On the Mexican island of Holbox the word paradise was never so precise

Holbox is an elongated island 40 kilometers long by 2 kilometers wide located to the north of the Mexican Yucatan peninsula that lives committed to maintaining the aura of paradise evoked by its 34 kilometers of beach, its unpaved streets and a growth of tourism, for the moment, controlled.

And that its letter of introduction could not be more attractive: endless postcard beaches, a charming fishing village perfect for disconnecting, the possibility of enjoying the unique phenomenon of bioluminescence or swimming with the whale shark.

To get to the island, it only takes a 25-minute ferry ride from the port of Chiquilá, some 140 kilometers from the tourist town of Cancún.

This is the time it takes to cross the Yalahau Lagoon, also known as the Conil Lagoon.

This body of water, once home and refuge for pirates, is home to the protected islet of Isla de Pájaros, known for its flocks of flamingos, and Isla de la Pasión, surrounded by an attractive sandbar that delights visitors .

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Although, yes, Holbox does not lack beaches to boast of and they all live up to the grandiose adjectives that are usually added to Caribbean sandbanks, with all that this implies: fine white sand, warm and crystalline water that takes meters to cover, small

with hammocks and swings and street vendors well stocked with coconut water and sweet mangoes that they prepare on the spot.

The further away from town, either towards Punta Mosquito, to the north, or towards Punta Cocos, to the south, the more wild the sands will be and the possibility, completely true, of being absolutely alone will increase.

And a plus: the sargassum barely arrives here.

Essences of a fishing village

Holbox continues to maintain the essence of a small fishing village, although today it lives largely on tourism.

On its unpaved streets, golf carts —the usual vehicle for moving around the island— coexist in chaotic harmony, bicycles and pedestrians.

While the walls are dotted at times with careful murals and other times with striking facades painted in bright colors.

Its nerve center is the Central Square where the sports fields coexist, a stage with sporadic performances and street stalls that during the day offer the most popular excursions and at night they sell marquesitas, a kind of strangely addictive crunchy crepe.

Tourists walking in the streets of Holbox Island.

M. van der Meer (Arterra/Universal Images/Getty Images)

Around it is one of the liveliest restaurants on the island, Roots, a pizzeria with live music.

Although if you want to eat the much mentioned lobster pizza, in the Edelyn restaurant they boast of being its creators and in La Pinsa they raise the proposal with the octopus pizza.

For those who don't want to spend a day without tacos, Taco Queto is the local option par excellence.

Barracuda is in charge of seafood and fresh fish, and vegans will not tire of visiting Arte Sano;

Hopefully, while you dine you will be able to watch the races and curious glances of the raccoons that inhabit the island.

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Here the biggest fish in the world relaxes

If there is an illustrious inhabitant of Holbox, with the permission of raccoons, flamingos or pelicans, that is, without a doubt, the whale shark, the largest fish in the world.

Absolutely harmless although imposing with its 12 meters on average, the whale shark visits the waters near the Mexican island between the months of May and September in search of its food, plankton.

To see them and swim with them it is necessary to hire an excursion (the price is around 170 euros per person, depending on the season and negotiating skills) with a certified guide, which includes snorkeling equipment, drinks and something to eat.

People swim next to a Whale Shark (Rhincodon typus) on June 11, 2019 in Isla Holbox, Quintana Roo state, Mexico.

- The huge fish, which is in danger of extinction, visits the Mexican Caribbean every year and is the hope for the island's inhabitants, who long for the return of tourists, chased away by the COVID-19 pandemic.

Photo byEDIER ROSADO CHERREZ (AFP / GETTY IMAGES)EDIER ROSADO CHERREZ (AFP / GETTY IMAGES) (AFP via Getty Images)

Finding these giants is not easy, although their size and the experienced eye of the guides help.

Normally, a boat trip of around two hours is usually necessary and, once located, a rigorous order is observed to jump into the water and thus not harass it.

It shouldn't need to be said, but obviously touching them or getting in the way of their swimming path is completely prohibited.

The technique is relatively simple: the group in the water remains and enjoys the experience while this impressive fish swims alongside them and when the whale shark advances, it will be time to return to the boat and make way for the next swimmers.

Although time is cruel: never a few minutes will pass so quickly.

Swim with a halo of light

The phenomenon of bioluminescence is produced by microorganisms that, thanks to an enzyme, convert their chemical energy into light.

It is truly appreciable only in a few and selected areas of the planet, and Holbox is one of them, especially between March and November.

The key is to find the darkest area —Punta Cocos is ideal for this— and the darkest night, so the new Moon is the best option.

Important point, it is essential to protect yourself from mosquitoes or you will regret it, a lot, the next day.

Aerial view of Punta Cocos on the island of Isla Holbox, MexicoGETTY IMAGES

Once the eyes have become accustomed to the blackness, it is time to enter the sea where an almost indescribable magic happens: the water lights up with each step and with each movement, the faster, the greater the brilliance.

Yes, it is true that the light can also be appreciated when breaking the few waves, but it will be a scenario at all compared to the experience of swimming causing a halo of light.

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