Debate about Russn-Maß: Do Munich residents have to do without it because of the Ukraine war?

Created: 06/23/2022, 08:44

By: Claudia Schuri

The Russn-Mass triggered a debate in Munich about the Ukraine war.

© Peter Kneffel/dpa

Is the Russian measure still socially acceptable in times of the Ukraine war?

In Munich, there is a debate about the mixed drink made from wheat beer and soda.

Munich – The drink has a long tradition in Bavarian beer gardens, like obzada or sausage salad: especially on hot days, Munich residents like to order a Russn beer.

But what does this treat have to do with Russia?

And do the guests have to do without it during the war of aggression against Ukraine?

First of all: No, the beer for the "Russn" does not come from Russia - and is still offered in the bars.

Russn-Maß: Munich hosts want to continue serving the drink

"In the beginning, customers still joked about it a bit," says Lukas Spendler, innkeeper in Hirschau.

"But it's back to normal now." Because the mixed drink made of wheat beer and lemonade has nothing to do with the war - "and it's just part of it," he says.

Christian Schottenhamel from Nockherberg sees it that way too.

"The beer and the name have a longer tradition than the war," he says.

He hasn't had any problems or arguments about the name.

Hofbräukeller boss Silja Wardrobe-Steinberg is also relaxed.

"We didn't have any questions or complaints about it," she emphasizes.

Gregor Lemke, host at the Augustiner Klosterwirt and spokesman for the Munich city center hosts, also explains: "It is not noticeable that the drink is sold less or more." Sometimes there is a small saying - but nothing more.

"Der Russ' is an old Munich tradition," he says.

"It's still popular and a wonderful summer drink."

The situation is similar for most Munich hosts.

The demand for and use of the drink have not changed since the war, reports Karolina Wojdyla, spokeswoman for the Bavarian Hotel and Restaurant Association Dehoga.

"The drink is still ordered, especially since the origin probably has nothing to do with the Russians themselves."

Russn measure: drink name no discrimination

In principle, names that refer to nationalities could "of course be problematic," as a spokesman for "Before," the counseling center for those affected by right-wing and group-related misanthropic violence and discrimination in Munich, explains.

"The risk is there," he says.

"But we haven't had any inquiries about the drink yet."

Even with Micky Wenngatz from the organization "Munich is colorful" it was not an issue: "No one has contacted us who felt it was discrimination," she reports.

Ukrainian Daria Onyshchenko, one of the organizers of the Ukraine demos in Munich, also takes a relaxed view of things.

"I haven't heard any complaints yet," she says, emphasizing: "Nor are we in favor of discrimination against the Russian people."

Russn-Mass: The origin of the popular mixed drink

But where does the Russn mass come from?

According to the Bavarian Brewers' Association, there are various theories here.

The most common says that it was created in the wake of the 1918 revolution.

After the First World War, the communist supporters of a soviet republic met in Munich's Mathäser cellar - and mixed the wheat beer with clear lemonade.

It was unclear whether they had run out or whether the participants should be prevented from drinking too much alcohol.

In any case, the proponents of a soviet republic were referred to as "Russn" in Munich vernacular - and the term was possibly adopted for their favorite drink.

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Another explanation is that weaker beers had to be brewed during the inflation of 1919-1923 due to the lack of raw materials.

This worked better with top-fermented beers, which is why it was mainly wheat beer - and that was stretched out with lemonade when it was served.

Because Russian workers liked the sweet drink, it got its name.

According to a third theory, the mixed drink could originally have been called "Riesen-Mass" because the wheat beer foamed up when it was mixed and therefore looked "huge".

This could then have become the "Russ'n-Mass" during the Nazi era.