Ancient Egypt temples, our guide to Luxor

500 kilometers south of Cairo, nestled between the desert and the green banks of the Nile, the city of Luxor reveals some of the most fascinating jewels of ancient Egypt.

3,400 years ago, what was then called Thebes was the capital of the pharaohs of the New Kingdom, the golden age of Egyptian civilization.

Its current name, "al-Qosour" in Arabic, refers to the many vestiges of this time.

Listed by Unesco, they have made Luxor one of the most visited and renowned sites in the country.

To discover

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How to organize your trip

Go

To go to Luxor, several options are available to you.

The simplest: take a flight to Cairo (4 hours from Paris) then a second to reach Luxor (1 hour from Cairo) with EgyptAir, Nile Air or Fly Egypt.

This winter, there is also a direct

flight per week (Saturdays) to Luxor from Paris Orly.

But you can also land in Hurghada and reach Luxor by road in 4 hours.

If you prefer the train, a line connects Cairo to Luxor in 10h30 journey.

Ticket to be purchased at Ramses station in Cairo or on the company's website.

Once there

In Luxor, the transport offer is varied and it is not necessary to rent a car.

Here again, several options: the taxi (negotiate well!), the minibus (taken on the side of the road) or the tuktuk.

Possibility of privatizing a taxi for the day or a minibus if you are in a group.

Depending on how many sites you want to see, it may be worth purchasing a pass.

Take the Luxor Premium Pass (€180, unlimited access to all sites and museums in Luxor for 5 days) if you plan to visit the tombs of Sethi I and Nefertari.

The Luxor Standard Pass (€90, valid for all sites and museums for 5 days except the tombs of Seti I and Nefertari) is worth it if you visit a large number of sites.

Both can be purchased at the Valley of the Kings ticket office and at Karnak Temple.

To learn more about the history, you can hire a guide.

If many local agencies organize visits, we recommend Tarek Salem, French-speaking guide and connoisseur of the region.

It offers day visits or full stays (Tel.: + 201 012 164 371, tarek_lux2006@yahoo.com).

Read alsoFrom Cairo to Aswan, an Egyptian fugue

The temple of Karnak,

"the

Mecca of the pharaohs

"

The temple of Karnak, the largest still standing in Egypt.

Adobe Stock

Dedicated to the god Amon, Karnak alone embodies all the genius and excess of the pharaohs.

3,400 years ago, this temple was the holiest in Egyptian religion.

Spread over more than 2 km², it is also the largest religious complex built in Antiquity.

Many pharaohs participated in its construction over nearly 2,000 years, including the famous Seti I, Ramses II and Ramses III.

With its forest of 134 columns, the great hypostyle hall is an architectural masterpiece.

Look up to admire the grandeur of the columns and the finesse of the hieroglyphics.

Don't miss the obelisk erected by Queen Hatshepsut either.

At 29.5 meters high, it is the tallest still standing in Egypt.

Our advice:

Karnak is the second most visited site in Egypt after the Cairo pyramids.

Choose very early in the morning or at the end of the day to avoid the crowds and not be crushed by the heat.

The site is vast: plan several hours of visit, good shoes and enough water.

Open from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Price: 200 EGP (around €11).

The temple of Luxor, to the glory of the god Amon

The temple of Luxor is guarded by the imposing colossi of Ramses II.

Adobe Stock

With its entrance guarded by the imposing colossi of Ramses II and a beautiful 26-meter obelisk, Luxor Temple will impress you as soon as you arrive.

In 1830, the second obelisk originally present was donated to France by Mehemet Ali.

It now sits on the Place de la Concorde in Paris.

Also dedicated to the god Amon, the temple is located 2.5 kilometers from Karnak.

At the time, the two shrines were connected by an aisle of 1,300 sphinxes.

Today, there are only a few dozen left that you will see at the entrance.

They were intended to protect the pharaoh during his annual procession between Karnak and Luxor: the Opet festival.

Inside, you'll see bas-reliefs depicting this ceremony, including offerings to Amun and musicians playing drums.

Our advice:

as the hours are late, take the opportunity to stay in the temple at night.

With the lighting and the calm that takes over the place, the atmosphere becomes magical.

After the visit, take a break at the Aboudi Coffee Break bookstore-café to enjoy a beautiful view of the temple and leaf through interesting books about the country.

Open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Price: 160 EGP (around €9).

The Valley of the Kings, the last resting place of the pharaohs

The Valley of the Kings is the place chosen by the pharaohs of the New Kingdom to house their tombs.

Adobe Stock / antonbelo

In this narrow valley that winds between the arid reliefs of the Libyan desert hide real treasures.

You are here on the west bank of the Nile, on the side of the setting sun, symbol of the abode of the dead, in opposition to the east bank where the temples of Karnak and Luxor dedicated to the god Amon are located.

It is the place chosen by the pharaohs of the New Kingdom to house their tombs.

If the kings of the Old and Middle Kingdoms were buried in huge pyramids, those of the New Kingdom preferred discretion to avoid (in vain) looting.

