The anecdote has reached us until today thanks to the notes of Jacques de Cahaignes, a gentleman established near Valognes during the Renaissance: "
The great King François I passing by there, in the year one thousand five hundred and thirty-two , had bars carried
(barrels of cider)
in his wake, which he used as long as he could last…
” This almost Rabelaisian scene, where the shadow of a Gargantua hovers drinking from a barrel under a sunny orchard, says it all. on the distant origins of this funny drink made from fermented apples in Manchoise.
The first cider presses even date back to the Middle Ages, say local historians who place the arrival, from northern Spain, of the first apple trees in Normandy around the 10th century.
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The little story still goes that on returning from his trip to Coténtin, François I would have said: “
I have never seen such ugly apple trees give such good cider!
The legend of good cider from La Manche was born, but not yet its commercial route.
At least until Paris.
It was not until 2017 that Cotentin cider (finally) received an AOC label.
Decades after those attributed, from 1996, to ciders from the Pays d'Auge, in Calvados, or even those from Cornouaille, in southern Finistère in Brittany.
One reason for this: until the early 2000s, cider production in the Manche, essentially confined to small family farms, was often content with the local market.
Above all, in the first years of the CAP, farmers were invited to uproot their orchards in order to return the land to other crops!
But it was before this awareness of a handful of operators who are relaunching this sector, which is just waiting to overcome the prejudices about this drink that the former farm laborers drank up to more than 10 liters a day.
Le Figaro
has therefore explored the Manchois bocage in search of good addresses for this "
golden blond of the Normans
".
Read alsoHolidays in La Manche, why you have to (re)discover this corner of Normandy
Valognes Regional Cider Museum
The museum has the richest French collection devoted to "the blond gold of the Normans", spread over twelve rooms, all in a remarkable example of medieval architecture.
Regional Cider Museum / Photo o press
Located opposite the magnificent Hôtel de Beaumont in the oldest house (1530) of the "Petit Versailles Normand", which, for the record, housed a bonesetter until it was transformed into a museum in 1972, the Regional Cider Museum of Valognes surprises first by its size: a dozen pieces in their own juice (what century are we in when entering?).
And then for the diversity of its collection: cider presses, pottery, stills and other old costumes, or even sound animations to better understand the history of cider.
We get caught up in the game, especially since a small free tasting (cider or apple juice) is offered to visitors at the exit.
Regional cider museum, rue du Petit Versailles, 50700 Valognes.
Such.
: 06 75 89 89 52. Price: €4.5, free for children under 18.
A game booklet for children aged 6 to 12 is available free of charge at the museum reception.
Open every day in July-August from 11 a.m. to 6.15 p.m. (Sunday from 2 p.m.).
Grosville Commandery Farm
Our favorite for its authenticity.
A single sign indicates the entrance to the farm where the visitor parks easily in the courtyard.
Greeted, to the sound of gravel under the tires, by Jean-François Vaultier, who will soon hand over to his son-in-law Benjamin Lepelley the farm created by his grandfather, we immediately feel at ease.
“
Is it for a visit or a tasting?
asks our cider maker without fuss, followed by a young puppy.
No doubt, we are in the countryside.
The smell of apples and old farm machinery hangs in the air.
Here, one-hour tours are free.
Benjamin is there to explain his art.
Tastings are free.
And a shop, located in the farmhouse where you can guess the ancestors seated in front of the old fireplace, offers for direct sale the whole range of what you can hope to find from apples: pommeau, calva, juice of fruit, raw, extra-raw or dry cider.
Farm of La commanderie, place called La commanderie, 50340 Grosville.
Such.
: 02 33 04 32 30. Visits and tasting of La Cidrerie every day from April to September at 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. - 5 p.m. (duration approximately 1 hour).
The shop is open Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. (April to September).
Father Mahieu cider house in Bricquebosq
Created in 1920, the Père Mahieu cider house was taken over by Alain Pismont.
Father Mahieu / Photo press
Created in 1920 on the road linking Barneville-Carteret to Cherbourg, the Père Mahieu cider house was taken over by Alain Pismont in 2006, who made it a brand that has become essential for amateurs.
Now everything is organic.
Here, the visitor enters the heart of a 16th century hamlet made entirely of local stone, where people work as a family of five.
Aurore, the daughter, and Laurent, the son-in-law, will soon take over.
Alain Pismont sees this as proof that the sector is rejuvenating at the same time as it is becoming more professional.
At the cider house, tours, lasting 45 minutes or more, take place all year round and are also in German or English.
During the tasting (free) at the shop, the operator shares his passion for cider from the region.
"
In general, people
exclaims Alain Pismont.
Unlike Pays d'Auge cider which is rounder and sweeter, so perfect for desserts, Cotentin cider is a little more bitter and goes superbly with full meals, such as a leg of lamb from Mont Saint -Michel or a seafood platter
.
Cidrerie Le Père Mahieu, Hameau Les Mesles, 50340 Briqueboscq.
Such.
: 02 33 93 03 79. Visits all year round.
BUT ALSO…
Cotentin ciders benefit from the Protected Designation of Origin Cidre Cotentin and can be found on good tables as well as in delicatessens or sold directly from the producer.
OT Cotentin
Cidrerie Théo Capelle, 50340 Sotteville.
Such.
: 02 33 04 41 17. Shop with many regional products.
Paid visit (2.5 €).
Cidrerie Les Vergers de la passion, 50260 Rauville-la-Bigot.
Such.
: 06 13 53 44 90. Guided tour with tasting.
Domaine de Rugueville, 50580 Portbail.
Such.
: 06 61 40 04 22. Sale at the estate of products (partly organic) made from apples, cider, calvados and cider eau-de-vie.
Maison Hérout cider house, 50500 Auvers.
Such.
: 02 33 71 07 89. Founded in 1946 in Auvers, Maison Hérout has had a 100% organic orchard since the 1970s.
Cidrerie Claids, 50190 Saint-Patrice-de-Claids.
Such.
: 06 30 04 42 25. Delicious apple recipes: cider, Pommeau, apple juice, Calvados... But also homemade creations such as Apéro'Claids or Key's Claids.
Cider Lemasson, 50570 Cametours.
Such.
: 02 33 45 80 73.
Haupais cider house, 50000 Le Mesnil-Rouxelin.
Such.
: 06 70 38 06 62.
Practice
ASK ABOUT
Valognes Tourist Office: encotentin.fr/valognes
Cotentin Tourist Office: encotentin.fr
GO
By car :
The RN13 (2x 2 lanes) from Paris – Caen is free, it joins the RN176 for Saint-Lô and the A84.
The tourist route (D650) offers unique landscapes that cross the Manche department from Avranches to Cherbourg.
By bus :
The Nomad lines serve the whole of the Manche Department and the Normandy Region.
By train :
The Paris-Cherbourg line (departing from Saint-Lazare station) serves the towns of Carentan, Valognes and Cherbourg-en-Cotentin (OUI.sncf and commentjyvais.fr).
OR SLEEP
Gobelins Inn
Seven comfortable rooms overlook the countryside or the garden, evoking the legends of La Hague and the exotic garden that surrounds the terraces.
At the table, the slate has some lovely surprises in store, depending on the chef's inspiration.
From €108 per night in a double room.
Auberge des Goubelins, At the Manoir du Tourp Omonville-la-Rogue D45, 50440 La Hague.
Such.
02 33 01 02 20.
Read alsoOur most beautiful guest rooms 2022 in Normandy, Brittany and Center
