Correspondent in Jerusalem
Located along the border with the occupied West Bank, a few kilometers southwest of Nazareth, Umm al-Fahm is one of Israel's major Arab cities.
What was once a big village nestled in the hollow of a valley has become, in about fifty years, a disorderly city, spread over the hills without a plan or urban planning, over anarchic constructions.
Between the houses posed here and there, pirated connections connect the hearths to electricity: large green cables hang above streets full of potholes which adopt, according to the landscape, vertiginous angles.
With its dented bodywork and tired suspensions, Ahmad Khalifa's Japanese car goes unnoticed in the neighborhoods of Oumm al-Fahm and that's good.
In this city plagued by mafia gangs, it is better not to be noticed.
Just the day before, two families exchanged pleasantries from one street to another.
One hand on the wheel...
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