Since the band at Bocuse, since the Savoys, the Ducasses quick to scratch their names on the front of the jacket, since the chefs pull the tablecloth to them and make themselves stars, they have been erased.
Dare we say invisible?
Above all, do not reproach the cooks for having taken their revenge at the same time as they were trying the chance to win a front of the stage, but recognize that we have somewhat forgotten these sincere restaurateurs, hosts who, without ever holding the tails of the saucepans, none the less support their house.
The new Parisian guard seems to be rediscovering a taste for it (Lanher, Manigold, Compagnon, etc.) but, on the side of this Agapé, for nearly twenty years, it has been Laurent Lapaire, as discreet as he is unstoppable in holding his address to the cycle of young chefs who, with him, come and go as their talent progresses.
A chef every four years,
and Agapé for having invented the table in residence well before its time, for having set up the most chic of the capital's gastronomic label labs.
We…
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