Between the spring-summer 2023 men's and haute couture shows, which ended on January 26 in Paris, Parisian high jewelry week presented collections of dazzling technicality.
With a few rare exceptions, flowers and animals have disappeared.
Narrative jewels give way to graphic pieces that give pride of place to stones.
In the register of the spectacular, Graff presented twenty jewels including, in exclusivity, an imposing necklace of extraordinary flamboyance.
In the center of a 100-carat mosaic of pear-shaped, emerald, oval, round and baguette-cut diamonds, sparkles a D-Flawless oval specimen (the finest quality) of more than 50 carats... more jaded.
Chopard also presented exceptional stones cut but not mounted: green diamonds,
Paraiba blue lagoon tourmalines, yellow sapphires from Ceylon, heart-shaped emeralds... were offered naked, only accompanied by the design of the jewel in the making.
To discover in real life on the
red carpet
of the next Cannes Film Festival which remains the highlight of the Swiss house.
Graphic Energy
The “graphic energy” released by the 30 pieces of the Spirit Chapter II Louis Vuitton collection is due, among other things, to the omnipresence of the V in the LV monogram.
Letter repeated and multiplied to infinity which comes in mirror-polished gold triangles, paved with diamonds or even in chevron patterns.
The chevron motif is also found on several pieces of Cartier jewelry, including a fully articulated short diamond necklace.
Chaumet and Courbet (specialist in synthetic diamonds presenting a piece of fine jewelery for the first time) also play the card of abstraction.
Chaumet deploys two lines of diamonds that gracefully intertwine to symbolize the link, its favorite motif.
On his Constellation set, Courbet stages a Big Bang of synthetic diamonds around a 5-carat stone.
A metaphor for his arrival on Place Vendôme which will further fuel discussions on the subject!
A few exceptions: figurative jewelry
As for the figurative exceptions, we obviously find panthers in the third part of Cartier's Beautés du Monde collection.
Her favorite animal is there, one majestically reclining on an oval Zambian emerald weighing more than 24 carats, the other standing amid balls of blue jadeite and yellow sapphires.
We also discovered the new organic creations, butterflies, cardamom flowers, violets entirely paved with colored stones by Cindy Chao, an Asian designer of Taiwanese origin recently promoted to Knight in the Order of Arts and Letters for the excellence of her work done in France.
With the Dearest Dior collection and its 77 creations, Victoire de Castellane remains faithful to lace, flowers and the aristocratic spirit of the grand siècle with, in particular, ravishing ornate crown rings.
For its part, Buccellati continues to mimic silk thanks to the work of carving gold on its Macri models.
Now in "half-measure" to use the vocabulary of couture, they can be customized by the customer: everyone can choose their stones and the colors of gold.
High Jewelry Collections January 2023
In images, in pictures
See the slideshow15 photos
See the slideshow15 photos
Transformable trend
At David Morris, the Starlight multi-row necklace (alternating elements set with rose-cut diamonds and pear-shaped diamonds) can be cut in two.
At Cartier, emerald and opal pendants become brooches.
At Bulgari, the Diamonds necklace can be worn in 9 different ways with one or two chains, a tassel and a medallion that become brooches, etc.
The solitaire adorned with a brilliant-cut diamond of more than 3.06 carats D-Flawless by De Beers can be "dressed" by two other more "casual" rings, all of which can also be worn separately.
As for the rosette medallion presented by Rouvenat, a 19th century jeweler brilliantly revived last year, it is enlivened by fine tassels ending in aquamarine briolettes: thanks to the opening system of the petals, they are removed,
Like A Queen by Boucheron
The highlight of this Parisian jewelry week was the Like a Queen collection by Claire Choisne for Boucheron.
A collection based on the art deco aquamarine double clip brooch purchased in 1937 by the Duke of Kent.
The latter offered it a few years later to Princess Elizabeth, the future Queen of England, for her 18th birthday.
Very attached to this jewel, the sovereign wore it many times until the end of her reign.
The graphic motif is at the center of this collection: worked vertically, in mini or maxi, in colored stones, in diamonds... That is to say 18 genderless jewels (earrings, necklaces, cuffs, clips) complementary, modular and interchangeable.
Worn on Courrèges total looks in blue, raspberry pink, red, they form an ultimate tribute.
Chart,
