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Martin Margiela told by his labels

2022-11-20T20:18:53.629Z


For its first issue, the magazine Griffé, which makes the claws sewn inside our clothes speak, focuses on the Belgian designer who disappeared from the fashion scene in 2009.


It is the identity card of the garment.

The one that attests to a know-how and a very specific aesthetic.

The one that also allows it to be dated and authenticated.

"This little piece of fabric remains an underexploited subject while its inscriptions often reveal secrets of design, manufacture, distribution, collaboration

, insists Julien Sanders, expert in vintage fashion founder of the magazine

Griffé

with the historian of the Salome Dudemaine fashion.

Rather than talking about creation, we wanted, through the study of these labels, to get out of the overly marketed speeches of the sector and to take a greater interest in the manufacturing and production processes, in the commercial history.

For this first edition, the two enthusiasts therefore looked at the Maison Margiela labels.

The appearance of his numbers coincides with the moment when Martin Margiela becomes artistic director of Hermès, which allows him, with his partner Jenny Meirens, to diversify his own brand.

Julien Sanders, founder of the magazine Griffé

What better playground indeed than this emblematic white label that appeared from the origins of the brand, in 1988?

And the magazine to decipher the multiple modifications of this large rectangle...

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Source: lefigaro

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