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Anti-wrinkle active ingredients, facial massage, dietary supplements... What really works?

2023-01-30T06:04:56.562Z


In 2023, getting older is no longer taboo. But we might as well do it harmoniously, with panache, optimism and foresight. Routines that really work, new easy techniques… To take stock of the subject, the experts answer our questions.


1. Why is the word anti-aging controversial?

While some brands like Avène, Dior, Guerlain or Helena Rubinstein speak of reversing the phenomenon of cellular aging;

that Sisley, Caudalie and Estée Lauder (among others) boost sirtuins, our "longevity proteins", that people over 50 are becoming less and less invisible and that in some Swiss maternities, they freeze the stem cells of their new -born to build health capital for life..., the words rejuvenate or anti-aging set social networks on fire.

Today, we have the right to fight against wrinkles, sagging, spots, dryness, cellulite, but not against age, because it is not a negative phenomenon and we should not be ashamed of it. .

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Even the term “aging well” makes some people furious, because it seems like a new injunction.

We have the right to trade the years as we see fit, and there's no right or wrong way to deal with Kronos.

However, yes!

Well in his skin and in good health!

Similarly, a so-called anti-aging cream never stopped time, but "prevents or corrects the visible signs of ageing".

After

better aging

,

well aging

,

soft aging

, finally

age neutrality

 ?

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2. From what age do we age?

A priori, as soon as you leave your mother's womb, but you don't arrive on Earth completely unarmed.

Our organs, and in particular the skin, are equipped with quite powerful defense and repair tools, but which, it is true, wear out over the years.

At 50, we have lost 50% of our hyaluronic acid.

“The first visible signs of aging appear as soon as growth is complete,” says Marie-Hélène Lair, director of scientific communication at Clarins.

"Or between 20 and 30 years", confirms Nathalie Broussard, head of scientific communication Shiseido.

3. Will we have our mother's face at the same age?

It was often the case before, when we lived like her, but times have changed.

Today, at 50, you almost look like a teenager.

On the other hand, we also inherit genetic material from a dad, from many ancestors, and we especially know that our DNA is not everything.

“All the twin studies have proven that.

According to his experience, we have neither the same head nor the same physical condition.

Intrinsic aging only represents around 10 to 20%, remind our experts.

The rest comes from external aggressions and our way of life: UV rays, food, sleep, tobacco, alcohol, stress, medication.

Just as we talk about accelerated ageing, we can also apply the brakes.

Work on epigenetics has shown us that all these factors influence the very expression of genes,

rejoices Marie-Hélène Lair.

The good news is that there is no fatality, that nothing is played and that we can, to a certain extent, pilot our future.

Another way to take responsibility.

Without depriving yourself of everything because pleasure, well dosed, also has its role to play in longevity.

Other

good news

 : "I see a big awareness among young women about prevention," says Sandrine Silvestre, director of training at Guerlain spas.

4. Which assets really work?

“Aging is such a complex phenomenon that the button-pressing active ingredient that acts miraculously on a biological target does not exist,” insists Xavier Ormancey, Pierre Fabre research director.

In addition, each brand has its molecule, its strategy or its favorite plant that it constantly studies and improves, the orchid at Guerlain, the vanilla at Chanel, the rose at Dior and Lancôme... That said, some ingredients have proven their effectiveness: vitamins E and C, retinol, centella asiatica, polyphenols (including resveratrol), AHAs (salicylic acid, glycolic acid, etc.), peptides.

Very fashionable at the moment, niacinamide or vitamin B3, aloe vera and edelweiss.

Without forgetting hyaluronic acid, the undisputed emperor of cosmetics,

Aging is such a complex phenomenon that the active button-press that acts miraculously on a biological target does not exist.

Xavier Ormancey, Research Director Pierre Fabre

5. What exactly are peptides?

“They have been used in cosmetics for a long time and most anti-aging products contain them,” confirms Annie Black, scientific director of Lancôme, but science is constantly reinventing them and, this season, they are talking about them again. .

"Peptides are protein fractions made up of amino acids, essential for many functions of the skin," continues the expert.

They stimulate the formation of collagen, elastin and other important structural proteins in the dermis, slow down the natural processes of degradation of the same collagen and elastin, prevent pigmentation, send messages to all levels to promote its regeneration…”

Read alsoLifting, plumping, boost of radiance: after 40 years, five creams to test to slow down aging

Like the letters of the alphabet, these peptides are associated with each other to form words.

However, Lancôme wants to rewrite the dictionary of youth.

Most of the time, we use synthetic peptides, but, thanks to green sciences, its laboratories innovate with a concentrate of 300 different natural peptides from flax, lupine and peas.

In the new Rénergie HPN 300-peptide cream, which comes out in March, this complex acts on the three essential compartments of the skin to correct wrinkles, fade dark spots, firm and reduce sagging by 27% in eight weeks.

And as the buttery texture is exquisite, we put it morning and evening.

