cut diamonds
cut diamonds
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow04 photos
See the slideshow04 photos
If the De Beers and Graff houses compete each year for extraordinary stones, the exercise takes on a surreal dimension this season on Place Vendôme.
Thus, Messika Paris displays as the center stone of its necklace with Egyptian charm a 33 carat from a rough of 110 carats, from the Lucara mine in Botswana.
But the masterful feat goes to Van Cleef & Arpels, which cut part of its collection from a 910-carat rough unearthed in Lesotho.
A treasure carefully kept secret for almost four years, having given rise to diamonds of up to 79 carats in oval cut for this necklace, hemmed with the signature cut of the house: the Serti Mystérieux.
precious light
precious light
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Still at the top of the poster, however, diamonds capture the light this season in a more singular way.
A style exercise perfectly mastered by Chanel Joaillerie, which marks the 90th anniversary of the “Diamond Jewels” collection by mixing the fetish stars of the Grande Mademoiselle: magnetic moon, comet or sun.
Rays of which Pomellato celebrates the graphic contrast by mixing here white and black diamonds on the same graphic jewel.
But it is Pierre Hardy who pushes experimentation to the limit of the elusive at Hermès by engraving the shadow cast on his high-flying adornments to broaden their scope.
Sewing chokers
Sewing chokers
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow04 photos
See the slideshow04 photos
A usual figure of style in any high jewelry exercise, the “
statement necklace
” here takes on the appearance of a couture adornment.
On the figurative level first at Dior with a crossover of precious ribbons, adorned with a floral print that was found on a Miss Dior dress from 1949. The background, but also the shape with at Louis Vuitton, for example, a graphic collar that required 2,000 hours of work to carve its structure and place a 65-carat tsavorite on it.
If Chopard chooses to stay on a dazzling white with more than 204 carats of diamond, Bulgari adorns its lace with a handful of emeralds from Colombia with hypnotic green lights.
Underwater treasures
Underwater treasures
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Known for his strikingly realistic bestiary, Boucheron surprises this season by drawing the outlines of other treasures of nature, between licked sea urchins, sculptural corals or precious cowries.
A dive twenty thousand leagues under the sea that also inspires Cartier, which dedicates a chapter of its “Beauties of the World” line to these fatally red reefs.
When Chaumet depicts all the facets of the marine world in its “Ondes & Merveilles” collection, from waves of diamonds to fantasized treasure hunts.
Tangy trimmings
Tangy trimmings
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow05 photos
See the slideshow05 photos
Tourmaline, sapphire, garnet… The center stones vibrate colorfully this season.
Luminous and joyful monochromes, like the incandescent crossover proposed by Harry Winston or Tiffany & Co. But also, to choose from, a gourmet pink like this sapphire adopted in pear shape by Piaget, which is however more and more rare on the market, or this tourmaline lined with pearls designed by Prabal Gurung at Tasaki.
As for the Taiwanese designer Anna Hu, it is the titanium frame that is hemmed in pink to better showcase the 55-carat heart-cut diamond.
Italian heritage
Italian heritage
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Between influences and ancestral traditions, Italian jewelery know-how also shines during this Parisian week.
With each time a bridge that is created between past and present.
If at Buccellati it is vintage treasures that are brought back to light, the Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci houses have chosen to include a fragment of history in their contemporary creations.
An ancient coin for one, mixed with kunzites, rubies, pearls and diamonds, while the second makes an ancient micromosaic the center of attention.
Enough to bring together the two passions of Alessandro Michele, its artistic director, for these precious representations and jewelry in one and the same piece.
