With 4000 km of tracks, Thailand has one of the most extensive rail networks in Southeast Asia.
From the capital Bangkok, the train takes travelers to the mountains of Chiang Mai in the north, the historic towns of Ayutthaya or Sukhothai and not far from the southern islands such as Phuket or Koh Samui.
Managed by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT), it is connected to three neighboring countries (Cambodia, Laos and Malaysia), making cross-border journeys possible.
However, the network is aging, with single-track lines that are hardly electrified.
This does not detract from the charm and comfort of the trains, close to European standards.
The opening of the new Bangkok Central Station (Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal) on January 19, 2023 marks the start of the modernization of Thailand's railways.
If high-speed line projects are under study, they will not see the light of day before 2032 with a first link planned between Bangkok and Laos, then in the longer term towards Malaysia and Singapore.
How much does a ticket cost ?
How to book them?
What to expect on board in terms of comfort and services?
Our complete guide to prepare your rail journeys in the Land of Smiles.
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What are the routes?
The plan of the Thai railway network and lines in project.
State Railway of Thailand (SRT)
The rail network is articulated around four lines which have Bangkok as their starting point (see enlarged map here):
North:
to Chiang Mai via Ayutthaya, Lop Buri and Lampang;
Northeast:
to Ubon Ratchathani and Nong Khai (border with Laos);
East:
to Aranyaprathet (border with Cambodia);
South:
to Padang Besar (border with Malaysia) via Hua Hin, Surat Thani (starting point for bus and ferry transfers to the islands, including Phuket and Koh Samui) and Hat Yai.
In addition to these lines, there are
tourist trains
that run day trips from Bangkok every weekend for just a few euros.
One goes to the seaside resorts of
Hua Hin and Suan Son
, the other, as far as
Sai Yok Noi
, criss-crosses the sadly "Death Railway", the construction of which under the Japanese occupation was resulted in the death of 100,000 prisoners.
More occasionally, the SRT organizes rail cruises for the day or over several days on board historic trains.
At a standstill with the Covid-19, the
luxury train
Eastern & Oriental Express should resume its cruises between Bangkok and Singapore via Malaysia in the course of 2023, as announced on its Belmond website (which also operates the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express).
Before the stoppage of traffic, 2-day / 3-night tours were offered from €2,900 per person.
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Our travel guide from Bangkok to the islands, via Chiang Mai
Since January 19, 2023, almost all long-distance trains leave from the
new central station of Krung Thep Aphiwat
(name to type during your research), north of the Thai capital.
The historic Hua Lamphong station is not abandoned, however, since it remains the starting point for tourist trains.
The two stations are connected by the blue metro line (MRT) and by a free bus for anyone with a train ticket.
What comfort to expect and at what price?
A night train with the latest trains at Chiang Mai station.
Jean-Marc De Jaeger / Le Figaro
Thai trains have three comfort classes.
The
3rd class
carriages , fitted with seats, have fans and their windows can be opened – ideal for taking pictures of the landscapes.
The berths are in the
2nd class
trains which have air conditioning.
Finally,
1st class
only exists in the form of a sleeping car with a private cabin on night trains.
Unlike European night trains, the berths are arranged in the direction of travel and are distributed on either side of a central corridor.
They offer more space and more privacy thanks to the presence of curtains at each seat.
The lower berths, which are wider and located in front of the windows, are a few euros more expensive than the upper berths.
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A sleeper car on a night train Chiang Mai - Bangkok.
On request, the staff brings the two seats together to form the lower bunk and installs the mattress, blanket and curtains.
Jean-Marc De Jaeger / Le Figaro
The price of the tickets being fixed, it remains the same regardless of the time of booking.
However, on the same line, pricing can vary significantly depending on the equipment used and therefore the timetable chosen, the most modern trains being the most expensive.
These, called “CNR” after the Chinese manufacturer, were introduced in 2017 and are to be preferred if you want maximum comfort.
They are chartered to the following services: n°9/10 (North line), n°23/24 (East line), n°25/26 (North-East line) and n°31/32 (South line).
For a trip between Bangkok and Chiang Mai or between Bangkok and the south of the country (Surat Thani, Hat Yai...), count between 20 and 30 € per berth and around 40 € per person in a private cabin.
This costs between 55 and 70 € if it is occupied by a single person.
Prices for overnight train journeys are detailed on the Thai Train Guide website.
In the eight trains mentioned above, the
dining car
was returned to service in December 2022 after being closed for three years due to Covid-19.
It will be reinstated in the other night trains by April 2023. Count less than €5 for a meal tray prepared on board with a bottle of water and around €3 for breakfast.
In any case, it is always possible to buy a meal from the traditional street vendors either on board or on the quay during stops.
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Where to buy tickets?
The home page of the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) reservation site.
Screenshot www.dticket.railway.co.th
The best is to book directly on the
official SRT website
: dticket.railway.co.th.
It is possible to select the desired seat, berth or cabin on a plan.
Tickets are sent directly by email after online payment.
For long-distance lines, sales open 30 days before the departure date at 8:30 a.m. local time.
Cancellation fees are 20% of the price paid more than three days before departure or 50% less than three days.
In case of modification, you will be charged between 20 and 50 baht (i.e. between 0.50 and 1.50 €).
Tourist trains can only be booked on this site.
Of course, buying your ticket from
a station ticket office
remains an option that we recommend especially for short journeys decided at the last minute.
Another solution: go through an
online travel agency
.
The most popular in Asia, 12Go Asia, also allows you to book trips by bus, plane, ferry or taxi.
Sales open 60 days in advance.
“
These are not confirmed ticket sales.
However, this has the advantage that the minute these tickets go on sale, their agents will be in line to buy it
,” details the Thai Train Guide website.
If the agency does not manage to obtain a seat on the train and the comfort class requested, it offers another timetable or reimburses the difference in price.
Note that when booking via 12Go Asia, the online ticket is not sent by email: they must be collected from an agency.
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Our advices
In day and night trains, bring a little woolen jacket given the excessive air conditioning.
(1st class sleeping car, private compartment.) Jean-Marc De Jaeger / Le Figaro
In 1st and 2nd class, the air conditioning tends to run full blast all the time.
In day and night trains, bring a small woolen jacket.
None of the trains have Wi-Fi and only the newer ones have electrical outlets.
For long trips, remember to download your movies, music or podcasts and bring an external battery.
If you wish to travel in a private cabin, it is better to book as soon as sales open 30 days before departure.
Popular with tourists and very limited in number (only 12 per departure), they quickly fill up, especially on the Bangkok - Chiang Mai line.
We strongly recommend that you consult the Thai Train Guide site and follow the Twitter account of its author, Richard Barrow.
This expatriate Canadian teacher is very on the lookout for railway news (but not only) in Thailand and more broadly in Southeast Asia.
Another source of information: the page dedicated to Thailand on the site seat61.com, edited by British railroader Mark Smith.
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