Special envoy to Baux-de-Provence
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A 3-star must comply with certain specifications to deserve its crown.
Among the imperatives: to offer, during the meal, at least one plate that you will not soon forget.
At Oustau de Baumanière, Glenn Viel, 42, lines up five, at the very least, in his large menu.
The Oustau is a unique institution.
An address created by the self-taught Raymond Thuillier, it quickly enjoyed post-war glory (36 years with three macarons between 1954 and 1989), then less flamboyant times without however declining.
The house is now fortunate to have two complementary brains at its head: that of Glenn Viel, perched at an altitude of 1.90 m, and that of the owner - who agrees to leave the star to his hyperactive younger brother -, Jean-André Charial, 77, grandson of Thuillier, himself a chef but initially trained at HEC, always present in the past.
There is often, with Glenn Viel, a search for trompe-l'oeil, a mischievous tenderness for the "I'm not the dish you think"
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