After the reign of "nude", makeup dares color for the start of the school year

Smoky ultraviolet at Saint Laurent, neon pink eyeliner at Valentino, bubble gum eyelids at Giorgio Armani and Moschino, electric blue lips at Gucci or blood orange at Vivienne Westwood… An explosion of color set the tone on the Fashion Week catwalks .

Backstage at the shows, professional makeup artists feel a need for renewal after two years of the pandemic.

“For the past few seasons, fashion has been in bright and fresh shades.

We dare to use color a lot more,” remarks make-up artist Yann Rebelo, Maybelline New York ambassador, who observes a much more present influence from the United States in France, “for a long time, there was this domination of the nude look in the Parisian, very natural, without matter, very sober… but I have the impression that we have overcome these prejudices.

Women want to have fun and shake up beauty standards.

Similarly, if we pay attention to the new products launched on the make-up market recently, we mostly see increasingly colorful palettes, pencils and shadows.”

According to the prodigies of the brushes, a wave of shades of turquoise blue, apple green, bright orange, fuchsia or vermilion should descend on the world of make-up.

"It would seem that we are moving away from the traditional color codes that came back every fall like black, shades of brown and beige", also remarks the make-up artist Joséphine Bouchereau, "little by little, we finally allow ourselves to wear more intense shades and bolder looks.

We are more relaxed, we are no longer satisfied with this simple beauty “to go to work” and we try to have fun with more fun shades.

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The main playground to exploit this season, according to the pros?

The lips, neglected because of the wearing of the compulsory mask in recent years, which are coming back in force on the front of the stage and more colorful than ever.

They share the limelight with the manicure, which "takes a big place in the look of women", according to Joséphine Bouchereau, who is delighted to see them "turn to more flashy and neon colors, play with nail art or combine their held on their nails for an evening or an event.”

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Know how to dose

There is no need to do tons to break the monotony.

A few subtle bursts of color here and there are enough to make their effect.

"That doesn't mean spending three hours putting on make-up in the morning, but getting off the beaten track, being more daring in the way you put on make-up, trying out new tones," continues Joséphine Bouchereau, who admits however that “in France, make-up remains softer and less pigmented than in the United States, United Kingdom or Japan, for example.

The color is applied in touches, always in the finesse and the minimalist, so that it remains chic and portable.

The right pro reflex?

"Choose a single area to color: the eyes, the mouth or the cheeks, if you want to keep a certain harmony", advises Charly Barbier, Global make-up Artist Nars.

We let it emerge furtively from the inner corner of the eye or the lashline, in liner or mascara, "and we associate it with" an impeccable and luminous complexion.

And contrary to popular belief, colorful make-up is not just reserved for Generation Z or the extravagances of influencers at the Coachella festival.

The proof, the new so-called "senior" beauty icons are also getting into it, and demonstrating that it can also be elegant, captivating and fun at the same time: Andie McDowell dares to wear a green pencil on the red carpet of the Festival de rods,

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There is a strong desire for color which is intergenerational, even if the most visible change is seen in the 20s and 30s because they are often the triggers of these movements.

Carole Colombani, make-up artist.

Caroline Ida Ours, the 60-year-old model shaking up the fashion world, inspired her followers by posting a selfie of her purple eyeliner on Instagram.

Just like Maye Musk who blew up the likes counters on the social network by pairing a rainbow of color on the eyes with a bright red lipstick.

“Today, the boundaries between generations are very porous when it comes to makeup.

Just because you've passed a certain age doesn't mean you can't try a new color anymore.

On the contrary, it's even interesting to go more towards the light", underlines the make-up artist Carole Colombani, "there is a strong desire for color which is intergenerational,

even if the most visible change is seen in the twenties and thirties because they are often the triggers of these movements.

They appear more on social networks and in real life.

It uninhibits, it gives ideas, we can identify with women who look like us.

The creativity boom

The quantity of images scrolling through the digital world has largely contributed to this wind of audacity and creativity that is sweeping over make-up.

“On these platforms, there is an explosion of make-up tutorials and trends that are creating buzz.

All this contributes to this reappearance of color.

You see it everywhere, it makes people want to try it,” notes Charly Barbier, who assures us that “all shades are wearable as long as it matches our style and personality.”

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There is no point in detaching your retina or in metamorphosing at the risk of no longer recognizing yourself.

These looks remain above all a source of inspiration and above all encourage “do it yourself”: “We don't hesitate to mix things up with our palettes or our lipsticks to obtain a personalized shade.

You have to test colors on yourself and learn from your potential mistakes, this is how you manage to dose the pigments.

This also allows us to see what suits us or not,” adds Carole Colombani.

The vitaminized looks of the season

The electric blue inverted smoky-eye 

by Yann Rebelo, make-up artist and Maybelline New York ambassador: “On the lower lashline, apply a blue eyeshadow with a fine brush, moving up towards the outer corner to awaken the eyes.

Smudge the line to create a smoky effect.

Add a black pencil in the mucous membrane and mascara, leaving the mobile eyelid bare.

The trick for better hold and more intense color?

Apply a cream blush first before adding a powder blush on top.

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by Charly Barbier, education and artistry director Nars: “It's a lipstick shade that highlights all skin tones, from the lightest to the darkest.

Its visual impact is immediate on a face.

We choose a matte finish for luscious lips and rather a satin or glossy finish for thin lips, in order to bring volume.

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by Joséphine Bouchereau, make-up artist: “Use a liquid eye shadow in silvery pink tones.

Place a little material on the back of the hand, before taking it with your finger and applying it to the entire mobile eyelid or only to the inner corner of the eye.

It creates a pretty shimmering veil of color that suits all skin tones.

It is associated with mascara and a brown pencil on the lashline to give depth and open the look.

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Because, as Yann Rebelo confirms, “today, there is no longer a rule that says you shouldn't wear blue eyeshadow because you have blue eyes.

We can afford anything, as long as we like.

The limits are specific to each one,” he says, “you have to get started and not get discouraged, it only takes practice.

Have fun testing the colors, at worst it comes off with a wipe.”

To your brushes!

The makeup trends of 2022

In images, in pictures

See the slideshow74 photos

See the slideshow74 photos