One month after his
Schiaparelli haute couture
which earned him senseless accusations (his lion-headed dresses would have been, according to some on social networks, an apology for the hunting trophy), Daniel Roseberry presents in the salons of the Hôtel d'Évreux his very first parade ready -to wear.
On the place of each guest, a text (very well) written by the artistic director in which he returns to the first years of Elsa Schiaparelli: "
Her career beginnings were dazzling thanks to her fancy trompe-l'oeil knitwear quite revolutionary.
Pure sportswear, practical and as easy to put on as it is to take off.
»
Or again: “
This season (which is intended to be a complete wardrobe) is a response to our global clientele, who have clearly indicated that they expect something powerful and unique from us.
“Calm” doesn’t work for our female clients
.”
Read alsoFashion Week: Daniel Roseberry, Elsa's new eyes
A wardrobe for everyday life but intended for women who are anything but ordinary… The exercise is tricky.
The American therefore decided to revisit the feminine "essentials" - the poplin shirt, the knit sweater, the suit, the parka... - and its accessories - bags and jewelry - in the light of the house's surrealist codes. .
Enamel buttons like miniature hand-sculptures decorate the jackets with their arched builds.
Elsa's signature keyhole appears cutout on the navel of a long black jersey dress.
A patent calfskin suit displays a golden brass measuring tape on the lapels of the jacket.
The boots draw the foot in trompe-l'œil with its toes as if molded in gold... The moment is graceful and each piece perfectly executed, but the allure, demonstrative, sometimes lacks subtlety - the quilted satin down jacket in a hip style -hop is making fun of a bling client.
Roseberry has managed the feat of making this house, long remained in the formalin of the 1930s, a star of the red carpets - recently, Beyoncé in a corset dress for the last Grammys and Rihanna in a draped velvet bustier at the Golden Globes.
He still has to find the tone to breathe modernity into his ready-to-wear.
The Texan achieves this particularly well when he revisits American workwear, like this
Canadian tuxedo
in Japanese raw denim with his cool chic, Schiap and contemporary work jacket and cowboy jeans.
The
white
club
Attention Vincennes, the fashion caravan is coming!
Friday morning, the procession of black sedans heads for the fortified castle elected by Jonathan Anderson, the artistic director of
Loewe
, to erect a huge white box in its courtyard.
The designer who refuses any first degree prefers to the burden of history, the false neutrality of this "
white cube
".
“
I like the intensity of this box which reminds me of
Quad
de Beckett or Mohamed Ali in the boxing ring.
There is no contradiction from outside, you are forced to look at the clothes.
»
Read alsoFashion Week: in the wonderland of Loewe
Once again, Anderson advances, on the crest line, between the conceptual and the sensual, between clothing reduced to its simplest expression (a tank top, shorts, a rectangular dress, etc.) and the engineering of materials and the impression.
Blurred colors and patterns "
inspired by Richter's painting
" spread across the almost impalpable silk.
The plumage of a white sweater and electric blue Bermuda shorts (worn with loose boots - future best-sellers!) camp an ultra-contemporary silhouette but at the same time charged with an arty strangeness.
A leather chasuble is raised on the side by a chain;
a fleece coat has the profile of a basket dress.
Today, I embrace the idea of bringing to life a historic leather house that manufactures in Spain
Jonathan Anderson, artistic director of Loewe
The knit pieces are glued to the skin like real stickers.
A jersey dress hugs the bust like a soft camisole.
Of course, the knitted cardigans and the sublime brushed suede overcoat are even more “solvable” in life.
But the designer knows how to subtly twist reality without ever being above ground.
We find ourselves finding this molded leather shirt in lavender blue trompe-l'oeil "normal", the purity brings the avant-garde closer.
More surprisingly, he renews the exercise of the bag, with new giant shopping bags and hobos under the influence of the 1970s because they are inspired by the archives.
"
When I joined Loewe just ten years ago, I initially rejected this heritage
," admits Jonathan Anderson.
But today, I embrace the idea of bringing to life a historic leather house that manufactures in Spain.
Something rare in luxury… and we are proud of it!
In recent seasons, the Northern Irishman has occasionally lost himself in his surreal references.
This time, also relying on heritage, he anchors his experiments in a more tangible present.
“
Building a language is a double-edged sword.
How to reinforce this language while avoiding being trapped in it?
This next winter collection is the best answer.
