"I'll never do it again": mountaineer reports on horror expedition on Manaslu - His Sherpa died

Created: 11/29/2022, 3:40 p.m

By: Martin Becker

"I'll never do anything like that again": The ascent of Manaslu ended in an emotional fiasco for Nicolas Scheidtweiler.

© Private

Nicolas Scheidtweiler wanted to climb Manaslu, the eighth highest mountain on earth.

It was an emotionally very draining trip to the 8000m peak in Nepal.

Neubiberg – frustration and boredom.

disappointment and tears.

suffering and death.

Expedition-style mountaineering: For Nicolas Scheidtweiler (46), alumnus of the Bundeswehr University in Neubiberg, the attempt to climb Manaslu in Nepal, the eighth highest mountain on earth at 8163 meters, ended with a flood of negative experiences.

"Something like that," says the ambitious alpinist, "I'll never do anything again."

Something like that: Scheidtweiler means “the whole pipapo” of expedition tourism.

In 2021 he had the alpine scene sit up and take notice when he and professional mountaineer Jost Kobusch made the first ascent of the 6465 meter high Purbung in the Himalayas.

For two – plus a Sherpa: Anup.

Who now, on the Manaslu, lost his life.

But more on that later.

"Various Incidents"

After studying political and social sciences, Nicolas Scheidtweiler received his diploma from the Bundeswehr University in 2005.

Even though he has now emigrated to Tyrol: He still keeps in touch with Neubiberg through the university's alumni program, where his mountaineering activities are closely followed.

After Purbung 2021 it should be Manaslu this year.

The idea: up to 8163 meters without bottled oxygen, down on skis.

Both didn't work.

"There were," says Scheidtweiler, "various incidents."

The 46-year-old spent 40 days in Nepal, in the meantime he made it to High Camp III at 6,600 meters and deposited his skis there.

He had invested around 15,000 euros in the Manaslu expedition through the Satori Adventures agency.

But the hoped-for mountain adventure turned more and more into a nightmare.

"There was no weather window that would have been reasonable from an alpinist point of view," reports Scheidtweiler.

Normally, the summit success rate on Manaslu is 90 percent, this time only a good ten percent came up.

Scheidtweiler was not one of them.

Last picture together with Sherpa Anup (r.).

© Private

Extreme fresh snowfalls made conditions difficult this season, and an avalanche even swept down to base camp.

In total, at least 26 people died in several avalanche accidents, including top mountaineer Hilaree Nelson from the USA (we reported in the national sports section).

And Anup, the Sherpa.

For Scheidtweiler, he was far more than just an assistant on the mountain.

A few days later, Anup should have been the 46-year-old's summit Sherpa.

Both got to know and appreciate each other in 2021, on the first ascent of Purbung.

"When I heard the name Anup and about his death, everything collapsed in me," says Scheidtweiler.

At the base camp he burst into tears, "I couldn't stop crying".

In his mind's eye, the memories of 2021 ran like a movie: "How Anup makes a mountain river passable for us with stones, how he brings us coke at 5500 meters, how he plays chess with us, how he does fun fitness exercises."

"Now it was finally clear, the expedition is over."

The bad news of the fatal avalanche accident upset Nicolas Scheidtweiler, he was torn: “Should I leave, should I stay?” On the one hand, it “doesn’t make any sense to die for something like that”.

On the other hand, the 46-year-old was now well acclimatized and physically fit.

The decision is made - for a new attempt at Manaslu, just a few days later: "I had to take the chance.

Anup would not have objected.”

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But the weather was against it, Scheidtweiler only made it to high camp II before one and a half meters of fresh snow and more avalanches stopped him: "Now it was finally clear, the expedition is over."

Nicolas Scheidtweiler was still in good spirits at 5106 meters.

That changed in High Camp III. © Private

Back at home, the 46-year-old ponders: what has been left of experience and knowledge?

As an experienced mountaineer, he was bothered by the base camp hustle and bustle with 8000m aspirants "who have no idea about alpinism, but have a huge mouth".

And he realized for himself that expedition mountaineering, with a bloated base camp and high camp chain, is not good for him: “Basically, it’s terribly boring!

The climb to camp I, on a moderately steep glacier, is nothing but snow plods.

And in base camp, no matter how well thought-out all the processes are: you sit around a lot, wait for food, sit around again.”

No, once is enough: "That was my only 8000m expedition, I'll never make that effort again," says Scheidtweiler.

"I admire people like Reinhold Messner, who has probably done something like this 28 times for his 14 eight-thousanders." For 2023 he has therefore set himself a new goal: the first ascent of a 7000er, again in alpine style, i.e. with a small team: He himself, a mountain professional Jost Kobusch plus a Sherpa.

It won't be Anup anymore, but he will never be forgotten.

More news from Neubiberg and the district of Munich can be found here.