Weekend in Cannes: behind the glitter, the soul of Provence

It was a Scotsman who sealed the starry destiny of Cannes.

On his way to the County of Nice, one winter day in 1834, Lord Henry Peter Brougham was forced to stop in Cannes when a cholera epidemic ravaged Nice and its surroundings.

Fallen under the charm of the place, he built a Palladian-inspired residence and brought in his wake a European aristocracy that established the city as a winter vacation destination.

Eight centuries earlier, the monks of the Abbey of Lérins had founded Cannes by erecting a watchtower on a hill and then a castle to protect their strong monastery located on the island of Saint-Honorat, offshore.

To discover

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Known worldwide for its international film festival, city of congresses and now a summer resort, Cannes has retained a Provençal soul that can be heard beating in the market or in the alleys of Le Suquet, on the hill chosen by the monks.

Read alsoThe Lérins Islands, the other paradisiacal face of Cannes

The arrival

From Nice airport, Cannes is accessible in less than 30 minutes by car and in 45 minutes by a shuttle service operating from 8 am to 8 pm (9.55 pm in summer) with a departure every 30 minutes from 9 am to 7 pm.

Price: €33 round trip.

The station is located in the city center.

For train journeys, count 5h15 from Paris, 4h from Lyon or 2h from Marseille.

The city center can easily be explored on foot.

What to do right now in Cannes

THE EXPO NOT TO BE MISSED

The underwater ecomuseum in the Lérins Islands

The works of the English sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor submerged a few meters deep between the Lérins Islands.

Maxime Tancons

Equipped with a mask and a snorkel, you have to take a deep breath to dive towards the monumental works of the English sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor submerged a few meters deep between the Lérins islands.

A few months after their installation, the algae began to blur the contours of the faces inspired by the inhabitants of Cannes.

It is the objective.

Made of an ecological material with a neutral PH, the sculptures are intended to become artificial reefs.

Remains the poetry of an underwater encounter.

Free access from the shore of Île Sainte-Marguerite, directly above the forest house, in an area prohibited from anchoring.

A hundred meters offshore.

Read alsoFrom Marseille to Mexico, the five most spectacular underwater museums in the world

THE TABLE TO RESERVE: SALAMA

Salama serves fine Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine.

Salama / Photo press

The hype restaurant in Saint-Tropez has chosen Cannes to open a more urban address.

We find there a refined Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine, perfectly executed, such as this tajine of lamb, prunes and almonds, cooked at low temperature or the sea bream ceviche with fresh coriander, oil infused with mint and lemon juice, tasted during of our passage.

The contemporary décor, terracotta colour, sculpted with arches and niches, is an invitation to travel.

For a festive atmosphere, we will choose the 2nd service at 10:30 p.m.

Large outdoor terrace on the street side.

À la carte: starters around €15, couscous and tajines around €33.

Salama, 10 rue Florian, 06400 Cannes.

Such.

: 04 93 68 51 69.

Read alsoCannes: our ten restaurants with terraces

THE HOTEL IN VIEW: LE SUQUET

The Le Suquet hotel, at the foot of the eponymous hill.

Le Suquet / Photo press

At the foot of the hill of the same name, this charming 3-star address offers 22 comfortable rooms, soberly decorated in a Mediterranean spirit.

Opened in the spring of 2022 by a luxury hotel professional from Cannes, the address focuses on quality of service.

It has a small swimming pool, very pleasant in the city center and a patio for having breakfast.

Ideal for discovering the authentic face of the city, from Le Suquet to the nearby Forville market, with the advice of its owner.

Le Suquet, 5 rue des Tambourinaires.

Such.

: 04 93 39 53 28.

From €100 per double room.

Continental breakfast: €19.

Day 1: Le Suquet, the villas of the hills, the Croisette

Le Suquet.

herve fabre

MORNING

Start your visit with the

, at the foot of the Suquet hill, to get drunk on the scents and flavors among the colorful stalls of flowers, fish, fruit and vegetables.

This is an opportunity to taste some local culinary specialties such as zucchini flower fritters or socca, chickpea flour pancakes.

A few cafes line the large coral-colored hall.

Among them, the small

, with its retro decor and terrace, offers a good vantage point from which to observe local life.

Continue your stroll by climbing the narrow streets of the Suquet hill, among the narrow houses and the braided walls of bougainvillea.

At the top, under the tall pines, the name of Cannes is displayed in giant letters.

There, take the time to admire the view of the city, the port and the harbor before pushing open the door of the

.

Its bell tower has become the icon of the district.

The adjoining castle, remarkable with its square tower, stands on the remains of the medieval fortress of the monks of Lérins.

