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On the Camargue salt mountains, the stunning Jacquemus parade

2022-06-28T17:38:35.176Z


The designer presented his fall-winter 2022-2023 show in his native South, at the Salin de Giraud. A powerful collection with the common theme of marriage, a few weeks before that of Simon Porte Jacquemus and his companion.


The decor is lunar, minimalist, breathtakingly beautiful.

A mountain of solidified salt, immaculate white, stands out against an azure sky, and in the distance the gaze is lost in the vast expanse of the Camargue salt marshes of a disconcerting pink tagada.

It is in his native south, at the Salin de Giraud, forty minutes from Arles, that Simon Porte Jacquemus has chosen to unveil his autumn collection – the independent designer continues to present his collections outside the official calendars –, some of which are in sales tomorrow.

The spectacular set involved moving and shaping 180,000 tons of salt over a month to create dazzling white hills that the models descended in a slow procession.

“I wanted something raw, simple and poetic”,

indicated the creator at the end of the parade.

An intention to the exact opposite of his previous fashion show “Le Splash” in Hawaii.

“At the time, I had gone in a pop direction, very colorful, which I disliked, I no longer recognized myself, analyzes with rare sincerity Simon Porte Jacquemus.

I wanted to start from scratch.”

In video, the Jacquemus fall-winter 2022-2023 fashion show

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With this collection, entitled “Le Papier”, the designer returns to the sources.

An eminently strategic choice at a time when his business is “exploding” in his own words and when it is important for him “to keep his feet on the ground”

.

He therefore finds this south where he grew up, and where his grandparents still live, present in the front row of this show.

He also revives the spirit of his most striking fashion shows

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"Les Santons" or "La Bomba" - and the codes that define Jacquemus.

"It's like a blank page, a renewal."

Show - Jacquemus - Le Papier Fall-Winter 2022-2023

In images, in pictures

See the slideshow59 photos

See the slideshow59 photos

The collection gives pride of place to a soft sensuality that the designer has the art of revealing with plunging necklines, low backs, bare backs, cutouts, ties that hang by a thread... femininity exults quietly, the body is glorified, sublimated.

It's a question of comfort and couture with these quilt vests or soft parkas that envelop like a reassuring cocoon or these second skin dresses whose cotton is pleated, draped, sculpted, embroidered or mixed with plaster as if to give life to another material.

The natural colors - white, sand, ocher - blend into the decor, only a few of the 70 silhouettes, in black, stand out like Chinese shadows on the white salt.

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Marriage is the red thread of this collection, a few weeks before the wedding, this summer, of designer Simon Porte Jacquemus and his companion.

Courtesy of Jacquemus

The common thread of marriage

Le Papier

is also the pursuit of an autobiography told in a collection.

In a few weeks, Simon Porte Jacquemus will get married and the emotion of this future event shines through in his entire collection.

“My boyfriend proposed to me last June, shortly before I started working on this show and there is this obsession with union in this show without being literal.”

Boys in linen suits parade with veils or tulle train belts.

The girls will get married in a simple polo shirt just adorned with a long twirling train, or with half-tulle skirts or even transparent tulle dresses.

Long earrings of embroidered flowers fly in the wind like delicate trains.

Victoria Beckham as a guest star

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English designer Victoria Beckham attended the show and congratulated Simon Porte Jacquemus Jonathan Frantini at length

At the end of the parade, all the guests, including singer Jorja Smith, model Tina Kunakey and her actor husband Vincent Cassel and designer Victoria Beckham admired the setting sun in the middle of this science fiction setting, before the after party.

The English designer has long congratulated the French designer.

“I have admired Simon for years.

The show was magnificent, the girls splendid.

But even more it is the clothes that impress me because they are pieces cut to be worn in life.

For me, Simon is the emblem of a certain idea of ​​cool, of youth, of France, he is an inspiring creator.

I have great respect for everything he built.

Its business and its strategy are inspiring.”

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2022-06-28

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