The eye makeup from the Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 show captured all eyes at New York Fashion Week this Friday, February 10.
In particular, the spectacular Black Swan
spirit eyeliner strokes
that perfected the “Gothic fairy tale” aesthetic of this ready-to-wear collection.
The makeover revealed not one, but six different graphic lines.
"We really wanted to make a strong and daring make-up [with a] linear eyeliner", explains make-up artist James Kaliardos backstage at the show to our colleagues from the American magazine
Fashionista
.
To achieve these perfectly symmetrical "cat's eyes" with an ultra-precise and sharp point, James Kaliardos and the Nars team used an unusual trick.
They first drew a comma on each side of the eye with an eyebrow pencil.
This gesture thus makes it possible to create in advance a form which serves as an approximate model.
Then, all you have to do is fill it in with a black liquid eyeliner to refine the result.
Read alsoLined, inverted, colored, graphic: 4 new ways to wear eyeliner
Fewer errors
James Kaliardos says this method is “really useful” backstage at the runways, but it can certainly also be useful for those who are not professional makeup artists and who have trouble harmonizing their eyeliner wings.
"People's [faces] are usually asymmetrical, so to find the right balance, you sometimes have to adapt," continues the expert.
Preparing the ground beforehand with an eyebrow pencil would thus ensure fewer errors and irregularities when applying eyeliner.
Fun fact, conversely, many make-up artists use brown eyeliner to flesh out the brows by creating “faux hairs” with more precision.
The art of diverting products for successful make-up.
In video: the smoky-eye from the Dior Haute Couture spring-summer 2023 show