Two days in Palm Springs, a cool retro oasis two hours from Los Angeles

With its azure blue skies, year-round sunshine, and rows of palm trees lining its straight avenues, Palm Springs has been attracting travelers for more than a century.

From the 1940s, Hollywood stars came here to hide their secret passions, and organized memorable parties around the swimming pools of their modernist houses.

Epicenter of this architectural current, the city has retained its retro chic charm thanks to these buildings that have become iconic.

It has even become a veritable open-air museum in the “Desert Modernism” style, celebrated twice a year during

(in February and October).

The rest of the time, we enjoy nature with its mountains, canyons and natural hot springs, explore the desert, and cool off with a cocktail by the pool.

Because from

to

, life in Palm Springs rhymes with easy living.

To discover

• Trips to the United States: tours, hotels and tailor-made stays from our partners

The arrival

ACCESS

Between the San Jacinto Mountains and Joshua Tree National Park, Palm Springs is nestled in the hollow of the Coachella Valley.

To get there from France, the easiest way is to land in Los Angeles, then rent a car.

The oasis of Greater Palm Springs, which encompasses nine towns - Palm Springs, Desert Hot Springs, Cathedral City, Rancho Mirage, Palm Desert, Indian Wells, La Quinta, Indio and Coachella - is a two-hour drive from the City of Angels via Interstate 10, then California State 111. Upon arrival, stop at the Visitor Center, a building designed in 1963 by architect Albert Frey that was originally a gas station.

Its design that blends into the desert landscape will give you a taste of the modernist architectural style.

MOVE

Outside the center of Palm Springs, difficult to get around without a car in the agglomeration.

You can easily find free car parks, even in the city center if you don't park for more than one or two hours (read the signs carefully).

The city is also well served by Uber and Lyft VTC services.

MORE INFORMATIONS

California Tourist Office:

visitcalifornia.fr

Greater Palm Springs Visitor Center:

visitgreaterpalmsprings.com

What to do in Palm Springs right now?

HAVE

Palm Springs VillageFest

Every Thursday evening, the city's main thoroughfare becomes pedestrianized and hosts more than 180 stalls from local artisans, artists and farmers.

We stroll through this fair also known as the Palm Springs Street Fair to the sound of street concerts in search of original souvenirs - jewelry, Indian pottery, clothing... - to bring back from our trip.

Palm Springs VillageFest, Palm Canyon Drive, between Baristo and Amado Roads, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 320 3781.

THE GOOD TABLE

Sandfish Sushi & Whiskey

Like the decoration of the restaurant in the Japandi style, the original creations of chef Engin Onural merge Japanese and Scandinavian cuisines.

We love the signature rolls like the

made with spicy tuna, crabmeat and avocado seasoned with aioli and a zest of black truffle.

You also have to try

 pepper aioli

.

All the dishes can also be tasted in harmony with the very fine selection of whiskey on offer.

Signature dish: from €20.

Sandfish Sushi & Whiskey, 1556 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 537 1022.

THE HOTEL IN VIEW

Cacti

Les Cactus, a boutique hotel named after the song by Jacques Dutronc.

Laurence Ogiela / Le Figaro

“The whole world is a cactus…”

In Palm Springs, there are many cactuses and even a hotel named after the famous song by Jacques Dutronc.

As soon as you enter, the tone is set: a

very

decoration with zebra rugs, rattan furniture, and green and pastel pink walls.

The 27 rooms of this boutique hotel are like the lobby: bright with light wood panels, and cacti subtly reminiscent even on the embroidery of the pillowcases.

Night from 238 €.

Les Cactus, 555 S. Warm Sands Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92264. Tel.

: +1 760 422 5500.

DAY 1: MODERNIST ARCHITECTURE

Morning

Palm Springs is a godsend for lovers of architecture and design.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

Before setting off to explore the world's largest concentration of “Mid Century Modern” style houses, treat yourself to a real American-style breakfast at

.

Accompany your eggs Benedict or your pancakes with slices of bacon flavored with jalapeño,

or cinnamon…house specialty.

mimosa

(prosecco and orange juice), or the spicy Bloody Mary, to be in the

Palm Springs

Sated, it's time to join Kurt Cyr of

for a private tour of the modernist architecture the city is famous for.

It takes you to explore the historic districts of

where once resided Judy Garland, Clark Gable, Marilyn Monroe, Kirk Douglas, Elizabeth Taylor and Frank Sinatra.

