Northern Brittany: Bréhat, Batz and Sein
Rich in their differences in Brittany, the islands of the Emerald Coast, Granite Rose, or Finistère offer faces that are both rural and maritime, peaceful and fiery.
If you have already scoured Ouessant, Molène, Cézembre or the Sept-Îles, here are three jewels to take refuge in for some tonic Robinsonades.
To discover
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BRÉHAT THE TROPICAL (CÔTES-D'ARMOR)
Passing a few miles offshore, the warm current of the Gulf Stream endows this enchanting island of the
Côtes-d'Armor
with a microclimate conducive to the development of roses, passionflowers, but also eucalyptus, fig trees and other honeysuckles.
Nestled in the middle of an archipelago, "the
garden island
" is the most advanced Breton land in the English Channel;
you can stroll there on foot or by bike, passing from the south island to the north island (the wildest) by the bridge built by Vauban in 1694, to
the Paon lighthouse
, all of pink granite.
From there, you can see the swell coming from the other side of the Atlantic: exhilarating!
How to get there ?
From the Arcouest pier, located 7 km north of Paimpol, you can cross in 10 minutes by boat with the Vedettes de Bréhat (vedettesdebrehat.com; excursions with free time on the island are offered in summer from Saint -Quay-Portrieux/Binic and Erquy).
Where to have lunch?
The town of Bréhat, about ten minutes walk from the port, concentrates almost all the shops and restaurants of the archipelago.
But the best option is to buy something to concoct a picnic there, to enjoy lazing around in the fragrant coves without waiting.
Read alsoThe Emerald Coast from Cancale to Cap Fréhel, immersed in elegant Brittany
BATZ THE GENEROUS (FINISTERE)
After only a quarter of an hour of crossing by boat, we stroll and breathe fresh air in Batz, a small island town located off Roscoff in northern Finistère.
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2 km from Roscoff, the family-friendly and lush Île de Batz (pronounced Ba) is a concentration of botanical wealth on a pocket territory: 3.5 km long and 1.5 km wide.
The
mild oceanic climate
that caresses it allows high quality market gardening;
the primeurs grow remarkably on the 180 ha of cultivated land, ¾ of which is organically farmed - you will take full advantage of it in the restaurants on the island!
After enjoying the beautiful
white sand beaches
, we visit the intoxicating
Georges Delaselle garden
(jardin-georgesdelaselle.bzh; adult price €6, child price €3) where palm trees and cacti compete with more than 2,500 species of trees and flowers from all over the world.
Due to the work carried out on the site, the garden is closed to the public and will open its doors again on April 1, 2023. An unmarked path allows you to walk along the 10 km coast in 2.5 hours.
How to get there ?
In 15 minutes from Roscoff, with the Vedettes de l'île de Batz (vedettes-ile-de-batz.com; adult round trip €10, child round trip €2-6).
No cars circulate on the island.
Or sleep ?
At the charming hotel Les Herbes Folles, for its breathtaking view of the sea and its very cozy atmosphere (hotel-iledebatz.com; double room €89-115 depending on the season).
Read alsoBay of Morlaix: full of iodine in Roscoff
BREAST, THE SAVAGE (FINISTÈRE)
The village of the Ile de Sein at high tide.
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The wind is all-powerful there, and its inhabitants have a strong soul.
Surrounded by
raging currents
, culminating at less than 10 meters above sea level, this tiny piece of bare land not far from the Pointe du Raz flirts with one of the most dangerous sea passages in the world.
Under its austere surroundings, Sein seduces with its
incredible light
bathing the colorful facades of the fishermen's houses.
We explore its narrow streets, we sink into the contemplation of the Iroise Sea from the heights of the
Goulenez lighthouse
, before a last bike ride along its stone walls at sunset.
How to get there ?
The Penn ar Bed company (pennarbed.fr; adult round trip €32 or €38 depending on the season, child round trip €22) provides the crossing in one hour from the Sainte-Évette slipway, 3 km from Audierne .
Weekly service between Camaret and Sein from mid-June to mid-September, as well as between Sein and Brest (1h30 crossing).
Where to sleep and eat?
Housed in a large pink house, the Hôtel d'Ar Men (hotel-armen.net; double room €78-98) is the only one on the island;
you can eat fish and seafood in an old-fashioned atmosphere, but you can also sit down at the Tatoon before having a drink at Chez Bruno.
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Southern Brittany: Groix, Arz, Houat
If you already know the Glénan archipelago, Belle Île, or Île aux Moines, it's time to embark on their more confidential little sisters.
All located in Morbihan, these three havens of peace will seduce the tender-hearted sea bass in you.
GROIX, THE AUTHENTIC (MORBIHAN)
Like an impression of the Caribbean at the Grands Sables beach in Groix.
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Facing Lorient, Groix is the second largest island in Brittany.
Famous for its
convex Grands Sables beach
, it was also the first French tuna port at the beginning of the 20th century.
From this glorious past there remains a marked - and friendly - cultural identity!
-, croquignolets
fishing villages
,
canneries
and
fish smokers
, which delight visitors.