Large amounts of gold and jewels accompanied them to the afterlife.

Among the most beautiful tombs, admire those of Seti I, Ramses III, Ramses IV, Ramses VI.

Our advice:

after your visit, stop by the Ramesseum Rest House café (tel: + 201 061 848 160).

The owner, Mohammed Abdelrassoul, comes from an emblematic family of tomb discoverers and will be happy to tell you his story!

Open from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Price: 240 EGP (around €13) for general admission.

It allows you to access three tombs.

For Tutankhamun, Ramses VI and Seti I, you will have to pay an additional ticket.

The Valley of the Queens, a jewel nestled in the mountains

The Valley of the Queens is the necropolis of the royal wives, princes and princesses of the 19th and 20th dynasties.

Adobe Stock

To the south of the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens is the necropolis of the royal wives, princes and princesses of the 19th and 20th dynasties.

Less visited than the Valley of the Kings, it is home to nearly a hundred tombs.

You will discover wonders in a calmer atmosphere.

Do not especially miss that of Nefertari, the favorite wife of Ramses II.

With its almost intact decorations and bright colors, it is one of the most beautiful tombs in Egypt.

One kilometer away, the site of Deir El Medina is worth the detour.

You will see the tombs of the artists who worked on the tombs of the Valley of the Kings.

As you leave, also stop at the Colossi of Memnon, two monumental sculptures, the last vestiges of the temple of Amenhotep III.

Our advice:

the tomb of Nefertari being fragile, the number of visitors per day is limited.

It is recommended to come early.

If you want to visit it, buying the Luxor Premium Pass is worthwhile.

Open from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Price: 100 EGP for general admission (around €5) + 1,400 EGP for Nefertari's tomb (around €76).

The mortuary temple of Hatshepsut, daring female pharaoh

The mortuary temple of Hatshepsut, one of Egypt's first female pharaohs.

TO Egypt

It's hard not to marvel at this majestic funerary temple built to the glory of Hatshepsut, one of Egypt's first female pharaohs.

Built at the foot of the ocher mountains on the west bank of the Nile, it seems embedded in the cliff.

You will be struck by the symmetry and perspective of its architecture.

The building is made up of three terraces with, at each level, a portico supported by a row of pillars.

On the third portico, observe the pillars with the effigy of the queen.

She is represented as a man with a fake beard, a sign of the struggle she had to lead to be accepted as a female pharaoh.

Monumental access ramps reinforce the feeling of grandeur.

Nothing less was needed to inscribe the reign of Hatshepsut in eternity.

Our advice:

as the temple faces due east, get there early to take advantage of the first light that illuminates the cliff.

Don't miss the third terrace and its panoramic view of the Nile Valley.

Open from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Price: 140 EGP (around €8).

Practical notebook

WHEN TO GO

The months of November to February are the most favorable.

During the day, you will avoid the heat, while enjoying a beautiful sunshine.

In January, the temperature is 23°C on average during the day and 9°C at night.

From March, it exceeds 30°C and in summer, it can be over 40°C.

Avoid to fully enjoy the visit.

OR SLEEP

At New Memnom

.

For an immersion in both rural and ancient Egypt, we advise you to stay on the west bank of the Nile, far from the hustle and bustle of the city center.

This small family hotel is located 2 km from the Valley of the Queens and 7 km from the Valley of the Kings.

You will be very close to the archaeological sites and will enjoy a magnificent view of the sugar cane fields.

From €35 per night.

New Memnom

Memnon Street, West Bank (just outside the Colossi of Memnon).

Such.

: + 209 520 609 84.

At the Iberotel.

On the east bank of the Nile, closer to the city center of Luxor, this property will offer you stunning views of the river, a beautiful outdoor swimming pool and modern rooms.

10 minutes walk from Luxor Temple.

From €44 per night.

Iberotel, Khaled Ibn El Walid Street.

Such.

: + 209 523 809 25.

GOOD DINING

At Panorama Restaurant.

Located between the Valley of the Queens and the Valley of the Kings, this canteen is a pleasant stopover between your visits.

You will enjoy a large terrace with a panoramic view of the cultivated fields of the Nile valley on one side and the Theban mountain on the other.

Simple Egyptian cuisine at affordable prices.

Panorama Restaurant, Zamzam, New Qurna.

Such.

: + 201 026 056 407.

At Aladdin's Kingdom.

To enjoy a pleasant setting on the banks of the Nile, Aladdin's is a great option.

In a large garden planted with banana trees, you will taste Egyptian dishes while watching the feluccas pass on the river.

Aladdin's Kingdom, Banana Island, Al Bairat Al Gorf.

WHAT TO BRING

For traditional gemstone jewellery, statuettes and handicrafts, the Old Shop (tel: + 201 001 212 168) is a good address.

For works by contemporary artists, take a trip to the Luxor Art Gallery.

Memnon Street, Al Qarna (tel: + 201 064 924 426).

[Originally published in September 2020, this article has been updated.]