From the 1940s to the 1960s, Hollywood stars took refuge in Palm Springs, far from the gossip and stranglehold of the studios, because their contracts specified that they could not travel more than two hours away from movie sets.

They had houses built there by the greatest architects of the time: Richard Neutra, Albert Frey, John Lautner or Stewart Williams, disciples of Le Corbusier and Frank Lloyd Wright.

For this Hollywood elite, they invented a new architectural style,

 : houses with horizontal and symmetrical lines with panoramic bay windows, rounded rooms and roofs in the shape of butterfly wings.

Most of these residences are private and closed to the public, but thanks to his relations Kurt allows you to penetrate into the intimacy of some.

On the other hand, to enter

with its piano-shaped swimming pool, built by E. Stewart Williams in 1947 for Frank Sinatra, you will have to rent it... 2000 € per night.

Lunch break

Chi Chi, the restaurant at the Avalon Hotel once frequented by all-Hollywood.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

For Hollywood glamour, dine poolside at

, the Avalon Hotel restaurant once frequented by Joan Crawford, Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe.

Sunglasses screwed on your nose, opt for a turmeric latte (€8) or fresh coconut water.

On the plate, an avocado toast (€18) or a bowl of acai and chia seeds with mango (€18), Californian diet requires.

Afternoon

The Palm Springs Art Museum, a brutalist structure designed by E. Stewart Williams in 1974 that blends into the desert landscape.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

Continue the Modernist exploration with the

, a Brutalist structure envisioned by E. Stewart Williams in 1974 that blends into the desert landscape.

This modern art museum houses a rich collection of works by contemporary artists on the theme of the desert, but also pieces by Picasso, Chagall, Calder, Warhol... It has an annex,

, also designed by Williams in 1961, which has a collection of modernist furniture, drawings and photographs.

The museum also manages visits to

, the private house of architect Albert Frey designed in 1963 as a perfect example of desert Modernism: it hides itself in the rocky relief by integrating rocks and cacti into its architecture.

Under the spell of this retro way of life that blows over the whole city, then head to the

and its trendy boutiques to unearth vintage and colorful souvenirs.

At

, the multicolored posters of artist and designer Josh Agle, known as Shag, humorously illustrate the hedonistic lifestyle of Palm Springs in the 1960s. At

the must-have fashion retailer, get swimsuits and dresses in bright colors and colorful patterns essential for a pool

.

Evening

For dinner, book at

, a

with a chic and glamorous atmosphere.

First, treat yourself to a cocktail, a Mr. Lyons Honest Martini (€15) or an Absinthe Daiquiri (€15), at the bar hidden behind heavy

Then, the house burger and bistro fries (€24), beef Wellington and mushroom duxelle (€55) or tender filet mignon (€55) will delight lovers of quality meat.

DAY 2: INDIAN CANYONS AND HOT WATER SPRINGS

Morning

The hippie chic terrace of the King's Highway.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

To start this day well under the sign of well-being and the energy of the desert, enjoy a chia seed pudding (€14) or veggie eggs on the hippie chic terrace of the

.

This authentic diner is the restaurant of the Ace Hotel & Swim Club, a former motel from the 1960s converted into a hype boutique hotel with vintage furniture and bohemian clientele.

The rangers in charge of the reserve offer guided tours and have reconstructed wooden huts similar to those once used by the Indians.

Laurence Ogiela / Le Figaro

Then set off to discover the wild nature of the canyons that surround Palm Springs.

No need to go far: a ten-minute drive from the main artery of Palm Canyon Drive, you are already in the middle of the arid stone desert of the

Indian Reservation .

It is in the midst of these preserved ancestral lands that the lush oasis of

is located .

At the bottom of a ravine stand huge bushy palms, the highest density in the world of this species,

.

Rich in natural springs, the area was once inhabited by the Cahuilla Indians and remains of irrigation canals and stone shelters can still be seen.

The rangers in charge of the reserve offer guided tours and have reconstructed wooden huts similar to those once used by the Indians.

You can venture with them, or alone, on the many hiking trails, but don't forget to bring water.

After the walk, you are free to picnic on the tables in the healthy shade of the palm trees, or choose a more comfortable option in town.

Lunch break

An intimate retreat with a rustic decoration built in 1952, the Sparrows Lodge was one of the first hotels in Palm Springs.

Entirely renovated in 2021, it offers a renowned locavore restaurant:

.

