Scalloped hair, sculpted heart-catchers on the forehead, elongated eyebrows and black painted eyes: the make-up and hairstyle of the Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 show paid a vibrant tribute to the iconic look of Joséphine Baker.
A retro makeover where the accent was particularly placed on the eyes.
“It's in a very 'Roaring Twenties' spirit with
underground
'jazzy' accents that I imagined a look underlined by a game of black shadows mixed with silver, all in transparency.
It's a slightly raw blurred smoky eye, which plays on light effects and gives mystery,” describes Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior makeup.
Behind the scenes of the show, the
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Madame Figaro.-
What inspired you to create this make-up?
Peter Philips
.-
Maria Grazia (Chiuri, artistic director of Dior, editor's note) sent me a photo of Joséphine Baker.
I was inspired by this "jazzy" nightclub atmosphere of the 20s and 30s, this "underground" scene where strong and expressive women who lived for their art were glorified.
I transcribed this by creating a smoky eye and a luminous complexion.
The "glowy" skin effect is to evoke this kind of ambient dampness during these evenings in a club to dance.
And there is nothing more representative of the 20s than the smoky eye!
This combination creates the perfect match.
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Madame Figaro.-
How did you reinterpret this makeup basic?
Peter Philips
.-
I favored transparency and luminosity.
With a black eyeliner, I traced only the edge of the eye, the roots of the eyelashes and the outer corner of the eyes.
Then, with a soft brush for the eyes, I affixed a black shadow on the upper eyelid by stretching the gesture towards the temples.
I open the eye by also highlighting the level of the eyelashes of the lower eyelid with the same make-up.
Then, I added a silver touch in the inner corner of the eye.
I didn't use mascara, just curled the lashes.
Finally, I just enhanced the eyebrows by brushing them and lengthening them a little bit like in the 20s-30s.
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If it moves a little on the eyelid, that's okay.
This is what creates the charm of this makeup, precisely
Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director of Dior Makeup
Madame Figaro.-
Your trick to make this smoky eye last until dawn?
Peter Philips
.-
Add a tiny bit of moisturizer to the eye brush and apply the mixture directly to the eyelid.
It sets makeup well and creates a beautiful shine.
The material becomes a little greasy, it slips into the folds.
If it moves a little on the eyelid, that's okay.
This is what creates the charm of this makeup, precisely.
Madame Figaro.-
This “lively” and unstable make-up appearance that glides over the eyelid is daring.
Peter Philips
.-
The result is a dark and enlightened halo at the same time, a bit raw, without too much primer.
It's not complicated to make because you can almost do it with your fingers.
And it stays on your face nicely thanks to that slightly “sweat smeared” effect.
This is very flattering makeup.
It's something anyone can do... if you're not too precious!
Focus on the makeup of the Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 show
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow05 photos
See the slideshow05 photos