Paul Chêne's restaurant, created in 1959, marked its time.
It was a cook's house, a famous table - Jean Gabin liked to order fresh mackerel with muscadet.
The pleasure of living well was celebrated there as it still is today.
It was a young thirty-year-old, Sébastien Dufour, who took over the business in 2017. This child of the stoves - the La Lorraine brewery was in the family bosom - learned his skills with the Dumant brothers, notably at the Pizzeria d'Auteuil and at the Auberge Bressane.
He belongs to this new generation of restaurateurs who undertake successfully, betting on the takeover of bistros whose codes and spirit they know how to preserve.
His brother, Adrien, looks after Le P'tit Chêne (formerly Chaumette), near the Maison de la radio.
Soon, a left bank version of the parent company will open rue du Cherche-Midi.
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But back to 123 rue Lauriston.
The door opens onto a bustling zinc counter.
At the end of the service, the empty glasses and…
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