The new chef Sebastien Lowrey executes simple American cuisine based on fresh produce from the Coachella Valley (dishes between €15 and €24).

To be savored at the communal table d'hôtes overlooking the swimming pool.

Afternoon

At the exit of the city, the cable car which has the largest cabin in rotation of the world.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

Take to the skies to enjoy panoramic views of Palm Springs, the Coachella Valley, and Joshua Tree Park beyond.

Out of town

, the world's largest revolving cabin cable car, whisks you along Chino Canyon 2,800 meters above sea level in just ten minutes.

At the top, several terraces offer a 360 degree view.

Hiking trails of different levels allow you to explore the fauna and flora of the

mountains .

Plan a sweater because the temperature is much cooler at altitude than in the valley.

Azure Palm Hot Springs and Day Spa in Desert Hot Springs.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

Back in the desert heat, there's nothing like cooling off than diving into an azure blue pool.

Your choice of the one at your hotel or the one filled with spring water from the

in Desert Hot Springs.

Fifteen minutes by car from the center of Palm Springs, the small town is famous for its hot springs with relaxing properties and its many spas.

After a massage, what a delight to dive into the natural mineral water baths heated by geothermal energy at different temperatures, from 28 to 40 degrees, with the desert as a backdrop.

Evening

For dinner, the terrace at Eight4Nine Restaurant & Lounge in the Uptown Design District is ideal for seeing and being seen.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

Back downtown, to make sure you stay hydrated, head to

, the favorite bar of Frank Sinatra and his

.

Like the crooner in his time, treat yourself to a classic Martini while admiring the black and white photos of the stars who used to have their habits there.

For dinner, the terrace at

in the Uptown Design District is ideal for seeing and being seen.

On the menu: American classics like the Caesar salad (€16) as a starter and Mexican-inspired dishes like a Mesquite-smoked carne asada with red bean purée and corn pudding (€35).

Our address book in Palm Springs: restaurants, accommodation and shopping

WHERE TO HAVE A GOOD BREAKFAST?

Treat yourself to a real American breakfast at Cheeky's.

Visit Greater Palm Springs

Cheeky's, 622 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 327 7595.

King's Highway, Ace Hotel & Swim Club, 701 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 969 5777.

WHERE TO HAVE A DRINK?

Melvyn's, Ingleside Inn, 200 W. Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264. Tel.

: +1 760 325 2323.

RESTAURANTS

Chi Chi, Avalon Hotel, 415 S. Belardo Road, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 318 3005.

Mr. Lyons, 233 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92264. Tel.

: +1 760 327 1551.

The Barn Kitchen, Sparrows Lodge, 1330 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92264. Tel.

: +1 760 327 2300.

Eight4Nine Restaurant & Lounge, 849 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 325 8490.

SHOPPING

The Shag Store, 745 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 322 3400.

Trina Turk, 891 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 416 2856.

HAVE

Palm Springs Mod Squad, Modernist Architecture Private Tour, 90 minutes: €124.

Such.

: +1 760 469 9265.

Twin Palms, 1145 E. Via Colusa, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 888 451 0156.

Palm Springs Art Museum, 101 Museum Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 322 4800. Admission €13, free on Thursday evening.

Architecture and Design Center Edward Harris Pavilion, 300 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 423 5260. Admission €4.50, free on Thursday evening.

Frey House II, 686 Palisades Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 760 322 4800.

Aerial Tramway, 1 Tramway, Palm Springs, CA 92262. Tel.

: +1 888 515 8726. Ticket: €27.50.

Azure Palm Hot Springs and Day Spa, 67589 Hacienda Avenue, Desert Hot Springs, CA 92240. Tel.

: +1 760 251 2000. Access for the day: €65.

60-minute massage: from €119.

OR SLEEP ?

Dive Palm Springs

This eleven-room adults-only boutique hotel is an ode to the spirit of the French Riviera of the 1960s. Visit greater Palm Springs

This eleven-room adults-only boutique hotel is an ode to the spirit of the French Riviera of the 1960s. The rooms are set around an intimate garden with swimming pool and jacuzzi.

All have a “French Riviera” decor with cane furniture or black and white photos by Françoise Hardy from the yé-yé period.

A relaxation area with benches in striped fabric displays the hotel's leitmotif:

From €350 per night.

Dive Palm Springs, 1586 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92264. Tel.

: +1 760 323 2231.