The fashion shows, the red carpets and the turtleneck of Emmanuel Macron... The worst and the best of fashion in 2022

Everyone is talking about it, from the red carpets of festivals to the Ministry of Economy and Finance, from Instagram to Buckingham Palace, in major museums and of course, on the catwalks of fashion shows.

Having become a universal socio-cultural phenomenon, fashion is everywhere, loved or hated, creative and speculative, as much criticized for its environmental impact as it is applauded for its ability to revitalize the French territory through its manufactures, crafts and crafts.

After a complicated period of pandemic, this industry experienced a new golden age in 2022, revealing new talents and consolidating the big names in luxury whose turnover has exploded in recent months.

Trends, controversies, red carpets, Netflix effect, transfer window and favorites... Summary.

Part 1.

Nostalgia, comrades

The "Y2K" (pronounced ouaï-tou-ké) for "Years 2000" (the 2000s) will have been the big trend for 2022. era by Paris Hilton and Britney Spears.

In Paris, tight-fitting Marcia dresses with openwork on the sides using a clever hook-and-loop system are a hit.

In Milan, Kim Kardashian remixed this decade's Dolce & Gabbana archives and the Hilton heiress returned to work for the Versace show.

Paris Hilton walks for Versace.

Versace

Certainly, nothing new under the sun of fashion which does not stop recycling the more or less recent past since Saint Laurent in 1971 rehabilitated the 1940s and in a way invented vintage couture.

In short, as we often write in these columns, it is neither more nor less than the fashion cycle.

Next time travel?

The years 2006-12 which saw the hipster boom and which those under 20 call “indie sleaze”.

luxury transfer window

The last time the fashion industry played musical chairs was in the years 2015-2018.

Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Demna at Balenciaga, Hedi Slimane at Celine, Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta, Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were then named... This period was marked by the boom in streetwear and sportswear, (on) Asian consumption, logomania, gender-fluid, etc.

As regular as a metronome, fashion has logically sketched out the opposite movement in 2022. We have thus seen in reaction to the tracksuits of confinement, the return of the suit, leather shoes, a more timeless luxury and a renewal generational.

So much so that the departures and arrivals at the head of the big brands have not been lacking, especially at the end of the year.

Alessandro Michele announced his departure from Gucci in November.

Getty

In London, Lee is now at Burberry (first collection in the coming months), the English institution which parted ways with Riccardo Tisci in September - the Italian has since started dressing celebrities on red carpets.

In Italy, Ferragamo named Manchester designer Maximilian Davis and Bally named Californian Rhuigi Villaseñor.

In Paris, the non-binary Briton Harris Reed has joined Nina Ricci while the rising French star Ludovic de Saint Sernin takes the creative reins of the cult Antwerp brand Ann Demeulemeester and will show next March.

After celebrating at a Paris fashion show in January, the memory of its menswear artistic director, Virgil Abloh,

Clothing, more political than ever

The question animated the summer: should MPs be forced to wear jackets and, hey, why not, ties?

Deploring "a form of laxity in dress and behavior of an increasingly large number of deputies, in particular from LFI", Éric Ciotti had pleaded for an obligation to wear this piece of silk for men.

To which the president of the LFI group in the National Assembly Mathilde Panot and Alexis Corbière replied: “Why ask deputies to “disguise” themselves in another social class than the one from which they come and that they wish to represent?

On November 9, the deputies finally came out in favor of wearing a jacket in the hemicycle, the tie simply remaining “recommended”.

In September, it was the turn of the turtleneck to fuel political debates, when said sweater was proposed as a solution to energy sobriety issues by Bruno Lemaire on France Inter.

At the same time, the brands, Eric Bompard in the lead, were riding the wave with the backing of advertising campaigns while Emmanuel Macron, a long-time follower of the turtleneck under the jacket, gave it a layer.

“It protects in winter, finally clarified the Minister of the Economy on his Facebook page. You do not need a minister to know that.

You need his clothing recommendations even less.”

Follower of the turtleneck, Emmanuel Macron threaded the mesh again after Bruno Lemaire proposed it as a solution to energy sobriety.

Getty

In the street, it is another item of clothing with high symbolic value that young girls have taken over.

which, in 2021, had set fire to the powder by being deprived of high school.

This undergarment banished by feminists at the time of the First World War is now worn in full view of all as a garment of power.

On the other hand, no citizenship for tap-socks at the Elsa-Triolet college in Saint-Denis, which banned them in its internal regulations at the beginning of September, for the reason that this stylistic association inherited from rap and basketball would be dangerous. .. in chemistry class!

Read alsoHow the corset became the new crop top for young girls

The golden age of red carpets

Never have we commented so much on the outfits of the red carpets.

It must be said that during this exercise, celebrities are taking more and more stylistic risks (which are the joy of social networks).

In particular, two young men, Timothée Chalamet and Harry Styles who, at 26 and 28, have dared to film premieres and other musical awards throughout the year, all manner of sequined jumpsuits, sultry bare backs, coats with pink feathers, pearl necklaces...

The singer Harry Styles all dressed in feathers and pink on stage, redefines the masculine gender.

@Harry Styles

Also very publicized, the outfits of Rihanna who did not hesitate for nine months, to (un)dress her belly of a future mother, jewelry and transparent babydolls.

Finally, controversial but memorable, the sheath that Marilyn Monroe wore in 1962 to celebrate her birthday to "Mr President" taken from the archives of a museum by Kim Kardashian to climb the steps of the Met Gala last May.

Marilyn Monroe, a timeless icon

Elizabeth II, model to follow

If the Queen of England, who died on September 8, was far from being a "fashion maker", her style left nothing to chance.

Over seven decades of reign, the sovereign, among the most photographed women in the world,

: colorful suits, hat on her head and small black handbag at the bend of the elbow.

The one who had no executive role but an enormous power of representation knew the importance of clothing, just like her illustrious ancestor, Queen Victoria who marked history with her love of black and the austerity of her toilets.

In recent years,

, the photographs of Elisabeth's looks throughout her life were also looping on social networks.

If the Queen of England, who died on September 8, was far from being a "fashion maker", her style left nothing to chance.

Getty

Read alsoThe Crown effect: the 1996 Lady Dior reissued

Heartbeat / punch

The revelation of 2022 will have been the Frenchman Matthieu Blazy who presented his first two shows for Bottega Veneta in Milan, in February and September.

His clothes, designed for ordinary life but made from extraordinary materials and know-how, are free from any logo and are never demonstrative.

His leather jeans and pea coats with a domed back are already collectors' items.

Kate Moss paraded for the first collection of Matthieu Blazy for Bottega Veneta, in Milan, in February.

Bottega Veneta

It just so happens that it was her partner, the Belgian Pieter Mulier, who was another sensation of the year with his increasingly powerful and relevant collections for Alaïa.

Also to be marked with a white stone, the Balenciaga show on March 6, 2022, two weeks after the invasion of Ukraine by Russia, where the models advanced in a snowstorm, garbage bags carrying their belongings to the hand.

Artistic director Demna himself fled his native Georgia and experienced the living conditions of refugees.

The Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2022-23 show in March.

Balenciaga