butter

Perfect connection with the sauce.

Ricotta tortilla in sage butter, Photo: Assaf Carla

It is impossible to say Italy without making pasta, and of course every region in Italy has its own special pasta recipes, as well as the match between the type of pasta and the sauce.

The ingredients for the pasta dough:  

• 200 grams of flour 00     

• 200 grams of smolina flour     

• 4 whole eggs     

• 3 egg yolks     

• 1 tablespoon olive oil     

• 1 teaspoon salt     

• 1 tablespoon water

To fill:

  • 250 grams of ricotta cheese

For frying:

  • 100 grams of butter

  • 6 sage leaves

  • 3 cloves of peeled and crushed garlic

  • Grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Mix the flours and form a hole in the center of the bowl.

Pour the eggs and egg yolks together with the oil and salt into the center of the hole and stir everything slowly, until completely mixed.

Put the mass until a uniform dough is obtained, wrap in cling film and place in the refrigerator for half an hour.

Open the dough in a pasta machine until step number 7 or roll very thinly, to a thickness of about half a centimeter or even slightly less. Cut the dough into equal squares, pour a dot of ricotta cheese in the center of each square and fold so that the edges do not kiss each other. Double "hat".

In a large skillet, lightly fry the butter, sage leaves and crushed garlic cloves.

Boil a pot with water and salt, cook the pasta for about a minute and a half, add it to the pan and fry lightly until connected with the sauce.

When finished, you can drag Parmesan over.

Tiramisu

Sweet treat.

Tiramisu, Photo: Assaf Carla

Here we have sinned a little against the geographical truth, since this traditional Italian dessert is not southern in origin, but it is just so delicious that all the provinces in the boot country have adopted it into their lap.

Materials:

• 150 grams of protein     

• 120 grams of yolk     

• 150 grams of white sugar     

• 450 grams of mascarpone cheese     

150 ml sweet cream     

• ½1 gelatin sheets (optional)

For the biscuit layer:

  • 1 packet of biscuit cookies for tiramisu

  • 5 servings of espresso

  • 1 teaspoon coffee extract

  • 1 tablespoon quality brandy

Remove the mascarpone from the refrigerator about half an hour before preparation.

Half an hour later, "open" the mascarpone in a mixer using a kneading hook for a minute and set aside.

If you choose to use gelatin, it should be melted now.   

Whip the sweet cream to the texture of a stable whipped cream and keep refrigerated.

Beat the egg yolk with half the amount of sugar until you get an airy, light and apple foam, and add the mascarpone while stirring slowly.

When the mass is uniform add the gelatin, mix to equalize temperatures between the textures and add the whipped cream while folding.

Whip the protein with half the amount of sugar left until an airy white foam (not too stable), and fold it into the overall mass.

Now, for assembly and serving: Prepare the five espresso dishes, mix with the coffee extract and brandy, and dip the biscuit cookies in the liquid for a few seconds.

Arrange a layer of cookies on the bottom of the glass or serving bowl, pour from the mass to half the height of the glass or bowl and repeat the operation again.

Refrigerate for four hours in the refrigerator, and just before serving, sprinkle a little cocoa powder on top. 

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Source: israelhayom

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