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London Fashion Week: a new dawn in fashion


This season, London designers are dancing to the beat of their own drum. A week of shows full of personality.


Think London Fashion Week, bursts of creativity, traffic-stopping performance venues, luminous front rows and expertly crafted viral moments.

Fashion week ran from February 17-20 and the energy was felt.

The headlining act is undoubtedly Daniel Lee's Burberry debut, anticipating a very British comeback and revival of the logo.

Now let's think about Roksanda Ilinčić.

The Serbian-born staunch Londoner has used, in recent seasons, before and after the pandemic, the capital's most interesting art venues as the backdrop for her voluminous collections.

For Autumn/Winter 2022, the spacious entrance hall of Tate Britain was the venue of choice, and last September, guests walked past American artist Theaster Gates' version of the Serpentine Pavilion.

16 Arlington-Burberry-Priya Ahluwalia.

However, fall/winter 2023 saw the designer opt for something more intimate, more tactile for those in attendance at Claridge's, the historic Mayfair hotel, on Saturday afternoon.

"I loved the intimacy and emotions that were created in Theaster Gates' Serpentine Pavilion space during my last show," Ilinčić tells ELLE UK of her September show.

"I wanted to continue this narrative."

Now, this means something even more introspective, with the decision to scale down so that "guests sit closer to the pieces to see and appreciate the fabrics as they pass by."

Another designer who feels the same way is Molly Goddard.

This season, the designer will change the spacious sports pavilion that she usually uses to display her collections for something even more intimate.

Like Roksanda, the intention behind it is to focus on the clothes themselves.

And these two examples aren't the only ones being marked down for fall/winter 2023.

Molly Goddard

Chic hyper-labels like The Row and Alaïa, where creative director Pieter Mulier recently invited the press to his royal home in Antwerp, exemplify the pursuit of this intimacy.

While it could usher in a level of exclusivity and elitism for which the fashion industry is often criticized, it will also take the spotlight off the 'Instagram photo' motif that has so often driven creative decisions in recent years. last years.

This movement for some does not eliminate the desire for a show for others.

For some brands, this season marks a change in their showcasing process – they're moving up a notch to reflect a growing business and respected reputation.

Marco Capaldo's 16Arlington is bound to be a case in point.

The designer who has had nothing less than a stellar SS23 is ready to return to his favorite place, where he has shown himself for the past two seasons, but with a completely different take on space.

Once again, it's "privacy" he's talking about when he talks about the setup.

One can't help but feel sorry for PR as guest lists dwindle but reputations flourish.

Priya Ahluwalia is another designer upping the ante.

"This season's show feels different to me," she tells ELLE UK.

“I'm introducing Ahluwalia shoes and accessories for the first time and it's been great to be able to direct every element of a look.

The show itself has some performative elements, which is something we haven't done before.'

Designers must be bold, sticking to their vision and the way they choose to display it.

It's set to keep attendees on their toes with a gentle shake that's sure to prioritize personal passion and ultimately business acumen.

Perhaps Ilinčić best summed up what is needed for this season: "I think it's very important to have your own path and the courage to execute it."


look also

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Source: clarin

All news articles on 2023-02-22

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