Peptides are also in the spotlight in many anti-aging treatments of all persuasions, notably at myBlend, Estée Lauder, Darphin, Pai, Elizabeth Arden, Holidermie, Drunk Elephant, Etat Pur,

6. Where are we with stem cells?

This time, it's Bruno Bavouzet, president of Dior research, who answers us, on the strength of twenty years of research on stem cells renamed mother cells, 20 academic collaborations, 100 scientific publications and 10 patents that support the new edition of the Capture Totale star serum.

“Rejuvenation is no longer science fiction,” he says.

We know that the number of stem cells – sorry, mothers – does not decrease with age, but their energy and their potential for regeneration do.

As we do not change a winning team, but we can always make it more efficient, it is always the longoza, this pioneer plant from Madagascar, which will give them some pep.

There it is, boosted by a new extraction process, multi-fermentation.

Seconded by the

hyaluronic acid and iris of Florence, it awakens the skin's youthful potential and corrects eight main signs of ageing.

First, with a surface tightening effect, then in-depth work.

Its effectiveness has been demonstrated with an unprecedented test protocol around the world, which includes all genders, ages, skin types and skin tones... And it works on everyone!

Rejuvenation is no longer science fiction

Bruno Bavouzet

7. Can a treatment really firm up?

Today, cosmetics are capable of smoothing the surface of the skin and aesthetic medicine fills in macrogrooves with a single bite.

For relaxation, it's a different story.

“We can act, reassures us Patrick Choisy, director of the LVMH innovation department, provided we do it very early and not dream: a biological process cannot be reboosted in a month”.

8. Are facial massages really useful?

More than ever !

“It's been proven that mechanical stimulation boosts fibroblasts, therefore the production of collagen and elastin, improves microcirculation and cellular exchanges, comments Nathalie Broussard.

Without skipping the well-being effect which contributes to efficiency.

With age, the sensory receptors in the skin are somewhat dampened, so the older you get, the more you have to touch your skin.

Similarly, massage has been shown to be more effective when given by another person, preferably a pro.”

As soon as we can, we treat ourselves to a facial in an institute.

“It's not just the quality of the skin, adds Dr. Pascale Rousseau, morphologist and anti-aging doctor.

The cutaneous envelope rests on the muscles, the muscles on the bones… which melt over time.

In video, "Selfcare": facial massage by Delphine Langlois, facialist

At Guerlain, we have developed 200 gestures for the face and 300 for the body, all of which have a specific function.

In the Imperial Lift Sculpt Treatment, there is no pre-established protocol for everyone, but one hour of powerful massage, which is equivalent to a sports session with warm-up and muscle work, drainage, calming phase with ice balls .

The key is a radiant complexion, a more open gaze and plumped cheekbones.

Always top also, the care of the Clarins institutes, the house Sisley, the house Carita, the house myBlend.

You can also hire the services of a facialist.

It's not cheap (on average 300 € per session), but the results are paying off.

In the address book, we register Chantal Lehmann, Sophie Carbonari, Delphine Langlois, Anne Cali, Farnaz Archange…

9. What food supplements should I take to slow down aging?

Huge problem, because no one has the same needs, nor the same metabolism, nor the same microbiota, nor the same life... The ideal would be to do a real check-up with blood test and screening for food intolerances, in a doctor specializing in anti-aging or a specialized center such as the Maison Epigenetic, in Paris, the Chenot Palace Weggis or the Clinique Nescens, in Switzerland.

In the latter, Dr. Addor recalls that nothing replaces diet, physical activity and sleep and that there is no miracle ingredient, but admits that certain interesting molecules can help the ideal functioning of the organization.

Which ones?

Resveratrol, omega-3, matcha green tea, turmeric, pyrimidine found in pomegranate, not too many vitamin A and E supplements,

but rather in group B vitamins, C at will, D associated with K2, if the rate is low.

Without forgetting the minerals and trace elements.

He recommends an ampoule of isotonic marine plasma daily, or hypertonic as a two-month cure, and magnesium in the evening.

Read alsoFood supplements or grandmother's recipes: what really works to optimize your immune system

For those who do not support intermittent fasting, he recommends drinking a cup of

keto coffee

(or ketogenic coffee) in the morning, coffee mixed with coconut oil, ideal to avoid sugar cravings and junk food which, them, accelerate aging.

Last advice: expose yourself to daylight for ten minutes without glasses, preferably early in the morning.

Cosmetic brands, meanwhile, are betting more and more on

in & out

formulas that combine treatments and capsules… myBlend, Holidermie, Dr Barbara Sturm, aime, 111 Skin, D-Lab.

Finally, all the world popes of longevity, such as Pr Valter Longo, gerontologist expert in fasting, Dr David A. Sinclair, of Harvard Medicine School, or Jean-Marc Lemaître, author of

Healing Old Age

, at Éditions Humensciences, talk about metformin, this drug against diabetes which would also play a beneficial role against aging.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2023-01-30

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