Haloed by its royal past, the city which saw the birth of Louis XIV is nestled in a loop of the Seine and one understands when arriving through this beautiful forest of 3500 hectares that the kings of France succumbed to the charm of Saint-Germain-en-Laye .
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Imagine the Château-Neuf
Understanding the city and its location involves getting off the RER at Le Vésinet-Le Pecq station (exit 2 Georges Bizet).
A short walk towards the Seine and its bridge leads you to a hillside.
It was there, at the very top, that Henry IV had modeled in 1606 a single-storey castle in the Italian style with terraces and stepped gardens that descended to the river and sumptuous caves where subtle Florentine artists had installed hydraulic automatons.
Of this castle where Louis XIV was born (1638), only two recognizable pavilions remain with their ocher facades, the superb Wall of the Lions, decorated with glazed bricks, the access ramps and the Sully Pavilion (4 avenue du Pavillon, Le Pecq), today remains private.
Take the steps, and watch the sheep from
Ouessant graze the grassy embankment under the cave ramp.
Close your eyes and imagine Henri IV returning from Paris or from his “bathing room” in the Seine, trotting on horseback on this ramp where you walk quietly… A little effort, a few steps.
Turn around and enjoy the panoramic view of the Seine and the Eiffel Tower.
You only have 350 meters to go to arrive via the Grille du Boulingrin in the gardens of the castle of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, also called "Château-Vieux" and have access to the national forest.
Alternative:
the RER terminus leads to the esplanade opposite the Château-Vieux.
Terrace Ours
La Grande Terrasse, the work of André Le Nôtre and a vast 30-metre-wide path lined with lime trees on the forest side.
OTI SGBS
From the Boulingrin lawn, two possibilities:
Head (left) towards Château-Vieux
(built in 1101, improved by François 1er, Henri IV, Louis XIV), with its flowerbeds, shady lawns and children's play area.
Within its walls, the National Archaeological Museum (10 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Tuesdays) houses the
Lady of Brassempouy
, a famous mammoth ivory figurine.
The historic city center, cafes, ice cream parlors and restaurants adjoin the gardens.
Head towards (right) the Grande Terrasse
, the work of André Le Nôtre (1669-1674), a vast alley 30 meters wide lined with lime trees on the forest side.
Imaginative, to avoid tiring Louis XIV and his Court on a walk, the landscaper had "broken" the 1945 meters of the Grande Terrasse by an anamorphosis.
By a game of perspectives, it seems shorter than it actually is.
This still allows visitors to walk without realizing how far they still have to go.
The retaining wall of the Terrace is made of limestone.
To prevent rainwater from collapsing, Le Nôtre had the intelligence to draw the path downhill and for 350 years, the water has always flowed on the forest side.
Look carefully, you will see the difference (30 cm).
The promenade overlooks the Seine, like an open-air balcony.
In the distance,
the towers of La Défense, the Sacré-Coeur, the Eiffel Tower.
Next door, market gardens near the river, small vineyard, acacias, horses playing in the flowery and wooded meadows.
Be aware that the wrought iron railing does not date from the Sun King, but from Napoleon III (1857).
His imperial crown is visible at the beginning of the perspective (Pavillon Henri IV).
Horse riding
The Forest House of the Royal Grille which hosts within its walls Epona Club, equestrian center offers pony rides or rides with Icelandic horses.
Martine Carret / Le Figaro
At the end of the Terrace, a superb circle formed by 59 huge lime trees where gi-gong enthusiasts sometimes meet.
Next door, the Grille Royale Forestry House, which hosts Epona Club within its walls.
This equestrian center offers pony rides or rides with Icelandic horses.
Children will fall for the adorable little Loulou, Milka, Grelot and all the others.
From €38, independently.
Possibility of privatizing a horse-drawn carriage for 6 people (290 €, 1h15).
Reservations with Agnès on 07 69 00 20 75.
A green lung of bicentenary trees
Intended for the passage of hunting teams, the paths traced in the 350 ha of forest date from François 1er.
Martine Carret / Le Figaro
Intended for the passage of hunting teams, the paths traced in the 350 ha of forest date from François 1er.
Wide, they are cut into stars and all have names.
No risk of getting lost, but buying a map (€2) at the Tourist Office is worthwhile as it includes many explanations of the fauna, flora and history.
“
The forest is made up of 45% sessile and pedunculate oaks, 17% hornbeam and 12% beech
,” explains Alain Gauthier, administrator of the Association des Amis de la forêt Saint-Germain-Marly.
200 trees are over 200 years old
”.
Outings to discover remarkable species and trees are regularly organized by the association and can be booked at the Tourist Office.
Sports hike:
chemin des Oratoires (18 km or 13).
