Who to succeed
Virgil Abloh
as head of men's collections at Louis Vuitton?
The question has been driving industry discussions since the unexpected death of the American in November 2021. If the trunk maker took the time to find the right profile, multiplying since the collections designed by the studio and collaborators (notably Colm Dillane, of KidSuper, last January), she finally chose who was going to embody the Vuitton man: the American pop star
Pharrell Williams
.
Just two weeks after his arrival at the head of the flagship of LVMH, Pietro Beccari has therefore signed what could well be the contract of the century.
The Italian leader and the artist have had a relationship for a decade, and they have already mentioned this project during their many conversations.
But, prowess, the negotiations remained secret until the last moment.
The appointment is expected to be followed by further announcements by summer at Louis Vuitton under Beccari's new reign - at Dior, during its stint from 2018 to 2022, the fashion house has seen more than record growth.
At first glance, this choice may seem surprising.
But this close friend of Virgil Abloh, renowned producer (for Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake, in particular) and star musician whether with his group N*E*R*D or solo (the hit “Happy”
is
him , “
Get Lucky
», Daft Punk, too), is a jack-of-all-trades.
In 2020, her cosmetics line, Humanrace, had been a great success in the United States, repeated a year later when it was launched in France.
He rubbed shoulders with both the world of contemporary art (thanks to collaborations with the artist Kaws and the gallery of Emmanuel Perrotin) and the world of luxury.
And he already knows the house well: he had already collaborated with Louis Vuitton during the Yves Carcelle era, in 2005 on sunglasses and in 2008, on a jewelry collection entitled Blason - Pietro Beccari was then Marketing and Communication Director there. .
Above all, this entrepreneur masters the world of ready-to-wear, since he founded, with the Japanese Nigo (artistic director of Kenzo) his own brand Billionaire Boys Club and a line of shoes,
Ice Cream.
A success with younger generations that Louis Vuitton should therefore always seek to woo.
Close to Virgil Abloh, Karl Lagerfeld and Rei Kawakubo
Accustomed to the front row of parades, Williams, 49, goes to the other side of the mirror.
And in another dimension.
This regular of collaborations bridging streetwear and luxury (his sneakers co-signed with Adidas and Chanel, in 2017, are now worth more than €10,000 on the second-hand market) now takes the reins of a juggernaut, flagship of the group LVMH.
Close to Karl Lagerfeld as to Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, a style icon sensitive to know-how, he wears Chanel-branded women's tweed jackets as well as Tiffany & Co. bespoke glasses, vintage as well as cutting-edge young designers like Cactus Plant Flea Market.
But it is difficult to know what identity his creations for Vuitton will bear, even as the
Pharrell Williams for her holistic cosmetics brand, Humanrace Humanrace
For Louis Vuitton, the question of the difficult succession of Virgil Abloh took time.
We had to find the right profile.
And certainly not an ersatz of the American visionary, despite the rumors which notably evoked the names of Jerry Lorenzo (from Fear of God), Telfar Clemens or even Heron Preston.
Because Virgil Abloh was more than just a creator (which his detractors have often criticized him for): he was a pop culture character.
As is Pharrell Williams.
