Everyone is talking about it, from the red carpets of festivals to the Ministry of Economy and Finance, from Instagram to Buckingham Palace, in major museums and of course, on the catwalks of fashion shows.
Having become a universal socio-cultural phenomenon, fashion is everywhere, loved or hated, creative and speculative, as much criticized for its environmental impact as it is applauded for its ability to revitalize the French territory through its manufactures, crafts and crafts.
After a complicated period of pandemic, this industry experienced a new golden age in 2022, revealing new talents and consolidating the big names in luxury whose turnover has exploded in recent months.
Trends, controversies, red carpets, Netflix effect, transfer window and favorites... Summary.
Part 2.
The Netflix Effect
It is impossible to take stock of 2022 without mentioning the series that have carried the colors of fashion high.
At the forefront of which
Emily in Paris
, on Netflix.
We'll spare you the details of the juicy business of product placements in this perky soap opera about the somewhat corny adventures of an American expatriate in the French capital.
Just know that the wardrobe of the series has become (in season 3 broadcast since December 21) a character in its own right.
And that through her fault, you can no longer wear a beret in Paris without looking like a fan on a pilgrimage.
The phenomenon Emily in Paris on Netflix wears high the colors of fashion.
netflix
Another Netflix creation that boosted sales in fashion stores,
Mercredi
, the fiction by Tim Burton released on November 23.
Played by Jenna Ortega, the eldest of the Addams Family would have relaunched the gothic trend among teenagers.
In recent weeks, TikTok has been passionate about her black collared dress, her chiffon prom queen outfit, her plaid sweaters and her platform derbies (branded Prada).
On Wednesday, the new Netflix fiction, signed Tim Burton, boosts sales in fashion boutiques.
netflix
Last but not least, this summer, season 5 of Stranger Things (on... Netflix) not only put Kate Bush's hit
Running Up That Hill
back at the top of the iTunes and Spotify world rankings, but also relaunched the look from 1986 (fluorescent, colorful surfer trousers, pleated jeans, metalhead T-shirts...), the year in which the plot takes place.
The return of window shopping
During the Covid, some had announced the end of shops in town, weakened by the Yellow Vests and defeated by online commerce.
Nay!
The queues in front of Parisian stores every weekend prove the contrary.
Moreover, fashion and jewelry brands have taken the opportunity to re-enchant their historical addresses.
Like Dior, which reopened the doors of 30 avenue Montaigne in March, over 10,000 square meters with gardens, a restaurant by Jean Imbert, a small museum and even a VIP suite.
In March, Dior reopened its mythical address at 30 rue Montaigne.
Adrian Dirand
And Cartier which, after two years of construction, unveiled in October the new decor of its legendary 13 rue de La Paix, where the jeweler has been established since 1899. And proof that fashion still believes in the virtues of window shopping. , the young brand Jacquemus, which owes its insolent success to its website, inaugurated its first real store in September on the venerable avenue Montaigne, which Gen Z now frequents.
Read alsoSimon Porte Jacquemus: “Avenue Montaigne is a childhood dream”
They left us
Nino Cerruti.
The child of Biella, who launched his brand in Paris in 1967, was the heir of a spinning mill.
Having become a designer, he was one of the first to deconstruct the male costume, to create more flexible models made in light fabrics.
In withdrawal for several years, he died in hospital in Vicenza, Italy, on January 17, 2022, at the age of 92.
Thierry Mugler.
He had created his own universe, extravagant, full of haute couture chimeras, because he felt rejected by the "ordinary" world.
The French designer who changed the face of the 1980s died at the age of 73 in his sleep on January 24.
Patrick Demarchelier.
Known for his legendary fashion photos (notably in Vogue), this brilliant portrait painter, who had photographed Princess Diana in 1990 for a shot passed down to posterity, left us following a long illness at the age of 78, on March 31. .
Read alsoThierry Mugler, a sacred monster of fashion, is gone
Jean Dinh Van.
He was one of the apostles of new jewelry, breaking with traditional motifs and a classical vision.
This craftsman-creator studied at Cartier in New York in the 1960s, then used his free spirit to invent shapes (such as the Handcuffs or the Maillon) that still make the reputation of the brand that bears his name today.
After reselling it at the dawn of the 21st century, he retired to Touraine where he died on July 3, at the age of 94.