It now houses the (small)

.

LUNCH BREAK

On the western slope of the hill of Le Suquet, in quiet streets, stop for lunch in one of the popular restaurants of Cannes such as

rue Perrissol, our favorite for its Italian cuisine and its cheerful eclectic decor.

Not far away,

serves traditional cuisine in an unfussy setting.

Closer to the Forville market,

has long played the Provençal bistro card in a contemporary setting.

A safe bet.

AFTERNOON

The Suquet of artists.

Cannes City Hall / Press Photo

Le Suquet has one last surprise in store: a contemporary art exhibition space housed in the former morgue of the Cannes hospital, which has been moved for a long time.

Content of the works or style of hanging,

inspires creators with its labyrinthine topography.

Until December 11, 2022, it is the visual artist Orsten Groom (represented in Paris by the Daniel Templon gallery) who presents with

, pictorial works influenced by parietal and parental art.

In 2024, nearby, the former Saint Roch chapel will house a museum dedicated to Jean Pigozzi's prestigious collection of contemporary African art.

For architecture enthusiasts, continue your visit to Cannes on another hill in the city,

where the 19th and 20th centuries saw the flowering of the beautiful villas of aristocrats and wealthy vacationers.

Admire the architecture of the Noailles media library housed in the former Italian Renaissance-style Rothschild villa.

Inside, a winter garden and lounge with old wood paneling accommodate reading rooms.

Opposite,

, converted into a condominium, stands out in the landscape with its neo-Gothic style towers.

East of the city, on the California hill, visit the

, open in summer for art exhibitions.

Built in 1934 for the director of the museum André Jacquemart, it displays gardens and elegant volumes, influenced by the Italian style.

Finish your walk on the unmissable

to contemplate by the sea, behind the palm trees and the umbrella pines, the white and grandiose architecture of the palaces of Cannes.

Belle Époque at the Carlton, Art Deco at the Martinez… Push open the door of

, the pavilion of the former Grand Hotel, which each year hosts three major monographic exhibitions by artists of the 20th and 21st centuries (Agnès Varda, until the 20 November 2022).

The luxury boutiques follow one another on the prestigious artery, leaving the rue d'Antibes, further back, to the brands that can be found in all the big cities.

Below the Croisette, the beaches have been widened in recent years and the cerulean blue of the sea still flatters the eye.

APERITIF AND DINNER

At the bar of the Majestic.

Jean-Michel Sordello

Start (or end) the evening with a cocktail at the

.

Mixologist with growing notoriety, Emanuele Balestra has made a name for himself with his edible perfumes sprayed on the wrist at the time of service.

An unforgettable experience.

For dinner in chic and glamorous addresses, join the "golden square" around

, a dead end where the most prominent and quality restaurants have taken up residence:

,

(from the La Môme group) ,

…

In the same spirit but with your feet in the sand, from the end of April to mid-October, go to

, the beach at the Hôtel Barrière Le Gray d'Albion or La Môme Plage.

For a more relaxed atmosphere, bet on

, with its Californian flair, near the Palais des Festivals or on the wine bar-restaurant

.

EVENING

The previously mentioned private beaches invite DJs for the end of festive evenings which end around 1am.

Day 2: escape to the islands

Sainte-Marguerite Island.

Cannes City Hall / Jérôme Kelagopian

MORNING

Start with breakfast at

's, in an attractive decor of wallpaper, old-fashioned wooden shelves, parquet and cement tiles.

The welcome is adorable and the cookies divine.

Then embark for the

, off Cannes.

The two land confetti not being served by the same maritime shuttle, it is necessary to choose.

Opt for

if you want to visit

(designed by Vauban), famous for having housed the cell of the man in the iron mask.

It is the largest island, ideal for walking in the shade of umbrella pines and swimming.

We love its elongated rocks and its small coves of pebbles.

On its southern shore is the starting point for the underwater eco-museum.

Choose the

, which is smaller and quieter, to discover the sanctuary of the monks of Lérins.

We go there to contemplate the tower-monastery at the edge of the water (under construction until 2023), the abbey church and the vineyard.

Take the path that circles the island in an hour to admire seven chapels and Napoleonic cannonball ovens.

For a more unusual and sporty approach, between May and October, embark for the day on a canoe-kayak to discover the islands from the Pointe Croisette (where the legendary Palm Beach with its Hispano-Moorish architecture will be reborn in 2023).

Twenty minutes are enough to reach Sainte-Marguerite.

You will be able to coast freely along the rocks, disembark on isolated shores, contemplate the seabed tagged with Posidonia and above all discover the two islands.