Marked with blue crosses, look on the top of the trees for 7 oratories and 4 crosses like the stone one dedicated to Joan of Arc and dated 1456.
Family hike:
from the Château du Val, follow the posts with a blue salamander.
This is a 2.5 km botanical trail with 10 explanatory panels of the forest environment.
Children love it, especially the Mare aux Canes.
Good to know:
Bicycles are not allowed to venture on the often sandy paths marked with a horseshoe which are reserved for riders.
Several circuits are marked for cyclists: maps here.
Timeless Feast of the lodges
The Fête des Loges is one of the oldest fairgrounds in France, held almost every summer since 1655. OTI SGBS
Where does this tradition come from?
In 1655, a procession left the village of Saint-Germain to a chapel dedicated to Saint Fiacre, patron saint of gardeners.
The festivities attract the presence of fairground people.
If the chapel no longer exists, there are sumptuous buildings that house the Maison d'éducation de la Légion d'honneur and an oratory dedicated to Saint-Fiacre.
On July 28, attractions and paths will be flowered in his honor.
Until August 15 inclusive, many spectacular attractions await all those who love exceptional rides, those where you have your head upside down most of the time.
Many themed restaurants as well.
Opening hours:
Monday to Thursday from 3 p.m. to 1:30 a.m., Friday and eve of public holidays, 3 p.m. to 2 a.m., Saturday 2 p.m. to 2 a.m., Sunday and public holidays, 2 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.
Practical:
from the RER, a small train (€2.50/person/journey) drops you off (3km) from 1 p.m. to 11:45 p.m. at the entrance to the Festival.
Or Tram 13 to Camp des Loges (PSG), then walk 1.5 km.
Tip:
for those who follow the path of the Oratories, to the right of the entrance to the Festival, a small path leads to the oratory of the Virgin of the Poles, a touching statuette with its garden and its rosebushes planted under the oak.
For children:
and adults… Tree climbing camp, Parc de la Charmeraie, 2 km on foot from the RER.
Monkey bridge, Tarzan liana, jumps.
Until August 31, every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (last departure, 5.30 p.m.).
From September 1 to November 30, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., closed Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.
Practical notebook
WHERE ARE WE GOING TO TAKE LUNCH ?
Pavilion Henry IV
The panoramic terrace of the Pavillon Henri IV overlooks the Seine.
Press picture
Gourmet restaurant whose panoramic terrace overlooks the Seine.
It was here that on August 24, 1837, the cook Collinet invented the recipe for souffléed potatoes, then Béarnaise sauce.
The menu is resolutely locavore, the vegetables come from the surrounding area.
3-course menu €65.
Access by the park of the castle.
Thursday to Sunday for lunch and Thursday to Saturday for dinner.
Please note that the hotel is closed until Wednesday August 24, 2022.
Pavillon Henri IV, 19-21 Rue Thiers, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
Such.
: 01 39 10 15 15.
Theater Brewery
Its seafood platters are simply divine.
This brasserie is a one-minute walk from the RER, near the theatre, in front of the castle.
Reservation recommended on 01 30 61 28 00 or by email reservation-brasserie78@orange.fr.
Open every day from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Lunchtime menu formula from Monday to Friday, excluding public holidays only: Starter + main course or main course + dessert €23.50.
Brasserie du Théâtre, 19 rue de la Salle, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
Such.
: 01 30 61 28 00.
House of the Valley
An address that has to be earned, in the heart of the forest.
From the RER terminus, enter the castle park and walk up the Grande Terrasse Le Nôtre (25 minutes).
At the very end on the left, exit through the Grille Royale.
Go down the small marked path which leads in 5 minutes to the Château du Val and its park.
All you have to do is put your feet under the table in this royal setting, thinking of Louis XIV who regularly met the Duchess of La Vallière there at the end of the afternoon.
From Tuesday noon to Sunday noon, all-you-can-eat buffet €50.
Dinner: daily plated menu from Monday to Thursday, all-you-can-eat buffet Friday and Saturday, €65.
Sunday, all-you-can-eat brunch-buffet €65.
By reservation and prepayment only.
Maison du Val - The Country Houses, rte Forestière des Brancas, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
Such.
: 01 30 86 25 00.
Read alsoThe getaway of the week: an unexpected country house
ASK ABOUT
350m from the RER, the refined pavilion of the Jardin des Arts (3, rue Henri IV) is the headquarters of the Saint Germain Boucles de Seine Tourist Office.
Lots of documentation and maps available.
Such.
: 01 30 87 20 63, reservations for guided tours.
GO
From La Défense-Grande Arche, RER A, 19 minutes to the terminus, Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
IN THE SAME SERIES
Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, where the Oise joins the Seine
Le Vésinet, a town in the middle of a park
Pontoise, history pegged to the ramparts
Poissy, the city that hides its assets