Read alsoJean Dinh Van, the creator of new jewelry
Issey Miyake.
His "pleats" have fascinated several generations of creative and elegant men and women, in search of comfortable and daring fashion: the Japanese designer who has devoted his life to creation through a dialogue between East and West, died at age 84 on August 5 in Tokyo.
Japanese designer Issey Miyake died on August 5, 2022 in Tokyo, at the age of 84.
Brigitte Lacombe
Janie Samet.
Great pen of the fashion pages of
Le Figaro
, the one who was on all the parades for more than half a century, close to Yves Saint Laurent whom she had been the first to interview, died in Cannes, where she resided. , at 91, on December 5.
Read alsoJanie Samet, legendary feather in the fashion pages of Le Figaro, is dead
Bad buzz and other flops
We won't list the many accusations of cultural appropriation brought rightly or wrongly against Western brands, nor the multiple scandals involving influencers eating at all the fast fashion racks.
Under the magnifying effect of social networks, fashion has experienced many controversies this year.
Like Saint Laurent which, for its fashion show in Morocco in July, created a pool of water that is out of step with global environmental awareness.
At the beginning of October, during Paris Fashion Week, Kanye West / Ye, declared bipolar, began his descent into hell by parading a “White Lives Matters” T-shirt claimed by American supremacists then by multiplying tweets against Bernard Arnault and antisemitic statements in the media.
At the end of November, Balenciaga was tripping over the carpet with two advertising campaigns: one featuring children with stuffed animals harnessed in leather - Demna, the designer, subsequently apologized personally for "this bad choice artistic”;
the other involving in the background printed papers of a 2008 United States Supreme Court opinion on child pornography - an unintentional mistake by the production company in charge and a particularly unfortunate negligence on the part of the brand as assumed by CEO Cédric Charbit in a press release.
In addition to its commitment to NGOs in favor of abused children which should soon be implemented,
the fashion house will probably have to speak up to come back to this major crisis which is jeopardizing the economic health of the company in the bosom of Kering.
Finally under the flops, the metaverse which has not kept its promises of digital revolution with in particular a failed virtual Fashion Week.
But 2023 might just be the one!
The makings of the pioneers at the museum
To its pioneers, grateful fashion.
Frida Kahlo and Elsa Schiaparelli, brilliantly celebrated in two illustrious museums in the capital this year, have cultivated a conscious style and art, to make it a manifesto of strength and femininity.
Through their clothes and their folklore, their creations and their privileged relationships with the artists of their time, they remain modern figures of matriarchy, surrealism and fantasy.
Frida Kahlo by Julien Levy, around 1938 Private collection Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo archives, Bank of México, fiduciary in the Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera Museums Trust
Still current at the start of 2023, these exhibitions for the general public which combine education and archives (personal objects and clothing, jewellery, photographs, tributes from the fashion designers they have inspired), telling the power of imagination and creativity, display already record attendance.
“Shocking!
The surreal worlds of Elsa Schiaparelli”, until January 22 at the Museum of Decorative Arts, Paris 1er and “Frida Kahlo.
Beyond appearances”, until March 5 at the Palais Galliera, Paris 16th.
Read alsoClothing, the banner of pioneers
Those who broke the internet
First on the (long) list of viral fashion moments this year was Louis Vuitton's ad campaign featuring Messi and Ronaldo playing chess on a checkerboard suitcase in front of Annie Leibovitz's lens.
This meeting of titans (in all the fields involved, luxury, football and photography) published in November on the accounts of the two Golden Balls and the trunk maker, currently has nearly 88 million likes.
Louis Vuitton's ad campaign featuring Messi and Ronaldo playing chess in front of Annie Leibovitz's lens breaks Instagram likes record.
Louis Vuitton
Last October, it was the Coperni show-performance that ignited Instagram, with the video of the "spray dress" made live, thanks to two aerosols, on the body of the star model Bella Hadid.
Other digital hits, the spring-summer 2023 fashion show by Miu Miu (more than 23 million views on TikTok), the collaboration between Jacquemus and Nike (500,000 Internet users visited the French brand's site when this launch was announced) and Barbie pink (a near-exclusive shade from the Valentino Winter 2022 collection) which saw a +416% increase in online searches in June when the first photos of Margot Robbie, who plays the famous Mattel doll in the film by Greta Gerwig.
The pink wave should continue to break since the blockbuster will be released only in July 2023.