Mont Blanc is suffocating.
Due to repeated episodes of strong heat, crevasses and landslides disrupt the way to the highest peak in Europe.
Officially, access to the mythical summit is not closed, but the guides who accompany thousands of enthusiasts each year have decided to no longer take certain routes.
Olivier Greber, the president of the Compagnie des guides de Chamonix, explains the options for those who would like to embark on a climb this summer.
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LE FIGARO. - Has access to Mont Blanc become impossible?
Olivier Greber. -
No, but the passage by the normal route known as the Goûter has become too dangerous, especially since the clientele on this climb is sometimes inexperienced.
The Goûter corridor is exposed to rockfalls and the frequency of these is increased due to the drought, which is usually experienced at such a level a month later.
There are other accesses to the summit of Mont Blanc such as the Cosmiques refuge or the Italian routes, but these routes are more difficult.
We are attached to freedom of access to the mountains: it is up to everyone to estimate their technical abilities.
But you should know that contrary to what we sometimes hear, Mont Blanc is not an easy climb.
Olivier Greber, the president of the Compagnie des guides de Chamonix Compagnie des guides de Chamonix / Press photo
Does this mean that the normal route will be inaccessible for the rest of the season?
We cannot make any predictions, our profession requiring daily adaptation.
We are in constant contact with scientists and the High Mountain Gendarmerie Platoon to follow the evolution of conditions.
Are we going to have a cooling in the next few weeks?
Impossible to say.
It has snowed a little bit at high altitude lately.
Surely not enough.
Such conditions so early in the year are unheard of.
It will take a little more than a few days of cooling.
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Are there other possible ascents?
Sure.
It will be more rock races, not snow, which does not mean that we cannot have fun.
In the Mont Blanc massif, which is not limited to the ascent of the summit of the same name, or in that of the Aiguilles Rouges for example.
We will avoid mentioning a particular climb, so as not to create traffic jams on a single summit, but the guides are there to make individual recommendations according to the level of each one and the conditions on the day.
This is also the time or never to perfect your technical qualities in order to be ready when the conditions will change: rock schools, ice school, canyon.
It's always useful, a bit like doing your scales in music.
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