We thought the Vetements brand disappeared with the parade organized last March under the new name of VTMNTS.
But Guram Gvasalia, its co-founder (with his brother Demna, artistic director of Balenciaga) is full of surprises... And now the brand is taking back its original name for a show, held during Couture week but not part of the official calendar.
Read alsoDemna: “At Balenciaga, I see myself as a fashion osteopath who presses where it is blocked”
“
It's my real first collection
, explains Gvasalia.
In December, when all the models were masked, and last March, it was only an introduction to my universe.
I was keen to show during this week dedicated to couture because I have the impression that it is losing its luster at the moment.
This new stage in the brand's "reboot" is very autobiographical: Gvasalia multiplies the references to his childhood as a refugee (like this shearling coat evoking his childhood teddy bear, or these large checked ponchos, references to “
Blankets given to us by the Red Cross, the only coat we could then wear
), to his punk youth in Germany (ripped jeans, ultra-loose T-shirts and hoodies, gigantic boots) or even to his fight, when he was younger, against depression (an "
I'm not doing sh*t today
", or "
I'm not doing anything at all today
", in VF, representing "
(his)
state of mind at certain times of his youth
"), tributes to his grandmother's outfits ... The emblematic checked prints of the Tati bags (the show took place in the brand's former store in Barbès, which is currently being renovated) are available in belted coats and trousers.
"
When I started designing my own clothes during the war in Georgia, I couldn't afford raw materials.
I cut out these bags, assembled them... I wanted to create the most luxurious version possible.
“He is not the first (Phoebe Philo and Azzeddine Alaïa have rubbed shoulders with it in the past) to revisit this famous motif.
But there is a particular and very strong symbolism in seeing these tiles elevated to the rank of supreme luxury, between the dilapidated walls of this former Parisian institution that has now disappeared.
Clothing Clothing
Continuing what he started with his first show, the designer cuts impeccable suit jackets with square shoulders and a nipped-in waist, in banker-striped suit woollens or sweatshirt fleece, washing them out as if they had been bleached - an idea that apparently came from a laundry accident Gvasalia had when he was a student.
Other jackets are worn inside out, or slipped under a huge white T-shirt (it's a safe bet that we'll soon see young people imitating this association).
On the faces of this cast of all ages with their hair often combed in the air (kilos of hairspray must have been necessary), paintball masks and Oakley sports glasses.
Clothing Clothing
The latest looks are eyeing the couture side: a spectacular sheath dress with a bare back (and matching stole) is covered in sequins, another gala dress is covered in a long candy pink veil, a cotton candy organza bathrobe is spent on a “Stop Being Rich” t-shirt.
"
This T-shirt carries a message: I think the world has become far too rich
," smiles the designer.
Today, everything costs a fortune, to the point where the clothes and the organization of a parade become unaffordable.
The whole industry is going crazy.
“When you have made your success on logo t-shirts sold for several hundred euros, this kind of postulate can make you smile.
But Vetements can always be counted on to cast a tad mocking look at the industry — and itself.