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The Wine of the Capital: A Visit to the Wineries That Make Jerusalem Israel today

2022-05-25T05:35:29.274Z


Jerusalem Day, where the capital is raised, is already here, and it's just the time to get to know more about the story behind the wineries in Jerusalem or around it.


In a conversation I had recently with a friend, no matter which side of the political map, about Jerusalem Day, he tossed - 'I have no problem with Jerusalem Day but only with the western side of the city'.

My attempt to explain to him the absurdity of this statement, since the Western side was in Israeli possession even before the day the city was liberated and that the whole essence of the day is the unification of its two parts and our return to the Old City and the Western Wall, did not succeed.

go figure.

There is a consensus regarding the Jerusalem wineries in particular.

If in the past 'Jerusalem Winery' was synonymous with producers of sweetened and cheap Kiddush wines, then over the years the latter have also joined the quality revolution of Israeli wine, and their produce is very popular and highly appreciated in professional tastings and competitions.

Today, only one winery remains to operate in the city's municipal area - 'Jerusalem Wineries' in Atarot (and we will not talk about it this time), while the older wineries have moved to the periphery, some to the east and some to the west.

Who knows, maybe this is the beginning of the fulfillment of the prophecy of Sages who determined "Jerusalem will spread to Damascus"


. Something, do they even consider themselves more Jerusalemites - and we came back drunk and thrilled.Once a Jerusalemite, always a Jerusalemite.

Zion


Winery Zion Winery, whose story began more than seventy-four years ago in the Old City of Jerusalem, is also the only one that is not only owned by the family but also actually managed by them.

Yossi Shor serves as CEO and Zvika Shor, his sixth-generation cousin, is the winemaker. Since 1982, they have been a 15-minute drive from the city center, in the Mishor Adumim industrial area, near the new D-CITY fashion mall.

Zvi Shor, Zion Winery, Photo: Yachz

"I still remember the building of our old winery that was located in the basement of the Beit Israel neighborhood of Jerusalem," says Zvika, "where my late father served as a winemaker.

Before Pesach, he used to send me, a young boy, to a cellar, to a specific barrel that he kept especially in a hidden room, so that I could fill it with rare wine for the 'four glasses' of Seder night. " , Accurate and extracted from vineyards that stretch from the Golan Heights to the Arad Plateau.

These days they are even working on preparing a plot to enlarge the winery and establish a visitor center.

"We are Jerusalemites and will always remain so, and the family heritage is a candle to our feet, as we pour innovation and technology into it," he concludes.

Our recommendation - Rosa Imperial, 2021 - Rosa has become the bon-ton of the wine world in recent years but while many wineries produce it acidic and sharp and sometimes at outrageous prices, in Zion they went in the opposite direction and made it accessible to everyone.

This is a semi-dry wine produced from cylindrical Grenache grapes, with a pale salmon hue and a moderate alcohol level (12%).

In both nose and mouth, plenty of sweet and graceful fruitiness (strawberry, lychee, peach) combined with fresh sourness.

It is served in a 'half' bottle, which contains only 375 ml and is sealed with a screw cap. Just pull it out of the refrigerator and open it in a round. And the price? End!

Tepperberg


Winery made its big leap about sixteen years ago, when Moti Tepperberg, a fifth-generation Jerusalem wine producer, took the winery, dismantled it, built a new and modern winery near Kibbutz Tzora and turned it into one of the largest and leading wineries in Israel.

The family's original winery, which was also in the Old City, was established in 1870. The fourth generation had already come out of the walls and located the winery in the famous 'exit round', but Mutti realized that this was not enough either - the world is changing, the industry is evolving - Rauchberger, who learned the secrets of the profession in California and served as a leading winemaker at Carmel Winery.

In the years that followed, Olivia Perthi, who came from Bordeaux, and Danny Friedenberg from New York joined.

A real grouping of postcards.

Moti Tepperberg, Photo: Shani Brill

"As a family we still live in Jerusalem," says Motti, "but the style of the winery is modern, as our winemakers, each of whom came from a different background and school of winemaking, complement each other in wonderful synergy."

How does the younger generation fit into the winery?

In other words - how do you plan to preserve the family for future generations?


Tepperberg: "A few years ago our adult children went their separate ways and each tried their own direction in entrepreneurship and business, and now we are in the process of regrouping, individually examining each child's path and ultimately seeing who will continue to carry the family torch."

Our recommendation -

Inspired Glued and Friends, 2021 - from a screen installed from 55% glued grapes, 25% Gewurztraminer, 20% Franz Colomber.

Debuki is an ancient Israeli variety, which gives a rich nose wine, along with the aromatic Gewurztraminer and Franz.

A subdued floral aromatic line, sour citrus flavors and a bit of spicy lychee and pineapple.

The texture is soft and pleasant, juicy and fresh.

fun.

(75 NIS)

The Creator


Winery The 'Creator' winery also belongs to a branch of the Jerusalem bull family, and grew out of the old Arza wineries.

The winery, owned by Moti Shor and his son Elhanan, has been managed in recent years by Erel Barkai, with the main winemaker being Philip Lichtenstein, a veteran and esteemed winemaker who previously managed Carmel Zichron Wineries.

Erel Barkai, CEO of the Creator Winery, Photo: Eyal Keren

"I do not know what a Jerusalem wine is," Barkai tells us.

"Our wines are Mediterranean, both in the grape varieties from which we produce them and in the making techniques, but certainly the traditional and heritage aspect of the family that started in the Old City exists and is present in our winery. And also in the boutique wine shops. "

One of the things that sets you apart from other wineries is the connection to art.


Barkai: "Art is a derivative of our brand. We respect both the winemaker who creates our wines and other artists in other fields. Last Passover, for example, we illustrated on our wine labels leading artists, including Keren Peles, Aviv Geffen, Amos Tamam and more. We also sent them a bottle, in appreciation of their work. We also created a "Freedom through Art" campaign - a series of online videos with young artists telling about their experience of freedom, with items they created printed on our wines in a limited and numbered series sold exclusively on the winery's website. "The next step - a connection with Jerusalem artists, young and young at heart. It will be a triangular connection between wine, the content world of contemporary art and Jerusalem."

Our recommendation - Otter White 2019 - from a complex screen full of surprises installed from 60% and Ionia from Samaria along with 40% Rosan from the Negev.

The wine was aged for 20 months (!) In barrels.

A deep yellowish tint, with a buttery nose and nutmeg, a surprising greenish herbaceous acidity in the mouth, combined with a round texture and creamy and truffle flavors.

Expensive but from the major leagues.

An artist's hand is indeed evident.

(180 NIS)

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Source: israelhayom

All news articles on 2022-05-25

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