Does spaghetti bolognese really exist?

“Spaghetti Bolognese, so common in other countries (

), are a disastrous North American invention that goes against our traditions.

They don't exist, they are pure contradiction”, they told me with a smile in the Osteria Bottega, in the Italian city of Bologna.

“Spaghetti belongs to the family of dry pasta, typically Neapolitan, originating from the south of the country.

And bolognese is not a sauce, but a pork and beef ragù (

),

that is to say, a stew that originally did not have tomato, just as we prepare it here.

In Bologna, the ragù accompanies

, it appears in lasagna and other fresh egg pasta, including stuffed ones, never with dry pasta”, Valentino Rizo and Giuseppe de Michele, chef and head waiter, respectively, of this restaurant confirmed to us. nice place.

Nicoletta Negrini, a native of Bologna and table companion, lacked time to add some details.

“In Italy there are two types of pasta: the fresh ones that originated in the surroundings of Bologna, typical of the north;

and the dry ones, typical of Naples.

The preparation of fresh pasta has always been a matter for women, while in Naples it is a task for men.

At the same time as a geographical delimitation, it is a cultural border.

In Bologna, due to the climatic conditions, the wheats are weak, soft grained and need egg protein to strengthen themselves.

Soft dough that the women kneaded daily with a wooden rolling pin (

).

Since we were girls, we have all grown up with this tradition, ”she explained to me.

And she continued: “On the contrary, in Naples durum wheat is harvested which, once ground and mixed with water, requires arm strength to knead.

Men's job.

Pasta that were left to dry in the open air just like large blankets because in Naples they enjoy no less than six months of sun a year.

The typical northern egg pastas, especially if they are stuffed, are made and eaten that day.

Only occasionally the non-stuffed ones, like

,

or

we let them dry out.”

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The explanation had been so precise that I enjoyed in another way the succulent plate of

with

and freshly grated Parmesan that had just been placed on the table.

Does the

have tomato?

Arduous question.

Something similar to asking a Bilbao grandmother if the Biscayan sauce includes it or not.

For some, the controversy borders on the edge of heresy when this vegetable of American origin is named.

In the old Bolognese recipes made in a clay pot, the meat was not fried in oil, but in pork fat and, of course, there was no tomato, which purists reject outright.

However, times have played in their favor and in most cases they include minced pork and beef, pork belly, carrot, onion, celery, white wine, whole milk and tomato, as well as peppercorns and nutmeg.

Ingredients for a great stew.

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at the Camera di Comercio Industria Artigianato e Agricoltura di Bologna

.

Its purpose was none other than to defend one of the city's gastronomic landmarks.

Recipe that unfortunately for intransigents and purists has tomato sauce.

Little more to add.

Facade of the Camera di Comercio Industria Artigianato e Agricoltura di Bologna, where the authentic recipe for 'ragù alla bolognese' is deposited.

And the

?

They are identified with Bologna and derive from the cut into strips the width of a little finger from the lasagna blankets.

An ancient pasta whose invention is attributed to the chef Martino de Rossi, also called master Martino da Como, cook for the popes, author of the

and the most important European gourmet of the 15th century, according to Italian treatise writers.

Origins aside, in this Italian city they even sell t-shirts with a

significant

.

Warning and call to attention to clueless tourists who are unaware that among the gastronomic icons of Bologna the

appear on the podium .

Addresses of restaurants in Bologna

Osteria Bottega.

Vía Santa Caterina, 51. Telephone: +39 051 58 51 11.

Restaurant da Cesarina.

Via Santo Stefano, 19 b.

Telephone: +39 051 23 20 37.

Osteria del Capello.

Via de Fusari, 9 b.

Telephone: +39 051 19 98 68 87.

Follow me on Twitter: @JCCapel and on Instagram: @jccapel.

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