Close protection
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Courreges spring-summer 2023 fashion show. Courrèges / Press photo
Definitely the strong trend of the season.
Faced with the pangs of history and the raging climatic anxiety, designers are responding with jewels designed as ramparts.
In view, the hands sheathed in metal from the Courreges show, but also the peaked chokers from Acne Studios or Diesel, not to mention the knuckle-duster ring from the Valentino show.
An alluring counter-offensive, in short.
Figures of speech
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Chanel Spring-Summer 2023 show. Chanel / Photo press
Totem of style now essential in hybrid houses, logomania-style jewelry competes this season in creativity.
In this game, Chanel seduces with a rock crystal reinterpretation of its Hula Hoop bag, while Valentino offers a graphic and pop reading of its signature V.
Upside down
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Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2023 show. Saint Laurent / Photo press
A safe bet that has highlighted each silhouette of the Saint Laurent fashion shows since Anthony Vaccarello took over as head of the Parisian house, the spring-summer 2023 jewelry has once again set the tone.
At the top, the same sleeve effect that had already punctuated the previous season, with particular attention this time to the wearing of these bracelets, which are perched on the garment, and not underneath.
An adornment that also takes over the Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens or Off-White shows.
Neo piercings
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Balmain Spring-Summer 2023 show. Balmain / Photo press
Visual heritage of the punk culture that raged on the catwalks for fall-winter 2022-2023, the piercing offers a just excess this season by taking all the light.
Like a lip jewel at the Balmain and Messika haute joaillerie fashion shows, when Balenciaga or Giambattista Valli opt for face adornment.
An illusion, of course.
Baroque stones
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Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2023 show. Louis Vuitton / Photo press
A deluge of cabochons of different sizes and colors... It's the pretty mix & match offered by Louis Vuitton this season in chokers or XXL earrings.
A heritage spirit revisited in the manner of a more contemporary upcycling, which can also be found in a more literal way at Giambattista Valli in Paris or Carolina Herrera in New York.
A single watchword, dare the extreme volume that sets fire to the powder.
Madonna Spirit
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Blumarine spring-summer 2023 fashion show. Blumarine / Photo press
This is the project that is causing a lot of ink to flow, even though it is not even completed yet.
Expected for next year, the biopic about and directed by Madonna (starring Julia Garner in the title role) is already bringing to light the essence of her iconic style.
And above all its crucifix pendants from the Like a Prayer period, which can be found this season at Blumarine, Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana.
A divine jewel necessarily tinged, like all the trends for a few seasons, with a very early 2000s aura. Half Madonna, half Sarah Michelle Gellar in
Cruel Intentions
therefore
.