In the last decade, men's fashion has experienced several earthquakes.
First, the gender revolution, that is, the introduction and assimilation of elements from the female wardrobe (from skirts to lace).
Later, the irruption of
streetwear
, which has normalized phenomena such as sneakers, sportswear and urban inspiration.
In turn, growing concern about climate change has ushered in a renewed interest in technology and sustainability.
At the men's fashion week in Paris, where the spring/summer 2023 collections were presented from June 21 to 26, there were no unexpected twists, but rather the realization that, at least until the next twist arrives Copernican —and in a context of political and economic turmoil— luxury brands have been able to integrate these revolutions into a new clothing normality.
In any case, there is no lack of ingenuity.
At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson has added two unusual technologies to his collection.
On the one hand, plants grown directly on garments and fabrics thanks to the technique developed by the Spanish Paula Ulargui Escalona.
The plants that were seen on the catwalk this Saturday were carefully cultivated during the 20 days prior to the show.
In addition, some garments included screens that reproduced images of nature from image banks.
"I'm interested in bringing nature and technology together," explained Anderson moments after the parade.
"The goal is to find ways to experiment with fashion and push it forward."
Four of Loewe's spring/summer 2023 men's collection proposals, presented in Paris on June 25.Daniele Oberrauch
The Northern Irish designer has been inspired by the interdisciplinary spirit of the Whole Earth Catalog (1968-1972), a fundamental editorial project in the American counterculture and an essential reference in the development of ecological awareness that, decades before the appearance of the Internet, sought provide free access to information of all kinds.
"Fashion should talk about these issues in a constructive way, trying to find the new," added Anderson.
The proposals, which start from the basic wardrobe and are transformed in various ways - inflating, wrinkling or aging with an ozone treatment - are, at the same time, faithful to the recent legacy of the house.
As Anderson points out, many are made of leather, the most emblematic material of the luxury firm of Spanish origin.
Louis Vuitton proposals for its spring/summer 2023 menswear collection, presented at a show in Paris on Thursday, June 23.
The conciliation of opposites is also present at Louis Vuitton after the death last November of Virgil Abloh, creative director of its men's line.
Next spring's collection bears the signature of the design team that worked with the American.
In a setting that evoked the world of children's games, garments and accessories in bright colors and motifs inspired by street art, comics or music videos of the eighties paraded on Thursday.
His designs, however, are at the antipodes of disposable consumption.
They are made with highly sophisticated printing techniques, handmade embroidery, crochet, leather modeling or hand-sewn beads.
In turn, its floral motifs evoke the origins of the French house,
Fashion show for the Dior Men Spring/Summer 2023 collection by designer Kim Jones on June 24 in Paris. Adrien Dirand
In Dior Men, the color is given by the figure of Duncan Grant, an artist from the Bloomsbury group.
Designer Kim Jones has made a link between Christian Dior's house in Granville, Normandy, France, and the house that Grant and artist Vanessa Bell decorated in Charleston, Sussex, UK, through a passion for gardening.
In fact, some of the most groundbreaking pieces in the collection unveiled on Friday are 3D-printed gardener hats.
The post-impressionist color of Grant's work is transferred to proposals that interpret the firm's classics —from the Bar jacket that Christian Dior created in 1947 to designs from the stage led by John Galliano—, to amazing hand-embroidered knitwear and gauze and semi-transparent veils that bring dreamlike and delicate airs to suits and jackets.
Tailoring is once again the star of the most relevant designs, also consolidating Jones' findings since his arrival at the French brand.
For example, his jackets with double lapels that extend into trompe l'oeil sleeves.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2023 collection show at Paris Men's Fashion Week on June 25. SARAH MEYSSONNIER (REUTERS)
It is not the only exercise in optimism.
Véronique Nichanian, who has been designing Hermès menswear collections for more than three decades, has created a luminous collection with holiday echoes.
There are graphic prints in the shape of animals, luxurious leather and neoprene sandals and suits whose upper fabric, die-cut with botanical motifs, reveals the underlying fabric in contrast.
Materials – suede, technical satin, poplin, canvas, cashmere or linen – translate into practical cuts and high-end craftsmanship.
The incorporation of technical clothing to the luxury repertoire has raised the standards of demand.
For his part, Craig Green, famous for his garments that incorporate straps, hidden pieces and transformable elements inspired by skydiving, military uniforms or tents, has presented a concentrated and delicate collection, with almost mystical aspirations: plain tones, bright colors and complex but more realistic garments than on previous occasions.
Three models during the parade of the new Dries Van Noten collection, on June 23 in Paris.Michel Euler (ap) / Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT (AfP)
If for much of his career Dries Van Noten has celebrated the beauty of nature and gardening, for next summer he is looking at other liberating spaces: subcultures and music.
Between the subversive elegance of the 1930s and the exaltation of the electronic scene of the 1980s and 1990s, the Belgian designer once again demonstrates his talent for proposing colours, prints and motifs capable of defining a season.
Models during the Marine Serre parade, on June 25, at the men's fashion week in Paris. JULIEN DE ROSA (AFP)
Also subversive is the Eden evoked by the French designer Marine Serre, who celebrated the sixth anniversary of her brand with a mixed parade on Saturday at a Paris athletics track to pay tribute to the champions of the causes she defends: sustainability -great part of its fabrics come from warehouse leftovers—, diversity and the exaltation of identity.
Her embossed terry cloth, her monogram print, and her sportswear confirm the persistence of the Y2K aesthetic, which celebrates early 21st century youth fashion.
Similarly, the house of Korean origin Wooyoungmi has commemorated two decades of parades in the French capital with a collection that extols its neat, geometric, colorful and urban imagery.
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