The zeitgeist suits (finally) the refined classicism of Hubert de Givenchy.
And that, Matthew Williams, the artistic director of
, has understood.
After years of unrestrained maximalism and Instagrammable fashion, women are returning to a more concrete, understated, embodied wardrobe.
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What are these perfect coats, these jackets with basques, these ascot blouses, these exquisite cocktail dresses that the American sends on the podium, Thursday afternoon, at the Invalides.
The first passages are of the precision of a goldsmith (or a couturier).
Jackets and overcoats are cut
just enough (and fitted with a clever set of buttons), the hems of the dresses are just right (at the ankle or mid-thigh), the transparencies controlled.
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If this locker room is bourgeois, the look is young and cool.
And this is the added value that Williams brings to the Parisian house.
The native of Illinois, former acolyte of Lady Gaga, gives a casualness of pop star to this Parisienne in pumps (of neon foal), with smoky makeup.
If we empower women, the planet and our societies will be better off
Gabriela Hearst, artistic director at Chloé
A few silhouettes with asserted "street credibility", superimposition of hoodies, woolen skins and aged leathers, cargo pants and punk kilts, the Voyou (it-bag launched this winter) worn on the shoulder, amplify the message.
It wasn't necessarily necessary.
Of all my collections for Chloé, this is my favorite
,” says artistic director Gabriela Hearst with unfeigned enthusiasm, a few minutes before her fall-winter 2023-2024 show.
In the previous seasons that I see as chapters, I have already discussed the methods of regenerating the planet and the scientific advances related to fusion, clean and abundant energy that can wean us off fossil fuels.
This time, I wanted to convey a message of female emancipation.
All the studies show: if we empower women, the planet and our societies will be better off
Read alsoBalmain and Chloé, a creation focused on tomorrow
She also quotes an article from
Climate change multiplies the threats, but women can multiply the solutions.
To give substance to her ecofeminist demands, the Uruguayan sought inspiration in Italian Renaissance painting - "
we are entering a new renaissance
", that of Artemisia Gentileschi in particular.
On the podium, the cloakroom is far from literal despite an inspirational wall covered with paintings by this 17th century Roman woman from the school of Caravaggio.
The silhouette is therefore Renaissance, with its marked waist and gigot sleeves, but also very refined.
Coats in shearling, patchwork of suede and nappa leather (sourced with the eco-responsible organization Leather Working Group), flat gaucho boots and double-breasted suits modernize this beautifully crafted wardrobe.
An adorable two-tone basket dress goes by, a harlequin check trench coat, a black crochet knit sheath.
This baroque heroine has everything of an Upper East Side lady, with an environmental conscience to boot.
A strange path for the label of Gaby Aghion, incarnation of the Parisienne since its creation in 1952. But why not.