Count about twenty kilometers round trip for their complete tour from the Pointe Croisette.

LUNCH BREAK

Tables with a view.

The Arbor / Photo press

On Saint-Honorat, the restaurant

opens onto the turquoise waters speckled with boats that separate the two islands.

A quality table where you can taste the wine of the monks of Lérins.

On Sainte-Marguerite, if you like private beaches with festive atmospheres, mingle with the happy few who dance and have a Mediterranean lunch facing the sea, at

, at the foot of Fort Royal.

AFTERNOON

Back from the islands, if you have time left, make a detour to

a few kilometers west of Cannes.

Its extravagant castle by the water is the result of a restoration undertaken in the Roaring Twenties by the Clews, a couple of American artists.

You will discover pleasant gardens, works by Henry Clew and artists in residence as well as curiosities revealed during guided tours between April and mid-September.

END OF THE DAY

Conclude your day on one of the rooftops of Cannes.

The latest addition is that of

, at the foot of Le Suquet.

It's our favorite for having a drink with the feeling of floating between the tiled roofs of the old town and the maritime horizon.

The ideal place to admire the sun setting behind the disheveled silhouette of the Estérel.

Our best addresses in Cannes

GOOD DINING

Tredici, 13 rue Louis Perrissol.

Such.

: 06 52 54 64 63

At the Bons Enfants, 80 rue Meynadier.

Such.

: 06 18 81 37 47

La Sousta, 11 rue du Pré.

Such.

: 04 93 39 19 18

Rosana, 13 rue des Belges.

Such.

: 04 93 38 88 60

UVA, 13 boulevard de la Republique.

Tel: 04 93 68 57 01

La Môme, 6 rue Florian.

Such.

: 04 93 38 60 95

Charlotte Busset, 26 rue Hoche.

Such.

: 04 22 78 00 87

La Tonnelle, Saint-Honorat island.

Such.

: 04 92 99 54 08

La Guérite, Sainte-Marguerite Island.

Such.

: 04 93 43 49 30

HAVE A DRINK

Mademoiselle Gray beach.

Jean-Michel Sordello

The Café de l'Horloge, 7 rue du marché Forville.

Such.

: 06 60 80 28 98

Hotel Barrière Le Majestic, 10 Boulevard de la Croisette.

Such.

: 04 92 98 77 00

Hotel Belle Plage, 2 rue Brougham.

Such.

: 04 93 06 25 50

Mademoiselle Gray, Boulevard de la Croisette.

Such.

: 04 92 99 79 99

La Môme Plage, Boulevard de la Croisette.

Such.

:04 93 38 22 00

TO VISIT

Le Suquet des artistes, 7 rue Saint Dizier.

Tel: 04 97 06 44 90.

Villa Domergue (Agnès Varda exhibition until 09/18/22).

15 avenue Fiesole.

Such.

: 04 97 06 44 90.

La Malmaison (Agnès Varda exhibition until 11/20/22), 47 boulevard de la Croisette.

Such.

: 04 97 06 44 90.

SHOPPING

Forville market.

Every day except Monday, from 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Abbey of Saint-Honorat (wines, liqueurs, eau-de-vie…).

Saint-Honorat Island.

Such.

: 04 92 99 54 00.

GETAWAYS

Kayak Évasion (self-guided or accompanied excursions).

5 Franklin Roosevelt Square.

Such.

: 07 69 91 57 01. kayak-evasion.fr

Sea shuttles to the Lérins Islands, Quai Laubeuf (at the end of the Old Port)

Towards Saint Honorat: Planaria company.

Return fare: €15.

Such.

: 04 92 98 71 38. cannes-ilesdelerins.com

To Sainte-Marguerite Island: Trans Côte d'Azur company.

Return fare: €15.

Such.

: 04 92 98 71 30. trans-cote-azur.com

OR SLEEP ?

The Belle Plage hotel.

Christophe Coenon

At the foot of Le Suquet, facing the sea, we love the gentle curves of the Belle Plage, a new 50-room hotel far from the splendor of the Croisette.

The interior decoration gives pride of place to natural materials, rounded shapes and light colors to create a cozy and stylish cocoon.

The breathtaking view from the rooftop and the restaurant at the top deserve a stopover.

The largest spa in Cannes will open in September at Belle Plage, covering 800 m² with eight cabins.

From €270 per double room.

Hotel Belle Plage, 2 rue Brougham.

Such.

: 04 93 06 25 50. hotelbelleplage.fr

Read alsoWe pushed the doors of the Belle Plage hotel, an air of Miami facing the bay of Cannes