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Paris in summer without getting bored: Pontoise, history pegged to the ramparts

2022-07-07T05:12:31.929Z


WITHIN REACH OF THE RER (2/6) - Less than an hour from Paris, these unexpected cities are revealed to visitors who want to leave the beaten track for a day. Pontoise will appeal to religious heritage enthusiasts as well as hiking enthusiasts.


Spending the day in Pontoise?

This city retains traces of a Neolithic past (3000 BC), Gallo-Roman (Jules César road linking Lutèce to Rouen), medieval, renaissance, revolutionary, empire and impressionist.

It will please history and art enthusiasts as well as hikers, pedestrians or cyclists, who will stroll along banks adorned with centuries-old trees.

Families will appreciate the charm of the river escapades and the festive evenings of the guinguette.

To discover

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The city's coat of arms proudly and clearly displays its colors: golden fleur-de-lys, azure blue of a bridge with five silver arches.

From the city ramparts, the panoramic view of the Oise and its bridge brings a breath of summer serenity.

Camille Pissarro has often immortalized this bridge.

A replica of a canvas now in Japan, at the Yamagata Museum, can be seen near the Tourist Office.

Read alsoParis in summer without getting bored: Poissy, the city that hides its assets

Majestic religious architecture

Saint-Maclou cathedral in Pontoise.

Adobe Stock / PackShot

The exit from the station is

at Place du Général de Gaulle

.

Two solutions: turn right on rue Séré-Depoin heading (400m) towards the tourist office located on the banks of the

Oise

to pick up maps and brochures.

The building is new, modern and the staff is particularly welcoming.

Another possibility is to go and admire the

Saint-Maclou cathedral

, clearly visible (400m) at the top of a fairly steep hill and a monumental staircase.

Built around 1145, it has been redesigned and mixes Romanesque and Gothic styles.

From there, go down the cobbled rue du Grand Godet towards

the Notre-Dame church

(1177).

It also revamped Renaissance.

Do not miss the statue (2m) of the miraculous Virgin nor the stained glass windows which date from the beginning of 1900. Outside, under the tall trees, the fountain of the Virgin once supplied the tanners.

Five hundred meters further, go see the

tower of the Fountain of Love

in the eponymous street.

A legend says that a young aristocrat met a squire there in secret.

An idyll broken by the father of the girl who killed the suitor.

Visits:

cathedral open from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., church from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Bucolic break at the Carmel Church

The pretty paved courtyard of the Carmel church in Pontoise.

Martine Carret / Le Figaro

Our favourite, for sure.

A heavy oak door marks the entrance to a small paved courtyard.

The

Carmel Church

there was consecrated on April 12, 1610 and can be visited.

It is a Carmelite at the reception who provides the keys to the church.

Inside, several paintings dating from the 17th century, and the more recent one (18th century) of

The Transverberation of Saint Teresa of Avila

.

High up, on the side aisle, are displayed in a transparent urn the relics of Marie de l'Incarnation, the first officially recognized French stigmatized.

Twelve Carmelites still live here, garden and cloister remain private.

The vegetable garden and orchard, including hundred-year-old trees, provided the nuns with enough to live on.

At 91, Sister Marie-Jeanne de Jésus prepares apple jam with orange, blackcurrant jelly, lemon marmalade, rhubarb jam with vanilla.

The pots are on sale (€5) at reception, as well as infusions of verbena harvested in the orchard.

Visits:

entrance at 55, rue Pierre Butin.

Morning service (8 a.m. Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. Sunday) by prior registration (tel: 01 30 32 35 21).

Doors open after mass and until 4:45 p.m.

carmelpontoise.fr

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Limestone quarries

The Cave des Moineaux and its ribbed vaults, in Pontoise.

City of Pontoise / Press photo

A real Swiss cheese, the historic heart of the old town is dotted with underground passages.

The cellars of the dwellings are vaulted and particularly beautiful.

While some can only be visited during European Heritage Days, there is on the other hand a network of underground passages accessible all year round, in particular the famous

Cave des Moineaux

and its ribbed vaults.

This old network of quarries dug between the 12th and 15th centuries is truly spectacular.

The guided tour (2 hours) organized by the tourist office also leads to the casemates and firing points of the old castle.

Visits:

during the summer, Sunday and Wednesday, 2.30 p.m.

Sessions on July 14 and August 15.

€7 (adult), €5 (7-12 years old on presentation of proof or student with Pass Campus).

Guided tours by reservation here. 

Our advice:

bring good shoes and a sweater (12°C).

To finish: impressionist walk or cruise

Pontoise bridge

, painted by Camille Pissarro.

Martine Carret / Le Figaro

For cyclists, hikers or simply strollers, the banks of the Oise towards Auvers (6km) smell like holidays.

Head, leaving the Oise on your right hand, towards

the Hermitage district

and its intricate streets celebrated by Pissarro who lived at 26 and 38 rue de l'Hermitage and 21, quai Eugène Turpin.

Go up rue Jean-Paul Soutumier towards the

Camille-Pissarro Museum

, which houses two of his paintings:

Wheelbarrow in an orchard

(deposit of the Musée d'Orsay),

Barge on the Seine

and several drawings and engravings by this painter but also by his contemporaries.

Visits:

Wednesday to Sunday except public holidays, 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 1:30 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Temporary collection until August 21: Jean-François Auburtin.

Full price: €5, reduced price, €4, free < 12 years old.

All summer long, every day (except Mondays), various themed or unguided cruises, guided or not, some lively and festive ones are organized according to a specific schedule.

Direction Auvers or Éragny.

Adult prices vary: €25 (2h, theme), €9 (without commentary), family (2 adults, 2 children) from €24 to €62.

Find out more:

from the Intermunicipal Tourist Office,

And also:

for children, an educational farm has been set up at the Château de Marcouville, 2, rue des Pâtis.

Saturday and Sunday, 2-6 p.m.

Practical notebook

WHERE ARE WE GOING TO TAKE LUNCH ?

The Shard of the Rock

In the extension of the ramparts, terrace or room with exposed stones.

Fresh seasonal produce, cuisine by Mélanie and Alexandre, seats 44, reservation strongly recommended on 01 34 43 14 05. Closed: Tuesday, Wednesday.

30, rue de la Roche.

AND FOR DINNER?

Evenings at the Guinguette, located opposite the Tourist Office.

Thursday and Friday, 6 p.m.-10.30 p.m., Saturday 2 p.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 2 p.m.-7 p.m.

Menus concocted with products from Vexin producers.

ASK ABOUT

Intercommunal tourist office, Place de la Piscine.

Such.

: 01 34 41 70 60. Registration for guided tours and cruises.

Audioguide on loan (6€), or for download.

GO

From Saint-Lazare station, Line J, 40 minutes.

From Gare du Nord: line H, 59 minutes.

From Porte Maillot, RER C, 1H10.

From La Défense, RER A, direction Cergy.

Cergy Préfecture stop (27 minutes).

Take bus no. 45 (5 minutes), Pontoise Gare stop.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2022-07-07

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