The poetry of the Groisillon landscapes (creeks with clear waters as in the cove of Port Saint-Nicolas, garnet-colored beach of Sables-Rouges, alleys of Port-Tudy, etc.) can be savored by bike, on the 40 km of paths that criss-cross the 'Isle.
How to get there ?
In 45 minutes from Lorient, with Compagnie Océane (compagnie-oceane.fr; single adult ticket €17.50-19, single child ticket €11).
Where to eat and sleep?
The Ty Mad hotel, open from February 11, 2023 (tymad.com; double room from €88) also offers attractive apartments in summer.
We love the adjoining pub-restaurant, Les Garçons du Port, for its warm atmosphere and organic wine list.
What to do with the children?
We take them to the Parcabout, a magical acrobatic course in the trees created by a traditional seaman (parcaboutgroix.com).
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ARZ, THE FAROUCHE (MORBIHAN)
The Berno tide mill on the Ile d'Arz in the Gulf of Morbihan in Brittany.
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The flat and peaceful Île d'Arz, nestled in the heart of the splendid Gulf of Morbihan, is frequented by a few insiders who prefer it to its neighbor Île aux Moines, which is very busy in summer.
Some
marshes
and meadows (kingdom of migratory birds), shaded beaches and
secret coves
, surround a pretty flowery village located 2 km from the port.
“Captain Island” has given the sea several dynasties of sailors, as evidenced by the
beautiful shipowners' houses in the town
, which also houses a touching 18th century church.
The 18 km
coastal path
that circles the island is a
great bike ride
(the rental companies can be found at the Béluré landing stage);
the picturesque Berno tide mill is one of the highlights.
How to get there ?
From the Vannes ferry terminal, with the Navix-Compagnie des Iles (navix.fr), La Compagnie du Golfe (compagnie-du-golfe.fr) and the Bateaux-bus du Golfe (ile-arz.fr) which all serve the island for the same price (from €23 - full adult price).
Also from Port-Navalo, Locmariaquer and Kerners with Le Passeur des Iles (passeurdesiles.com; one-way adult €14, one-way child €8), and from Baden with Izenah Croisières (izenah-croisieres.com; return adult €10 , round trip child €8).
Where to eat and have a drink?
At La Fontaine, after the charming hamlet of Penero: fresh, organic products, vegetarian dishes, and a very pleasant terrace.
HOUAT, THE WIZARD (MORBIHAN)
Houat, off the coast of Quiberon, with its wild nature and its 250 year-round inhabitants, is an unmissable island in southern Brittany.
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Off the coast of Quiberon, this
miniature island
covered in open moorland is ideal for disconnecting.
You can go around it on foot in a few hours by taking the superb coastal path which leads in particular to the
tip of En Tal
and its 19th century fort overlooking a convex beach.
No cars on this jewel lined with crystal clear water creeks, which lives mainly from artisanal fishing.
Its
Treac'h er Goured beach
, protected from the westerly winds and stretching in an arc for more than 2 km, is considered one of the most beautiful in Brittany.
How to get there ?
In 40 minutes from Quiberon with Compagnie Océane - 2 trips per day (compagnie-oceane.fr; one-way adult €17.50-19 depending on season, one-way child €13.50) or departing from Vannes, Port-Navalo , Locmariaquer and La Trinité-sur-Mer with the Navix-Compagnie des Iles (navix.fr; from €18.90, youth base rate between 13 and 25 years old).
Or sleep ?
Treat yourself to a night or two in the moor, facing the beach, in a charming Sibley tent (laboiteapoissons.fr; from May 15 to September 20, 2023; €68/night for 2 people, €98/night for 4 people).
Read alsoBrittany: the most beautiful megalithic sites in Morbihan
The islands accessible on foot at low tide, Brittany's other treasure
Passage to Berder Island, Larmor-Baden, Morbihan.
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Many "pebbles" (this is how the Bretons affectionately call their islands and islets) are accessible on foot at low tide;
you will find the times and the
tide coefficients
on maree.shom.fr, or in printed form in the captaincies, the press houses, and the tourist offices.
Do not hesitate to ask the locals for advice before starting your walk, to be sure not to find yourself stuck by the flood (a term indicating the rising sea).
Departing from
Saint Jacut-de-la-Mer
, in the Côtes-d'Armor, you reach the magnificent
Hébihens
, extending over 20 hectares, to enjoy its heavenly beaches (count 6.5 km round trip).
Once a year, in August, we hike there at night by torchlight: magical!
(information from the Tourist Office).
Displaying roughly the same area, the bucolic
island of Berder
, in the Gulf of Morbihan, is connected to
Larmor-Baden
by an 80 m long causeway, which opens at low tide. Very wooded, it hides a 19th century manor and species exotic trees;
we go around it in an hour.
Opposite the Finistère port of
Carantec
, in the bay of Morlaix,
Île Callot
is also connected to land by a submersible causeway (count 20 mins walk), which you can even take by car.
Don't miss the charming sailors' chapel overlooking a pretty beach, or the northern tip of the island, where the view extends as far as Roscoff.
[This article has been updated with 2023 rates.]
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