The Michelin Guide surprised everyone by announcing the withdrawal, Monday evening, of their third star to Guy Savoy at the Hôtel de la Monnaie (Paris) and at the Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau (La Rochelle).
A thunderclap to which the two leaders did not react in the same way.
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Guy Savoy told AFP on Monday:
“So far I have only had the best moments in my career.
Tonight, I'm thinking of the teams and I'm going to talk to them tomorrow.
We lost the match this year but we will win it again next year.
The La Rochelle chef told him through his wife, who manages the communication of his restaurants, that he would not comment on the Michelin decision.
"Palpable emotion"
To justify these unexpected demotions, Gwendal Poullennec, the boss of the guide, defended himself:
“These are exceptional restaurants, so you can imagine that these are decisions that are carefully considered, supported by numerous visits from our inspectors and inspectors throughout the year
.
The chiefs were informed of the sanction during the day on Monday: Coutanceau in person and Savoy by telephone.
“The emotion was palpable.
I would like to salute the elegance of the reception of this news by the leaders and the dignity.
They are ready to move forward, to set out again to conquer the star
”, greeted Mr. Poullennec, in this strategic position since September 2018.
Read the fileGuide Michelin 2023: starred restaurants
The shock is particularly harsh for Guy Savoy who has held three Michelin stars since 2002. Since 2016, he has also been awarded the title of “best restaurant in the world” according to the aggregator La List.
“Nothing in the List data, customer feedback, articles, reviews, broadcasts or comments, suggests that the quality of the Guy Savoy restaurant has declined this year.
On the contrary, each year more, the notoriety of the cuisine of Guy Savoy exceeds Paris and France”
, commented to AFP Philippe Faure, founder of the List.
For Christopher Coutanceau, the pill is also bitter: he had obtained his 3rd macaron in 2020 only.
Its cuisine, local and attentive to marine resources, had also been the subject of a green star for sustainability, a subject on which the Red Guide says it is sensitive.
23 more demotions
Three restaurants also lost their second star: the Alpaga table in Megève, Jean-Luc Tartarin in Le Havre and the Restaurant Michel Sarran in Toulouse.
The Toulouse chef reacted on Tuesday morning on BFMTV:
“It's a moment in the restaurant that is difficult to live with.
There are people who support me, who love me, it's not Michelin who will change that.
Yesterday I admit I had a few tears
.
On the side of the first stars, the balance sheet is heavier, with 20 tables which are demoted.
These announcements took place exactly a week before the 2023 star ceremony, organized on Monday March 6 in Strasbourg and scheduled for 10 a.m.
